I don't think he canThanks @Kanzai
As I said in his thread, the womenswear is good. It’s good because it’s familiar. It would have been great if he actually introduced something new other than a fresh take on archives.
And we need to move on from the références of the same collections from Tom Ford’s Gucci.
Maybe FW2001 can be one to explore or the menswear of FW2002.
And also, maybe it’s time to explore the references, build from that instead of just copying a look.
I’m pretty sure this is not the kind of fashion that Cathy Horyn would eat up.
I find it safe (right on the border with pedestrian) and I don’t think it’s strong enough to turn the brand into a “moment” again. It feels interesting and fresh on the surface because Demna is referencing Ford’s era, but there’s no real weight in terms of vision or impact. I just hope he doesn’t fall into the Balenciaga curse the way Ghesquiere did, moving to a bigger house and slowly losing that edge.
I think the guy is under extreme pressure – the expectations from Kering are massive. He can’t “go hard” because it might get him sent home, but playing it too safe and constantly raiding the archives could get him fired just as fast.