FS YSL- Gucci Nominees

[Lena]

shall we help our good friend Francois-Henri Pinault in his hard assignment choosing the new artistic directors, for YSL - Gucci ?

Suzy Menkes spils the news in HTI by naming Viktor&Rolf and Alexander Mc Queen for YSL while Vogue UK also names Nicholas Ghesquiere, not stating for which house though..

THE NEW FORD
.... Alexander McQueen's name was first up - after all, his eponymous label is already safely in the Gucci stable and he has a history of juggling more than one collection at a time (at Givenchy). But Nicholas Ghesquiere is also in the frame, with fashion insiders whispering that he has more than proved himself at Balenciaga, also owned by Gucci. So, could he be in line for a promotion? "It will go one of two ways," says Vogue's Harriet Quick. "Either they'll pick a high profile name or they will groom from within. It depends on what they feel is best for each brand and it is a really critical decision." ....
VogueUK

so, lets add our own nominations and form a FS poll

YSL
-Martin Grant
-Viktor & Rolf
-Ralph Rucci

Gucci
-Helmut Lang
-Narciso Rodrigues
-Hussein Chalayan
-Nicolas G.

 

[Scott]

YSL:
Martin Grant(first name to pop into my head)
Haider Ackermann



Gucci:
Boudicca designers Zowie Broach and Brian Kirby
Pascal Humbert(where is he? he must need a job right now)


Hmmmmm.....will think of more later

 

[Acid]

Chalayan is becoming head of Asprey fashion department so i dont think it will be him

 

[metal-on-metal]

Originally posted by Lena@Nov 5th, 2003 - 6:11 am
YSL
-Martin Grant
-Viktor & Rolf
-Ralph Rucci

Gucci
-Helmut Lang
-Narciso Rodrigues
-Hussein Chalayan
-Nicolas G.

I, personally, would love to see Alber Elbaz back at YSL. I thought his work there was absolutely incredible and totally in line with the sophisticated, strict chic of Yves himself.

But I doubt that would happen. Especially since he seems quite happy at Lanvin currently.

I vote for Viktor & Rolf or Olivier Theyskens at YSL. Both have proven themselves to be very capable of creating commercially-minded clothing that still satisfies a more avant garde customer.

As for Gucci, I don't think any of the designers mentioned are capable of creating that dripping-in-sex luxury vibe a la Tom. I mean, can anyone imagine Nicolas doing bustiers and mini skirts that AREN'T deconstructed or ironic? Unless, Gucci wants to go in totally new direction, in which case Nicolas and Helmut would be good choices.

 

[Scott]

I doubt any of them will want the positions. As far I see,they all seem quite content doing what they're already doing. Viktor & Rolf's new venture with L'Oreal and going commercial. Martin Grant even wouldn't divulge since he's begining to recieve very well with his own line. I don't think any of them would have the honest to god time for YSL or Gucci.

 

[*AndoraStar*]

Narciso Rodrigues FOR SURE..

 

[Meg]

I'm confused. Is YSL owned by the Gucci Group? Does this mean that he will quit designing at YSL as well? Oh I do hope so!

 

[Poison]

YSL:
Stella (don't like her but...)
Husein Chalayan
Alber Elbaz
Viktor&Rolf
GUCCI:
Allesandro dell'Aqcua
Narciso Rodriguez
Anna Masotti (from La Perla)

 

[Spacemiu]

Ysl

i coudl see Viktor and Rolf deffinetly


Gucci

I think rick owens would be perfect, may be roland mormet

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by mehg@Nov 5th, 2003 - 4:20 pm
I'm confused. Is YSL owned by the Gucci Group? Does this mean that he will quit designing at YSL as well? Oh I do hope so!

Yeah,YSL is part of Gucci. Actually,there was alot of controversy between Tom and Yves' partner Eric Berge(sp?)just as they acquired the label. I can't remember the details but apparently Tom didn't live up to his end of the bargain. Anyway,it does mean for both labels,thankfully.

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by Spacemiu@Nov 5th, 2003 - 8:18 pm
Ysl

i coudl see Viktor and Rolf deffinetly


Gucci

I think rick owens would be perfect, may be roland mormet

But isn't V&R rumoured to be taking over realms at Celine?

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by Scott+Nov 5th, 2003 - 6:28 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Scott @ Nov 5th, 2003 - 6:28 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-Spacemiu@Nov 5th, 2003 - 8:18 pm
Ysl

i coudl see Viktor and Rolf deffinetly


Gucci

I think rick owens would be perfect, may be  roland mormet

But isn't V&R rumoured to be taking over realms at Celine? [/b][/quote]
oh are they i didnt hear

you knwo who would be perfect and elgent, especially with their new direction, is AF Vandervoster

but they will probebly go for some thing safe and broing like Zac Pose, Prozen shouler or narcissos

 

[Alejandro]

Originally posted by Acid@Nov 5th, 2003 - 8:01 am
Chalayan is becoming head of Asprey fashion department so i dont think it will be him

Acid, what about you and me???

 

[ultramarine]

YSL -Viktor & Rolf ... they'd be great!
Gucci -for now, I'll leave it blank ..gotta think (It hurts!)

PS I dunno about McQueen juggling two houses ... remember Givenchy!

 

[Lena]

true, McQueen is not very successful when trying to do two jobs

 

[Lena]

more on the topic, this time by Cathy, extracts from NYT of today

Gucci's Choice for Designer Needs Sketches, and Charisma
By CATHY HORYN
Published: November 6, 2003
.....
Among the names most frequently mentioned by fashion insiders are Alexander McQueen, a British designer whose company is part of Gucci Group; Marc  Jacobs, an American who works for Louis Vuitton and his own label; Hedi  Slimane, the men's designer at Dior and a former designer at Saint Laurent; Narciso Rodriguez, a New York designer who once worked for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton; Nicolas Ghesquiere, whose Balenciaga label is also part of the Gucci Group; and Francisco Costa, a former assistant of Mr. Ford's at Gucci, who now designs for Calvin Klein.

Those are the obvious candidates. There are also lesser-known possible choices, like Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the young designers behind Proenza Schouler, whom Mr. Ford has made a point of getting to know; Stefano Pilati, who is Mr. Ford's chief associate designer  at Saint Laurent  ; and John Ray, who executes the men's wear collection at Gucci.

It is unlikely that P.P.R. will name a successor before the next round of runway shows in February and March, when Mr. Ford will present his last collections. Having a replacement in the wings could kill the consumer excitement that Gucci is counting on for Mr. Ford's exit.

Yesterday, Mr. Rodriguez and Mr. Costa said they had not been contacted by anyone from Pinault Printemps-Redoute. "It's all speculation, really," Mr. Costa said. Nor had Mr. McCollough and his business partner. "I would hate to take over Gucci," Mr. McCollough offered. "It's so Tom Ford." Mr. McQueen and Mr. Ghesquiere, who are stars in their own right - yet hardly household names - did not return calls seeking comment.

While all of these choices are talented, none appears to be a clear candidate to succeed Mr. Ford at either Gucci or Saint Laurent.

Mr. Ford is an original - not so much for his dressmaking skills but for his ability to recognize a decade ago that those skills matter  less in the increasingly global fashion business than marketing and personal relations. He has the interest and ability to speak to investors, as well as celebrities. He can take Gucci's advertisements to the outermost limits of taste. Yet, there can be no doubt that he knows how to make things that sell.

"Fifty percent of what makes a designer successful is his relationships with other people," Oscar de la Renta said yesterday, pointing out a weakness among many of the possible candidates for Mr. Ford's job.

.....

I've also added a Gucci-Group-Poll, including a mix of our own candidates and those hinted by international fashion Press for you to vote...

B) just in case P.P.R. assosiates are browsing FS, give them a hand deciding guys

 

[leyla m.]

STELLA

 

[trean]

Victor & Rolf or Alber ?

 

[ignitioned32]

Cool poll, Lena!

I picked Viktor & Rolf for YSL. Aside from the fact Berge suggested him, I think V&R (and Hedi, but I picked V&R ) can dig in the YSL archives while still re-inventing the house - which Ford failed to do.

McQueen, too, is a good pick for YSL though not at the choices.

Ghesquiere's take will always be intresting.

I saw some YSL influeneces in Grant's work, but what he does is way too simple for YSL.

As for Gucci maybe Grant. But he is way to clasy for Gucci.

 

[Colette]

we have to think what the name Yves Saint Laurent means for the majority of women,he is supposed to be the one who really invented the modern wardrobe.In a certain point of view,Jean Paul Gaultier is his logical heir.Gucci?it has a tradition of Italian luxury (unfortunately,most people associate Gucci with accessories),so names like Viktor and Rolf (my personal fav) or Ghesquiere,who are brilliant in the avant-gardiste fields,may seem surprising (they have to make their proofs before).Oddly enough,I like the English choices.

And think about this:The Haute Couture at Yves Saint Laurent.Yves himself admitted he really missed it,and wanted to go back to design.The pret a porter collection would have to be in agreement with the Haute Couture.