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I think I am the only one on the board who likes Stella's designs
I'm willing to give anyone a chance before ruling them out completely. I agree that there has been doubt about her own line's profits and that should be handled first but we shall see.
actually she did pretty well for CHLOE... i just remembered
I agree! And the couture line is gone, anyways.Originally posted by Lena@Jan 12th, 2004 - 4:55 am
if i was Alexander McQueen, i'd stay away from the YSL chair.. he doesnt need two collections each season, he's doing great by his own (now that he has time to concentrate on his work).
WWD is really scratching its head on this one. Sounds to me like either post could go to someone whose name hasn't even come up yet.Originally posted by Lena@Jan 12th, 2004 - 4:55 am
...it seems Gucci might be designed by a group of designers...
McQueen Said Still on for YSL, Group Approach Seen for Gucci
PARIS — The rumor mill surrounding Gucci Group is moving into high gear, with intensified speculation that Alexander McQueen is indeed headed for Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche.
But there’s a new twist in the post-Tom Ford saga. While Narciso Rodriguez’s name was floated last month as the leading candidate for the Gucci saddle, it appears the selection committee is more likely to go with a group effort instead.
Sources said Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, which controls Gucci, wants to maintain Gucci’s powerful creative team and perhaps add another key Ford-trained talent: Stefano Pilati, women’s design director at YSL, who had initially been considered a potential successor to Ford at Paris-based YSL.
Meanwhile, sources said separately Friday that Gucci Group has been quietly shopping around its troubled jewelry and perfume firm Boucheron in order to concentrate on its other fashion businesses, which include Sergio Rossi, Bottega Veneta and Stella McCartney.
However, a Gucci spokesman denied on Friday that Boucheron was on the block.
Meanwhile, on the creative front, speculation reached a fevered pitch on the eve of men’s fashion week in Milan. Ford shows his last men’s collection for Gucci on Wednesday, while McQueen unveiled his new signature line for men on Sunday.
A group design approach at Gucci in the future is said to be particularly appealing to the selection committee because it could build on the label’s success by putting the focus more on products and less on personalities. That, in turn, would represent a strategic turnabout from the so-called “star system” that dominated international fashion in the Nineties.
While long toiling in the background of fashion, Pilati is well-known to fashion insiders as instrumental in the new-era YSL. He joined YSL in March 2000 from Prada Group, where he designed for the Miu Miu brand.
Among notable members of the Gucci design group is Alessandra Facchinetti. Intimates describe her as talented, methodical and organized. She previously worked at Prada.
Serge Weinberg, chief executive officer of PPR and a member of the selection committee, has long praised Pilati and the wealth of creative talent in the luxury group behind the front-man Ford. He has otherwise remained mum on the subject and vowed not to announce successors to Ford and Gucci Group chief executive officer Domenico De Sole until after Ford has shown his final women’s collections for Gucci in late February and YSL in March.
Reached last week after returning from a vacation in Bahia, Brazil, Rodriguez declined all comment. But there were said to be several stumbling blocks to Rodriguez’s candidacy, sources said.
Numerous sources stressed on Friday that no contracts have been signed with Ford’s replacements. A spokeswoman for François-Henri Pinault, chairman of family holding Artemis and a member of the selection committee, declined all comment. The other member of the selection committee is Adrian Bellamy, chairman of Gucci Group’s supervisory board.
In fact, PPR may face an uphill climb in convincing the “enfant terrible” McQueen to take up the reins at YSL — even if it is one of the plum jobs in fashion. Sources said McQueen was a no-show at one of the first meetings organized in London to talk about the YSL design post, but it is believed discussions are now proceeding in a normal manner.
McQueen is also said to be seeking assurances that Gucci Group will step up investment in his signature fashion house. One of McQueen’s frustrations when he was designing Givenchy, owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, was that it took time away from building his own business, which at that time he owned completely. McQueen has repeatedly stated throughout the years that his personal goal is to build the McQueen name into a global brand rivaling Giorgio Armani or Polo Ralph Lauren. Gucci Group currently owns 51 percent of McQueen, with the designer owning the remainder.
As for Boucheron, a sale of the company would not be surprising, given the challenges Gucci Group has faced in getting the brand sparkling.
Earlier this year Gucci Group put on ice an ambitious expansion plan for Boucheron, opening a Bottega Veneta flagship in New York in a Fifth Avenue space originally earmarked for a Boucheron store. Year-old shops in Honolulu and Milan were also shuttered.
“Developing and producing jewelry takes much longer than in fashion,” De Sole told WWD in an interview last fall. Asked in a separate interview if Boucheron was for sale, De Sole responded, “You can never say never.”
I think I am the only one on the board who likes Stella's designs
IN PLAIN SIGHT: Tom Ford knows how to milk a controversial entrance or exit, so the designer had to be aware that he’d be raising eyebrows by showing up at the Four Seasons in Milan on Sunday night to meet up with Valentino and his entourage, including Giancarlo Giammetti, Bruce Hoeksema and Carlos Souza. Ford and Valentino then left the hotel and arrived together at GQ’s designer bash, starting conspiracy theorists, who hadn’t stopped whispering about the possibility of Ford going to Versace, thinking about Ford at Valentino. Souza, reached on Monday, said Ford was simply repaying Valentino for having hosted him for a ski weekend in Gstaad over Christmas.
“It was just a nice cocktail before the GQ party,” Souza said.
And, as rumors persist that Alexander McQueen is heir apparent to Ford at Yves Saint Laurent, the British designer for now appears to be clearly focused on his namesake label, introducing his first men’s collection under Gucci Group this week during the fall 2004 shows. During an intimate chat about the new collection at a presentation in Milan, the designer seemed caught off guard by the YSL question. “I’m surprised that a men’s wear magazine would ask that,” he told WWD’s sister publication DNR. On the record, McQueen, whose brand is controlled by YSL parent company Gucci Group, gave a “no comment” about rumored talks. However, a psychologist would have had a field day interpreting his uncomfortable body language as he dodged a concrete answer.
Originally posted by Lena@Jan 13th, 2004 - 2:35 am
...Tom sure knows how to make people talk
ps: Gstaad is pronounced exactly as you write it, with two aa's emphasis on the second a
welldoneOriginally posted by Atelier@Jan 13th, 2004 - 5:39 pm
I'm following this closer than Melrose Place. (Did I just type that for the world to see?)