Frederic01
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Givenchy F/W 2022.23 Paris
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christian zh
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This is giving me the F/W 2008 vibe but a bit more current.
dior_couture1245
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Yikes. No.
RedSmokeRise
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I'm so dead lol. Matthew what is this!
THD96
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The woman is stronger than the men, but still, the whole collection is tragic.
His tailoring is still weak and his take on streetwear is so banal and cheap, especially the first few looks. Tisci Givenchy streetwear always looks so desirable and elevated. This looks like a failed version of Givenchy circa 2012.
The menswear is such a non-event, they're on the verge of those skater brands. Such a shame that the menswear is so weak, coming from Hypebeast designer.
The womenswear is slightly better, simply because it looks more grown-up, and less juvenile, unlike the men. At least there is an attempt for evening dressing.
The only thing that looks appealing to me is the jewelry, the pearl necklace is good.
LVMH tried so hard, but Matthew's Givenchy still doesn't achieve the success that they want. What's next? More importantly, who's next?
His tailoring is still weak and his take on streetwear is so banal and cheap, especially the first few looks. Tisci Givenchy streetwear always looks so desirable and elevated. This looks like a failed version of Givenchy circa 2012.
The menswear is such a non-event, they're on the verge of those skater brands. Such a shame that the menswear is so weak, coming from Hypebeast designer.
The womenswear is slightly better, simply because it looks more grown-up, and less juvenile, unlike the men. At least there is an attempt for evening dressing.
The only thing that looks appealing to me is the jewelry, the pearl necklace is good.
LVMH tried so hard, but Matthew's Givenchy still doesn't achieve the success that they want. What's next? More importantly, who's next?
jeanclaude
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Looks like a collective show with several different designers.
perhydrol
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Those last looks are the ultimate proof that Matthew should never be allowed to do anything couture-related. He just doesn't have a designer's eye and his silhouettes are always uncomfortable to look at. What's surprising, he tried to do some looks related to Waight Keller's tenure. That was weird. It looked as if he had realised that he alienated a whole group of more mature customers and now it's a matter of damage control. Honestly, it's getting way worse than Wang for Balenciaga. But isn't 2022 his third year at the house?
This was so incredibly messy. This collection goes all over the place, so many looks did not fit properly or looked badly constructed — or just cheap.
I find the menswear totally undesirable and predictable, I actually could not even focus on a single men’s looks when watching the show which says a lot. I only liked a few of the ruffle dresses and knee-high boots, but then they kind of made me think of Ghesquiere’s LV resort at Fondation Maeght a few years ago.
I find the menswear totally undesirable and predictable, I actually could not even focus on a single men’s looks when watching the show which says a lot. I only liked a few of the ruffle dresses and knee-high boots, but then they kind of made me think of Ghesquiere’s LV resort at Fondation Maeght a few years ago.
avonlea002
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You can leave NYFW but NYFW will never leave you.
Frederic01
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I just don't get him at all. This is so BASIC. All I see is an 1017 ALYX 9SM collection with some Givenchy logos slapped on. I don't see anything related to Givenchy whatsoever? I know we discuss it every season, the whole "what are the Givenchy design codes anyway?", but seriously, can he not reference the history even just a little bit? Because otherwise, what is the point? If the designer of a historic maison is not going to reference its founder and history whatsoever, then why bother at all? Why don't they just shut Givenchy down and invest all the money into ALYX? Oh, that's right, they won't because you can't sell a 1000EUROS t-shirt with the words ALYX slapped on. But you can with a Givenchy logo! *eye roll*
This brand is such a lost opportunity. It could be at the size of Dior it were managed properly. Whoever is in charge of Givenchy / the strategic decisions really messed up here. They were seduced by the sportswear hype of a designer like MW and saw endless bucket loads of $$$ coming in. But it doesn't always work that way. Clearly.
Clare Waight Keller was so good for the house, it's such a shame they gave her the boot. And for what reason? So some random guy from California could come and desecrate everything in the name of "CoOL"? Great job LVMH.
RIP Givenchy.
This brand is such a lost opportunity. It could be at the size of Dior it were managed properly. Whoever is in charge of Givenchy / the strategic decisions really messed up here. They were seduced by the sportswear hype of a designer like MW and saw endless bucket loads of $$$ coming in. But it doesn't always work that way. Clearly.
Clare Waight Keller was so good for the house, it's such a shame they gave her the boot. And for what reason? So some random guy from California could come and desecrate everything in the name of "CoOL"? Great job LVMH.
RIP Givenchy.
perhydrol
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I think (and hope!) that she will have the last laugh. Such a shame she didn't get hired by Alaia.
Lola701
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It’s sad to see someone struggling that hard. He doesn’t have the vision and the sales are totally in line with that…
And his response for declining sales is: more stuff, more separates.
I don’t think that this is the answer because without any hype around the house, it will be very hard to sell stuff.
When you are a great designer, you know that the answer is editing because it’s the only way to make your message clearer.
I’m surprised that LVMH kept him that long. They were seriously ambitious by giving him a 3 years contract.
They should have gave an internal promotion to one of Riccardo’s design assistant. Neither Clare or Matthew had the vision and neither of them performed commercially.
The question is « who can take over Givenchy? ». They can gamble on Daniel Lee as Couture is now purely Redcarpet/Marketing.
And his response for declining sales is: more stuff, more separates.
I don’t think that this is the answer because without any hype around the house, it will be very hard to sell stuff.
When you are a great designer, you know that the answer is editing because it’s the only way to make your message clearer.
I’m surprised that LVMH kept him that long. They were seriously ambitious by giving him a 3 years contract.
They should have gave an internal promotion to one of Riccardo’s design assistant. Neither Clare or Matthew had the vision and neither of them performed commercially.
The question is « who can take over Givenchy? ». They can gamble on Daniel Lee as Couture is now purely Redcarpet/Marketing.
THD96
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I think Clare's mistake was that she thought she can handle menswear, while that became her downfall. If they were separated from the men and women the outcome can be different.
Do you think that LVMH will take Daniel back after the whole fiasco with Kering?
And what direction and vision for the house like Givenchy in the 2020s. Is it the Tisci dark, romantic elevated streetwear that becomes associated with the brand? Or is it McQueen? Or will they ever go back to the vision of Hubert? I think his legacy is so underrated. Maybe because it has been deemed as irrelevant by some people, but I think with the right designer his cinematic, old Hollywood designs can be relevant in today's fashion scene.
GivenchyHomme
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This is probably the blandest and most uninteresting designer pairing ever. Literally nobody cares about this brand. What a joke.
Steddycam91
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You can just imagine Matthew crossing his fingers and hoping that the circa-2012 Hypebeast clientele will come back. Or maybe he expects us all to have collective amnesia from that period, so that we think that all of this is a genuinely new and fresh proposition.
Whether LVMH likes it or not, the ship has sailed and people have moved on. Even Riccardo's having trouble coming to that realization over at Burberry. We're now in an era where Balenciaga has taken the mantle as the "cool" "edgy" high fashion brand.
As others have said, it would be nice to see Givenchy try to pivot and mature a bit and harken back to the house's DNA; that would actually be an interesting departure for the house. Clare's output wasn't spectacular, but at least it felt elegant and expensive. Meanwhile, Matthew's lack of actual craft or vision for a high fashion house is just becoming increasingly painful to witness.
Whether LVMH likes it or not, the ship has sailed and people have moved on. Even Riccardo's having trouble coming to that realization over at Burberry. We're now in an era where Balenciaga has taken the mantle as the "cool" "edgy" high fashion brand.
As others have said, it would be nice to see Givenchy try to pivot and mature a bit and harken back to the house's DNA; that would actually be an interesting departure for the house. Clare's output wasn't spectacular, but at least it felt elegant and expensive. Meanwhile, Matthew's lack of actual craft or vision for a high fashion house is just becoming increasingly painful to witness.
Frederic01
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Exactly! 100% Agree.
Besides, I don't know why LVMH insists on chasing that CoOL factor in every single fashion house they own. They are now starting to push COOL at Tiffany&Co. Like, are they serious? You need to have a balance. Not every single brand can be edgy and cool. Some brands can and should appeal to a different sensibility. Right now, the brands that LVMH owns have designed themselves into a corner IMO. Apart from Loro Piana and possibly Emilio Pucci when it debuts under Camille Miceli, everything else they operate is chasing that hype beast dollar so hard, that it's now falling apart at the seams. Look at what happened to Berluti. Look at what is happening at Dior. The clientele is now moving onto Hermès and Chanel clothing.
The only solution to saving Givenchy right now, is to completely pivot away from whatever this is, and to do something completely new and different. I can see someone like Daniel Lee doing that. He's the only designer capable of really repositioning a brand as big as Givenchy, just because he has such a strong and uncompromising vision.
