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Givenchy S/S 2021 Paris

Some of this reminds me of Alexander Wang's Balenciaga, especially his collection for Spring 2014. I like the pants in look 30 and 32. And I can definitely see the slides or sandals becoming a hit. But like others said I only see accessories, which I guess he was hired for. I was interested to see what Matthew would do, but eh.
 
Tbh, I’m less disappointed that I prepared myself to be...
I think the fact that it’s a lookbook rather than a runway show helps him a little bit. It’s not bad and it’s not good either. Maybe the problem is that this is pretty much a moodboard of 20 years of Givenchy in on collection + current popular fashion. It’s not forward thinking despite a real strong visual identity (and not a fashion identity).

I see Lee’s Givenchy, I see Riccardo, I see Clare, I see Oswald and a bit of Julien. It’s quite gimmicky as a collection and the accessories while good are very « trendy ».

The good point of his Givenchy is that it feels more incarnated than Clare’s.
 
The whole collection looks like a poor recreation of archival pieces. The streamlined pieces are not the worst thing in the world but its surprising how he chose to be so referential for his first collection
 
Accessories are the money-makers. I'm afraid that pretty soon the clothes will be pushed completely out of the frame and fashion will be reduced to a bunch of expensive bags shoved down a runway.
Yeah bags are such a huge part of your outfit these days
 
I’m not mad at it, but I don’t love it. It’s just there. A bunch of “cool”, loud accessories. Papier-mâché pants that I’m actually into. A lot of Tom Ford and Helmut inspo for sure, although I do like the beige satin strip evening dress, it’s quite decadent in a way that you rarely see anymore. Overall, I like it more than what Clare was doing, since it’s already more directional. But I’m hoping for more in the upcoming seasons.
 
AAAARGHHH I can pin it down so easily, the clothes weren't strong enough for me, but just like Clare Waigh Keller's debut for the house which was also underwhelming maybe he too has the potential to grow.
Ahh I get you bud, I know what you mean it was definitely lacking energy. Where you from by the way?
 
I’m not mad at it, but I don’t love it. It’s just there. A bunch of “cool”, loud accessories. Papier-mâché pants that I’m actually into. A lot of Tom Ford and Helmut inspo for sure, although I do like the beige satin strip evening dress, it’s quite decadent in a way that you rarely see anymore. Overall, I like it more than what Clare was doing, since it’s already more directional. But I’m hoping for more in the upcoming seasons.
Ahh yeah those collections were nice. Where are you from?
 
Clare’s Givenchy had no identity. Talent is not enough without a vision...
Like it or not but Williams has a vision.

That Christian Cowan person has a vision too, Lola… LOL This is inexcusably immature and cheap.

Very juvenile, 90s-LA clubby take on Helmut Lang. And this presentation with the lighting, post, and most of all— casting, just drags everything to such a generic, LA clubwear look/feel. So tacky.
 
I was hoping for something a bit more refined like his campaign images. I think a different setting and photography would help the accessories shine better. The clothes are so simple and one dimensional that they feel like such a non-event. I am curious to see whether will cater more towards a more urban streetwear style for his menswear, similar to Ricardo, or continue in Claire's footsteps for the menswear (which seems to be the case for this collection).
 
I actually don't mind this, it's actually more sophisticated than I thought it would be. The accessories are definitely quite strong and I loved the embellished gowns at the end. My main irk with this collection are the generally speaking, ugly shoes and weird devil horn motif. I mean maybe it's because Lotta styled it but it just kind of kills the whole vibe.

It's his first collection so I still have my hopes. Compared to his other designer peers from the same generation, he actually has potential.
 
That Christian Cowan person has a vision too, Lola… LOL This is inexcusably immature and cheap.

Very juvenile, 90s-LA clubby take on Helmut Lang. And this presentation with the lighting, post, and most of all— casting, just drags everything to such a generic, LA clubwear look/feel. So tacky.
Yes but my point is that vision, visual identity matters. That doesn’t mean that having a vision means automatic success but it helps. Clare was talented but she proved that she works better with the limits of a house’s aesthetic. Her Chloé was a success!
A guy like Williams has « mass taste ». His fashion education is obvious fashion references which means Lang, Margiela, Simons, Ford, McQueen (the early days), Tisci. You can hardly be original when your references are everybody’s references but it makes your work easier to digest and to consume. Even someone like Peter Do that a lot of us loves, is very obvious in his influences.

A lot of designers don’t uses their imagination anymore. Their work is simply based on mood boards of existing runway looks or existing products. They are DJs or Samplers. Each look of this collection is a remix of a lot of existing runway looks.
 

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