good god, I find nothing worse than Girbaud, from their technofibres, patchwork details and gimmicks, I find it terribly dated... (they´ve also been starting to copy from designers like McQueen)
I find it quite hard to name a list "of all times", many of the legendary names would come to mind for me... for sure Balenciaga for his structured silhouettes, the Japanese (especially Yohji Yamamoto) and the inventor of the Bias-cut, Madeleine Vionnet. The list goes on, although I wouldn´t necessarily find Christian Dior a very important innovator (as well as Hubert de Givenchy or Marcel Rochas) - apart from Yves Saint Laurent who was a pioneer with his women´s tuxedos.
However, here´s my greatest designers of today list (in no order
- Olivier Theyskens
- Hussein Chalayan
- Junya Watanabe
- Hedi Slimane (apart from the silhouette, it´s the textiles that are subversive in men´s fashion)
- Nicolas Guesquière
- Hamish Morrow
- Sophia Kokosalaki (for her instantly recognizable hand-finished, draped clothes - if only she would find a manufacturer that can actually *produce* all this...)
I never really understood the point about Alber Elbaz, though - I find a lot of what he does for Lanvin a bit too easily made from a technical point of view - classic garments with frayed edges in luxe fabrics, what´s the deal about this?