Fetishizing of Ethnic Cultures for a Western Audience

[ApertureRomance]

I'm also curious what you mean by that--there's a power dynamic that's pretty obvious when brown people bleach their skin, wear blue colored contact lenses, and bleach their hair blond...just saying in case that's what you meant. (Edit: but i'm suspecting that isn't what you meant...)

also, i'm still up in arms about this distinction that Western Culture is only white or distinct from local ethnic cultures in the West--it's not, especially in America. I honestly don't even know what it means outside of the context of westerners (including people of color) going elsewhere and having interactions w/ non-westerners.

The idea that hair and eye colour derive from culture is nonsensical. The predominent idea of beauty that is presented in the media is that of a caucasian one.

ps. This was in reference to the original post , not yours.

 

[ApertureRomance]

I also think that the reason why certain people feel uncomfortable hiwith others adopting"ethnic fashion" (a term which I don't particularly like) , is due to guilt. I'm not sure how to articulate it best but I mean when someone feels that someone else doesn't have the right to wear something because eg they're not religious or they're not actually African.

 

[lesypersound]

Guilt?

Perhaps...but I think that goes more w/ white ppl criticizing other white people. Even w/ that said, things that do have political/cultural significance like keffiyah scarves in my opinion should be worn with some kind of awareness of the scarf's related connotations/symbolism. but ppl will do what they do and pieces of clothing will be whatever they're going to be...just don't get all up in arms when other ppl call you a douchebag if you're wearing a che or mao shirt and you don't know a thing about the politics behind the two icons (or back Israeli policy 150% yet wear your trendy purple Urban Outfitters keffiyah scarf).
...or in this case, call US Vogue insensitive maybe even racist for that Keira Knightley - Return to Africa editorial. or the patronizing nature of having Kate Moss in black face and African solidarity advertisements in Germany last year.

 

[Fabulyss]

also, i'm still up in arms about this distinction that Western Culture is only white or distinct from local ethnic cultures in the West--it's not, especially in America. I honestly don't even know what it means outside of the context of westerners (including people of color) going elsewhere and having interactions w/ non-westerners.

I completely agree with this...

As someone previously mentioned rap music and rap/gangster culture -born in the WEST- has spread pretty vastly and thus, is highly fetishized in Eastern parts of the world.

Another example would be denim jeans, which according to wikipedia were invented in France but made popular in America. There are few places in the world now that don't wear blue jeans.

A third example would be American cigarettes brands that are often highly fetishized in particularly poor areas of Eastern countries (I learned this in an advertising class), it has to do with an affordable way to buy into the 'American lifestyle'.

I think it's correct to say that Western trends seem to have engulfed most parts of the world; isn't this the main complaint of those against globalization?

 

[Fontenrose]

jezebel

A reader writes: "I live in Bangladesh, where the nakshi kantha is a well-known form of folk art embroidery. Through 20 years of hard work, this art has been carefully revitalized in order to provide livelihoods to thousands of otherwise destitute Bangladeshi village women. The designs have been fully researched and documented by scholars, and the products are sold through various NGO retail outlets like Aarong and Kumudini. They are a source of deep pride among Bangladeshis... [and] while surfing the web late last night, I found myself on the Hermes website, looking at their scarves, when one particular design gave me a start. Are Hermes' 'artists' co-opting these indigenous designs for their own profit? Oh, wait, they did add some Hs to the design, so it must be original! Retail price of an actual silk nakshi kantha at an NGO outlet: $5-$15. Retail price of Hermes scarf: $355." (An authentic Bangladeshi nakshi kantha is on the left; an Hermes scarf is on the right.)

I would call this 'cultural appropriation' more than fetishizing, but the original scarf is lovely.

 

[Harpy]

The audience that will buy a 'Hermes Scarf' and a Nakshi Kantha scarf probably would never meet. If the designers at Hermes are inspired by Bangladeshi prints than it's a good thing. It really isn't as if the Luxury house is edging the Bangladeshi embroiders out of the market.

IMO, the Nakshi Kantha scarf is way better. It has a much more earthy quality to it. Also, I believe it is embroidered while the Hermes scarf is a mere print. Why any one would buy Hermes faux-Bangladeshi scarf is beyond me...*shrugs*

 

[dior_couture1245]

I find nothing wrong with being inspired by cultures of the world. I don't quite understand the reasoning behind those who disagree with this sentiment. Nobody complains when fashion designers are inspired by the romanticized vision of France (JPG HC SS 02), or England (McQueen FW 08), or America (Chanel RTW SS 08), Austria (Dior HC FW 04), etc...but then when a designer is inspired by a romanticized vision of an 'Eastern' culture, all of a sudden, we're entering sensitive waters.

Being inspired by the art/ culture/ history of China, Japan, India, New Zealand, the various countries of Africa, etc. has no malicious intent or hidden agenda behind it. It's simply being inspired by the beauty of a culture! Nothing more, nothing less. If anything, it's a celebration of richness of that specific culture, not exploiting it or trying to keep the stigma of 'exoticism' around that culture.

Here are some examples of my favorite fashion inspired by 'Ethnic' cultures of the world.

Maori/ Givenchy RTW SS 07

India/ Hermes SS 08

China/ Dior HC SS 03

South America Amazon/ Alexander McQueen SS 03

Southeast Asia/ JPG HC SS 08
http://www.***************/image/2008/W4/012320081705210840.jpghttp://www.***************/image/2008/W4/012320081705220546.jpg

Yemen/ John Galliano FW 04

(style/ elle)

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^one more
African/ JPG HC SS 05

(style)

 

[kahlilg]

^that's because through out history western cultures have been dominated over eastern societies. they took advantage of and are still taking advantage of eastern societies. so excuse the people who are a little hesitant when they see white societies fetishisizng and appropriating their culture.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^But, I strongly believe that designers are not trying to take advantage of Eastern cultures, or trying to keep them down beneath Western society by being inspired by the country's history and art and costume.

And since when do socialites go around disrespecting ethnic cultures with their clothes? I haven't seen Paris Hilton wearing any of those designs I just posted.

 

[Spike413]

^ That's a double standard though, kahlilg. Why should it be any more okay to fetishize Western cultures?

Your definition of Western society seems to include only white people descended from European cultures, which is only a fragment of it since for the most part the "Western World" isn't actually white. People all over the world think nothing of appropriating ponchos, mohawks, moccasins, turquoise jewelry etc...

Why should that be any more ok than taking beadwork from the Massai or Kimonos from Japan?

 

[kahlilg]

^^But, I strongly believe that designers are not trying to take advantage of Eastern cultures, or trying to keep them down beneath Western society by being inspired by the country's history and art and costume.

And since when do socialites go around disrespecting ethnic cultures with their clothes? I haven't seen Paris Hilton wearing any of those designs I just posted.

um... ok? idg the point about the socialites...

^ That's a double standard though, kahlilg. Why should it be any more okay to fetishize Western cultures?

Your definition of Western society seems to include only white people descended from European cultures, which is only a fragment of it since for the most part the "Western World" isn't actually white. People all over the world think nothing of appropriating ponchos, mohawks, moccasins, turquoise jewelry etc...

Why should that be any more ok than taking beadwork from the Massai or Kimonos from Japan?

Miscommunication between you and I. I feel the same way about moccasins etc... western world is used commonly (by people I know at least) to refer to the states as well as European countries. I don't think there is any difference between appropriating a kimono or appropriating ponchos.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^So nobody should be inspired by non-'white' cultures? Because that's offensive and colonialistc? Or is it that one should only be inspired by one's roots because that would ensure respect to that culture? So JPG can only be inspired by France, McQueen can only be inspired by England, Doo-Ri Chung can only be inspired by Korea, Riccardo Tisci can only be inspired by Italy, Yoji Yamamoto can only be inspired by Japan, Theyskens can only be inspired by Belgium, Viktor & Rolf can only be inspired by Holland, Tom Ford can only be inspired by America? I think that's extremely unrealistic given that we live in a global community where access to another culture is extremely easy. And you cannot expect a creative person to not be inspired by a beautiful culture, regardless of whether that culture is 'Western,' 'Eastern,' 'Southern' or 'Northern.'

 

[kahlilg]

No. It's fine to be influenced! In fact I encourage it! But that doesn't mean I shouldn't question the intentions of people appropriating different cultures since it might just come around to bite me in the *** like it has my ancestors.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^Well, that's certainly a pessimistic attitude!

 

[kahlilg]

^^Well, that's certainly a pessimistic attitude!

I try my hardest!

Can I say now that I think Givenchy (mens and womens) has done a great job right now about apprenticing non-American/European/White cultures.

style.com

in fact i kinda wrote a review of the mens line here - #878.

 

[kahlilg]

And honestly the only thing I'm asking for people to do is constantly question the world around them. So many things get swept up under the rug in society and I'm tired of it. Is that so hard to ask?

 

[Fontenrose]

Where garments are inspired by an aspect of a foreign costume that's fine, it gets a bit fuzzy when the entire scarf or necklace or skirt is swept up.

What about the Bangladesh nakshi kantha scarf and the Hermes version? Too close?What about wearing a rosary for fashion?

 

[kahlilg]

found this article pretty interesting
http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/10/03/style/rgypsy.php

 

[cheepmunk]

I think I just realized what bothers me about cultural appropriation, and it's that the original culture does not benefit at all from it. It is a White (usually North American/European) person taking something invented by another people and selling for profit as an original-ish item. It's like plagiarism.

I'm okay with Westerners buying/wearing a nakshi kantha scarf, or wearing clothes that are ethnically inspired. I think it's great that people have an appreciation for different cultures. But Hermes copying the scarf and then selling it at a ridiculous markup without any of that money going back to the people that came up with that beautiful pattern in the first place? Not cool.

Religious items are different, IMO, because they often have religious significance, and it's disrespectful to wear them when you don't believe in what they represent.