Gabriela Hearst F/W 2022.23 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[dior_couture1245]

There's nothing sustainable about clothes that belong in the trash.

 

[liberty33r1b]

so dated

 

[THD96]

It's not bad, it's just lack of any characteristics and personality.

Which is so weird because her accessories are the opposite. They're fun and eye-catching. I wish she has more fun. Sustainable can be fun too, it's doesn't have to be death serious. Only then she can a better designer for her own brand and Chloé.

 

[perhydrol]

There's nothing to say about this womenswear proposition because it's been the same collection for the past few years. However, I'd like to point out that the menswear looks like the Edition line from H&M. It's basic to the point of being completely uninspired, unnecessary and without any kind of aspiration. It's the ultimate proof that flexing on sustainability and fancy fabrics is not enough to create an interesting collection.

 

[Ruito]

My favorite show from NYFW so far... immaculately constructed, crafty, and above all, very cozy! Also, that tangerine-colored suit might be THE suit of the season...

 

[kasper!]

why is she so obessed with poncho?

 

[LadyJunon]

why is she so obessed with poncho?

For the exact same reason why black designers almost exclusively design streetwear or hoochie clothes... (Bless C.J.R., Mowalola, Rushmey and the slew of Nigerian designers who are capable of creating clothing that actually requires mental effort).

P.S. I say this as a black person.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Look 2 is kind of gorgeous, if only it were styled with a nicer shoe and didn't have that doily looking shoulder trim detail. The huge problem I have with her view on sustainability is that the clothes look so heavy and cumbersome, like she's trying to make the wearer "feel the weight of the world on their shoulders for what they're doing to the planet" or something. Why can't there be any sex appeal or sensuality when doing sustainability?

 

[90sFan]

Collection looks like Filene's Basement 90% off everything-must-go sale rack circa 2007.

 

[perhydrol]

Why can't there be any sex appeal or sensuality when doing sustainability?

I might be wrong on that, but it looks like this brand's target is a group of NYC's socialites who want to be taken seriously. That's the kind of impression I usually get from their clothing and it would actually explain the complete lack of humor and sensuality.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I might be wrong on that, but it looks like this brand's target is a group of NYC's socialites who want to be taken seriously. That's the kind of impression I usually get from their clothing and it would actually explain the complete lack of humor and sensuality.

The irony of a brand touting sustainability and appealing to socialites...

I guess I'm more or less projecting about "sustainability" as a whole in fashion, and I find Hearst reiterating a very tired and stuffy iteration that isn't really needed. Just visual pollution that lacks design.

 

[perhydrol]

But isn't the irony of Gabriela Hearst the essence of the whole discourse of sustainability? Of course it's a wonderful idea to minimize negative impact, but it's incredibly excluding since people will not give up on the use of virgin polyester or acrylic. The 'sustainable' part might be just too expensive for some of the customers. Therefore, I think at this point it's more a privilege instead of a real alternative, and we all know that Hearst's path has been marked by privilege.

 

[gossiping]

the camerawork on the show video is so odd... this is just not my taste

 

[Cocteau Stone]

But isn't the irony of Gabriela Hearst the essence of the whole discourse of sustainability? Of course it's a wonderful idea to minimize negative impact, but it's incredibly excluding since people will not give up on the use of virgin polyester or acrylic. The 'sustainable' part might be just too expensive for some of the customers. Therefore, I think at this point it's more a privilege instead of a real alternative, and we all know that Hearst's path has been marked by privilege.

Oh for sure! I think true sustainability is actually something a very select few can honestly do when it's done intentionally, especially in regards to fashion because it requires a huge amount of privilege and accessibility. Those that are honestly sustainable don't care so much about fashion or have done some extensive research. "Sustainability" doesn't even mean much anymore and is used like a stock character when someone needs a hot topic word to apply to their work/brand, so people need to find a new go to. I personally believe "sustainability" is near impossible to apply to fashion, because it's in fashion's nature to create stuff. But people need a model of it existing to make themselves feel better, which is fine. Just make it look well designed.

 

[disco54]

The clothes are horrible does this sh!t sell even also some of the models are morbidly obese. Also, let's be real nobody gives a flying f*ck about sustainability in fashion. Chloe needs to fire her she is terrible.

 

[YohjiAddict]

I scrolled backwards and was about to write that, for her standards, it’s not THAT bad…as I made my way to the first few looks, my first impression was quickly dispelled.

I don’t know how she always manages to find ever more hideous “70s Sears Catalogue” shades of color, is she colorblind?