Gianfranco Ferre F/W 13.14 Milan

[Morphe]

src: vogue.it

 

[Nymphaea]

I'm getting a Haider Ackermann vibe here...

 

[Morphe]

 

[Phuel]

Thanks for posting Morphe.

This is terrible.

I get that they want to evolve from the strong architectural shapes Ferre was famous for, but this is so juvenile. The concepts are there as is the potential-- but the results are horrendously bad-- like 1st-year design student heavy-handedness bad; everything looks unfinished with what looks to be sloppily folded seams--there's no sharpness, and puckering-galour. The styling is desperately trying to be Haider Ackermann-eque poetic, no doubt, particularly with those belts-- but it all looks cluttered like the girls are walking pin-cushions. Yuck.

 

[Morphe]

 

[Morphe]

 

[Alexei]

I actually quite like this.. very wearable, not overdone, just fashionable clothing with subtle edginess.

 

[anlabe32]

I agree, I like this too! The colours and fabrics seem nice, eventhough I could have done without some of the belts. Ferre is usually one of the better collections from Milan, but just so underrated. What could they possibly do to gain more recognition?

 

[Salvatore]

I'm getting a Haider Ackermann vibe here...

My exact first thought.

 

[GERGIN]

Messy.

 

[Jinadaze]

Thanks for posting Morphe.

This is terrible.

I get that they want to evolve from the strong architectural shapes Ferre was famous for, but this is so juvenile. The concepts are there as is the potential-- but the results are horrendously bad-- like 1st-year design student heavy-handedness bad; everything looks unfinished with what looks to be sloppily folded seams--there's no sharpness, and puckering-galour. The styling is desperately trying to be Haider Ackermann-eque poetic, no doubt, particularly with those belts-- but it all looks cluttered like the girls are walking pin-cushions. Yuck.

I agree, the fits and constructions are so bad it's uncomfortable to even look at.

 

[Egoiste]

There is pieces that I like, but this is sooooooooo Haider, as Nymphaea mentioned. In some looks it looks like it really belong to Haider collection.

 

[mantra48]

If you look at Gianfranco Ferre's designs for his own label in the 1980s, 1990s and even into the 2000s, you'll see where Haider's drapes, obi-sashes, stiffened collars, quilted bows are inspired by. All the old Ferre signatures are here.

 

[FakeFlower]

It's true there's quite some Haider Ackermann in this.
I think this collection is magnificent though!
The colours are great and work well together and the cuts are even more exciting.
Ferre evolved to a show that I'm always looking for to.

 

[StoneSkipper]

I get that they want to evolve from the strong architectural shapes Ferre was famous for, but this is so juvenile. The concepts are there as is the potential-- but the results are horrendously bad-- like 1st-year design student heavy-handedness bad; everything looks unfinished with what looks to be sloppily folded seams--there's no sharpness, and puckering-galour. The styling is desperately trying to be Haider Ackermann-eque poetic, no doubt, particularly with those belts-- but it all looks cluttered like the girls are walking pin-cushions. Yuck.

You know, I agree with you. It looks really messy. The way the fabrics cling onto the body is awful. A downgrade from last season's nice collection.

 

[Phuel]

If you look at Gianfranco Ferre's designs for his own label in the 1980s, 1990s and even into the 2000s, you'll see where Haider's drapes, obi-sashes, stiffened collars, quilted bows are inspired by. All the old Ferre signatures are here.

Ferre's women were never the otherworldly and romantic sirens of Ackermann's. Ackermann is more in tuned to the style of Romeo Gigli; a dreamscape Byzantine princess-type. Ferre was very much grounded in the real world and always envisioned a strong, modern and very rich, even bourgeois Grand Dame, more along the lines of the Helmut Newton attitude.

These two jokers at Ferre don't possess the skills, craft and impeccable precision that always embodied a Ferre collection. Ferre was a master of mixing prints and producing opulence, even maximalism without ever verging on the vulgar. The man was so refined and polished in his discipline it was effortless. And even if you're convinced that what is happening here is the evolution of the Ferre signature, there's no excuse for the poor, messy (thanks GERGIN!) production and blatant copycat but sloppy styling. They've turned the once grand Gianfranco Ferre label into a wannabe house. I mean, not to nitpick, but the guy in jeans can't even hem them properly-- they're just folded in; that's what guys that buy their jeans at L.L. Bean do...

 

[jemina]

I love it.

 

[vandekamp]

I'm not sure if I like it... ? I do but I don't.

This is sooo messy looking, but there's some nice pieces.