Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski - Designer, Creative Director of Hermès

[PDFSD]

Nadine is too over designed in her approach and for lack of better word a tight *** , there is not much grace and effortless she is contaly obssed in make harness saddle wear on female bodies , it has glimes of hope but at times but it killed by the next 20 looks that are tortured.

the house can be way more beautiful and remain modern time less but they went from soft fluid lemair to dominatrix nadine ...it needs someone that has both.

i still love hermes for its colors & leathers and wit and prices , its truly the ikea of highest luxury left (they are not perfect) anyone can find something easy for their lifestyle in it without buying into everything its so non offensive friendly.

lately to much tacky logo stuff seems not ending anytime soon, it will have a dip/fatigue at some point because the logo commercial stuff don't match the high luxury idea behind the kelly and the brikin of being recognizable by design not by logo ...or they will go full LV gucci monogram everywhere and that defeats the brand ethos of craft and quality and design/function first.

also i think to many design directors at one house it feels a water down version of the idea of hermes instead of unique point of view /chapter of hermes story with each CD at the helm.

i think Blazy would fits hermes better than hermes his BV was a Italian design student that went to paris and seen the hermes stores and window and went back home to venice and did his /her copy of hermes or a JWA even maybe .

 

[brandon J pierre]

If This supports the art of couture I have zero problem with it. Growing up watching couture in the 90s they were so many houses now it's only 4 days of shows with about 4 to 5 shows. Also some houses have turned couture into a simple marking technique which I hate!. It's a applied art and need to be alive.
Sidenote: isn't it funny the world is going through so much turmoil and income inconsistency that they will be a demand for this but it is.😬

 

[blueorchid]

Sidenote: isn't it funny the world is going through so much turmoil and income inconsistency that they will be a demand for this but it is.

Same as it ever was...

 

[PDFSD]

If This supports the art of couture I have zero problem with it. Growing up watching couture in the 90s they were so many houses now it's only 4 days of shows with about 4 to 5 shows. Also some houses have turned couture into a simple marking technique which I hate!. It's a applied art and need to be alive.
Sidenote: isn't it funny the world is going through so much turmoil and income inconsistency that they will be a demand for this but it is.😬

but never has been i time that we had so many billionaires.

America's billionaires have grown $2.1 trillion richer during the pandemic, their collective fortune skyrocketing by 70 percent — from just short of $3 trillion at the start of the COVID crisis on March 18, 2020, to over $5 trillion on October 15 of this year 2024, according to Forbes data analyzed by Americans for Tax ...18 Mar 2024

Top 10 Countries with the Highest Number of Billionaires:​

United States 735

China 495

India 169

Germany 126

Russia 105

Hong Kong 66

Italy 64

Canada 63

United Kingdom 52

Taiwan 52

 

[JohannesL]

They had better find soneone to do couture if Nadege is going to stay doing RTW.

 

[j02215]

I hope it’s not true.. as much as I appreciate couture as an applied art, there’s this debutant energy and pettiness associated with the couture world, and I think Hermes is above that.

Hermes has long had “bespoke objects” offerings anyways - it’s truly anonymous (no one will be able to reference it to a specific show) and it’s always super cool when they are found in the wild.

 

[PDFSD]

I hope it’s not true.. as much as I appreciate couture as an applied art, there’s this debutant energy and pettiness associated with the couture world, and I think Hermes is above that.

Hermes has long had “bespoke objects” offerings anyways - it’s truly anonymous (no one will be able to reference it to a specific show) and it’s always super cool when they are found in the wild.

as much as i agree about the cheesiness to the HC world ...Hermes is no clean angel of bespoke anonymity and purest form of discreet luxury ......

they are very commercial and don't hide it and are playful about it only thing they are serious about is keeping the high value of crafting by hand and time it takes all the rest they are like LV & Chanel and all the others big ones.

the main offer is so commercial and tacky maybe this HC will balance the offering and distinction between the tiers of clients.

 

[jeanclaude]

So...then customers will have to buy some HC, to get the chance of buying a boring Birkin??

 

[PDFSD]

i t

So...then customers will have to buy some HC, to get the chance of buying a boring Birkin??

i think should be the next step yes lol
on another not i think if they are smart they should play up the leather part in HC allot not just evening wear .

it could be the next more status thing to have HC leather pieces with saddle stitching taking 6 months to deliver :-)

 

[Olaffo]

Well I think we might have missed that:

“Hermès has applied to participate in Haute Couture Week, held twice a year in Paris, in January and July. The French luxury brand has made plans to enter the high fashion market "by 2026-2027," said Axel Dumas, CEO of Hermès International, at the presentation of its annual results on Friday, February 14”

Source: Le Monde (Hermès takes on Chanel and Dior in the high fashion market)

The collection will be designed by current womenswear designer…

 

[Melancholybaby]

^Thanks for the article @Olaffo very interesting! Does it mention anything about Hermès setting up ateliers, recruiting seamstresses etc.?

 

[JohannesL]

Nadege can send those Margiela archive pieces down to the runway and call them couture. Otherwise, I really don't see how she can do couture.

 

[Olaffo]

Does it mention anything about Hermès setting up ateliers, recruiting seamstresses etc.?

I don’t believe it does but I do believe that the entire machinery of couture had been already in preparation for some time. Hermes has money and logistics to train or outsource parts of couture so I think it’s just a matter of approval from the federation and off we go !

I honestly can’t imagine what sort of “couture” they can offer: will they just be elevated pieces or straight up archival Margiela as @JohannesL suggested…it’s all very confusing to me what sort of format they’ll adapt or which direction they’ll go. Time will tell I guess.

 

[carla56]

I imagine something like this incredible trasparent crocodile blazer from JPG last show for them…

 

[Lola701]

I don’t believe it does but I do believe that the entire machinery of couture had been already in preparation for some time. Hermes has money and logistics to train or outsource parts of couture so I think it’s just a matter of approval from the federation and off we go !

I honestly can’t imagine what sort of “couture” they can offer: will they just be elevated pieces or straight up archival Margiela as @JohannesL suggested…it’s all very confusing to me what sort of format they’ll adapt or which direction they’ll go. Time will tell I guess.

I think in terms of craftsmanship, particularly during the Gaultier years, Hermes proved that they have the competent ateliers.
I think about some extraordinary lace dresses, some exquisite drapés beyond things like crocodile blazers and things like that.

And tbh, it’s Hermes, they can snatch any premiere d’atelier in all the lower end houses in Paris like Nina Ricci, Azzaro, Rochas, Cardin and others.

What I’m curious about is are they going to be fully integrated? That means having all the Metiers in house or are they going to work with Metiers d’Arts? 19M is in Pantin much like the Hermes factory.
The independent metiers d’arts in Paris are mostly working with LVMH…
Or are they going to buy the small workshops of métiers d’arts and integrate them in a Artisanat program?

And I wonder, they have any space left at Faubourg or Sèvres for a real Couture salon?

 

[jeanclaude]

I can already see the garments care tags made of leather...everything in leather! If RTW is a leather fest, I can´t even imagine the leather overdose they are going to deliver in HC!