New Gucci Team Strides Strongly Into Post-Ford Era
By Jane Barrett
MILAN (Reuters) - Gucci sauntered confidently into a new era Tuesday when it staged its first fashion show since the high-profile departure of star designer Tom Ford, winning a new round of praise from critics and buyers.
Ford transformed Gucci from a tatty Florentine leather label into one of the world's sexiest trend-setters and fashion experts had feared it would lose momentum as three of his understudies took over menswear, womenswear and the all-important accessories design.
But the men's spring/summer 2005 collection, designed by Scotsman John Ray, had the catwalk crowd cheering as hip-hugging white trousers, flowing evening caftans and luscious leather slippers kept the spirit of the label alive.
"It was an exceptional first effort -- totally within the spirit of Gucci but aggressively sexy with distinctive color, a distinctive point of view. I was very impressed," said Ron Frasch of U.S. retailer Saks Fifth Avenue.
Fashion editors were a little less effusive, hailing the show as proof Gucci was alive and kicking but missing "that raw, sexy but elegant individualism that screamed Tom Ford."
Ray, who joined Gucci's menswear team in 1996, had already shown a mid-season cruise collection to retailers who snapped up his bamboo printed shirts and light colored blazers.
"The results of the cruise collection sales were just, well, really very good," the head of the Gucci brand Giacomo Santucci told Reuters at the show, beaming as he searched for the right adjective without giving away sales figures.
"It was a great way to start the new phase, building on the foundations we have," he added.
Ford left Gucci with former group Chief Executive Domenico De Sole earlier this year after they failed to agree new contracts with owner French retailer PPR, which refused to give them carte blanche to run Gucci's 10 brands.
Analysts were skeptical that the world's third largest luxury group would keep up its strength as the triumvirate of designers took over its core label.
LUXURIOUS DETAIL
But Ray and accessories designer Frida Giannini kept up the quality detail-obsessed Ford demanded and had buyers -- and new Gucci CEO Robert Polet -- drooling over soft crocodile-skin loafers with the heel trodden down and big squashy leather bags.
Flat-fronted trousers or jeans tucked neatly around models' bottoms before gently flaring out over the knee, worn either under milky cotton jackets with delicate military details or loose, Indian-inspired tops decorated with coins and mirrors.
For work days, Gucci showed white suits with a gray chalk stripe worn over butterfly-printed silk shirts that were pleated along the shoulder for a relaxed, baggy look once the natty back-belted jackets came off.
Then off to the beach in the skimpiest of briefs decorated with Gucci's trademark double-G logo and a GG buckle at the top.
The winning pieces came in the form of eveningwear.
Gucci relaxed out last year's 1930s tuxedos, pairing long evening trousers with new jackets in rich brown brocade that looked like swirled melted chocolate, worn over fine crushed linen or silk shirts in apricot and deep blush.
And if next year is as sticky as Milan was Tuesday, head for Gucci's dress-down evening elegance, ditch the jacket and slip on a floor-length caftan in swirls of blue and brown.