Gucci Pre-Fall 2025 Milan

The sleek, clean aesthetic he has anchored his vision for @gucci on has been knocked for its simplicity, accused of prompting occasional yawns among a fashion and social media audience that’s always chasing the next adrenaline rush.⁠

Gurl.... do your research. Sabato has been criticised for his lack of signature aesthetic, for a chaotic approach to marketing, for cheapening the brand by his insistence on logo-mania and using faces like Beyonce's mother and Bad Bunny, etc, etc, etc. No one has criticised him for his "simplicity". Further to that, the audience has high expectations. This is Gucci after all, not Michael Kors. We expect something magical and stimulating both intellectually and aesthetically from the Artistic Director of Gucci. This is a brand that has virtually unlimited resources at its disposal, the best manufacturing capabilities in Italy, and an army of the world's most talented designers. They literally have no excuse for these mediocre collections.

The fact of the matter is that Sabato's Gucci really isn't that interesting. You can write ten million more articles on how he is "stubborn" and stays "true to his vision", but no matter how much (PR) spin you put on it, the reality is right in front of our eyes.
 
I like a lot of the separate pieces but the casting is not right. they need people to elevate the so called simplicity of the clothes, but only Awar was able to do it here
 
I would say something: I’m pleasantly surprised by a lot of things I’m seeing here.
- I love the furry situations, particularly that shearling bomber jacket (look 5) and the teddy brown coat on the menswear even though, based on the review from WWD, I don’t understand why Gucci is doing Fake fur while selling exotic leather.

- I absolutely love the brown suede and cognac duffle, Jackie and B bags. This is the chicest alteration of a Gucci bags he has proposed.

- I love the penny loafers on the menswear.

However, I find the styling terrible. I don’t get his woman. I hate those sets like if people are wearing clothes as pyjamas. I’m confused.

I think something commercial shouldn’t try that hard.

When you are doing something as commercial as this, style it in a way that would make people want the whole look. There’s no way someone has to dissect the whole outfit.

And those dragging pants with slits are vile.
Marie Chaix styled this
She did wonderful for BV with Daniel Lee but I’m confused since then. Her work for Tom Ford, for Chanel and now Gucci is quite embarrassing.
 
Nothing to discuss about honestly.
- Those slouchy pants with slits on the bottom are hideous, no one in real life would dare to wear pants with edges dragging on wet streets / floor. I don't think why they are still pushing them
- Nice duffles
- The hobo bag with the oversized horsebit detail looks like somethign from Tod's, no thank you
- It looks like they got rid of that cheap (and tacky at the same time) Jackie Notte and in general the cheapified Jackie clasp Sabato came up with
- I wish the prints were used more, it seems he doesn't like vivid prints, apart from the gaudy surfing man ones from the menswear show SS25
 
I love her styling for Schiaparelli shows though
I mean, it’s Couture…There’s not much « styling » when you are following the vision of a sketch. For me it’s almost a different exercise.

Here and with her work in RTW, it’s about pieces styling together as outfits to create a cohesive story and it’s totally lost.
A white gown with riding boots…come on!

There’s a huge « influencers » vibe in this styling and influencers can’t dress.
 
Terrible styling, sloppy pants pooling bunched at the bottom , cheap fake fur, drab models , nothing in this says glamour or opulence. It honestly looks like a Gap collection with some Biba influence
 
I actually find this his best work, which still is subpar and bellow any level that should be the output of Gucci. But still it’s a pre fall thing. This just lacks a clear vision and angle, a story is too much to ask. It’s clear sds should work under a creative director, he can make pretty clothes, but he’s not an artist or story teller. He’s drowning there and it’s painful to watch.
 
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It confirms that he makes a good studio director, but not a good creative director - not everyone can make such a leap.
 

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