Hedi Slimane - Designer

I suspect Hedi doesn't want physical shows in Paris because he doesn't want to be part of a fashion week, meaning: stuck in a calendar among the competition, vulnerable to comparison, and just in front of the press or critics .
He must either think he's better than that, or on the contrary, feels extremely insecure.
That makes sense, considering how critics consistently targeted his collections post-DH. It's very obvious that Hedi is more interested in dressing real people with real lives, rather than participating in runway pageantry.

That said, physical shows with guests in places like St-Tropez, Monaco and Venice could do wonders for the brand's reach. On top of that, the lack of surrounding shows would allow Hedi to take full control on the experience from the show itself to the events and projects around it.
 
Idk if hedi hates paris. Its likely hedi wants to avoid the turnoil there. Not unlike me hanging out in florida until NYC gets its act together.


Karl did this when he lived in Monaco for a decade because he wanted to avoid Parisian political turmoil.
Karl lived in Monaco to avoid French taxation, until he got caught because the villa he rented from Caroline (la Vigie) is actually on the French side of the border, so he couldn't claim Monaco taxation and had to pay nearly 10 years of back taxes plus penalties to the French IRS.
He made quite an infamous deal with a then Budget minister Dominique Strauss-Khan, potentially through kompromat delivered by his tax lawyer, the "Cassette Mery" case, but still had to sell many of his properties and his collection of XVIIIth century furniture, which was mostly acquired through Bill Pallot, so the furniture was certainly forged or dubious, KL overpaid for it, but then he got scammed a second time because the auctions crash (buyers at the auction were the same people who sold him the furniture initially, but they made an agreement to not bid on each others for the buy-back).

So no lol, Karl wasn't trying to avoid the Parisian turmoil, he was the turmoil, he loved the turmoil, with the very notable exception being Grand-Champ and the time he spent there with Jacques or his mother. After that, he never spent other significant amount of times in in his other properties, they were mostly design projects for him.

Call me old if you want :D , but I knew him since the 70s and the dinner parties every Sunday nights at La Coupole, and the other nights at Maxim's, le 7, le Palace...
 
Call me old if you want :D , but I knew him since the 70s and the dinner parties every Sunday nights at La Coupole, and the other nights at Maxim's, le 7, le Palace...
Wow, so you actually lived to see the rise (and consequent Jessica-Stam-at-Chloe-style fall of modern high fashion). I'm jealous.
 
Karl lived in Monaco to avoid French taxation, until he got caught because the villa he rented from Caroline (la Vigie) is actually on the French side of the border, so he couldn't claim Monaco taxation and had to pay nearly 10 years of back taxes plus penalties to the French IRS.
He made quite an infamous deal with a then Budget minister Dominique Strauss-Khan, potentially through kompromat delivered by his tax lawyer, the "Cassette Mery" case, but still had to sell many of his properties and his collection of XVIIIth century furniture, which was mostly acquired through Bill Pallot, so the furniture was certainly forged or dubious, KL overpaid for it, but then he got scammed a second time because the auctions crash (buyers at the auction were the same people who sold him the furniture initially, but they made an agreement to not bid on each others for the buy-back).

So no lol, Karl wasn't trying to avoid the Parisian turmoil, he was the turmoil, he loved the turmoil, with the very notable exception being Grand-Champ and the time he spent there with Jacques or his mother. After that, he never spent other significant amount of times in in his other properties, they were mostly design projects for him.

Call me old if you want :D , but I knew him since the 70s and the dinner parties every Sunday nights at La Coupole, and the other nights at Maxim's, le 7, le Palace...
He said himself he left bc paris wasnt feeling safe for homosexuals when Mitterand won.
 
BOF is not that desperate to follow Miss Tweed, come on you think LVMH has zero input on what agenda BOF pushes, nothing more than getting ahead of the news than BOF completely ignoring it, LVMH might have asked BOF to delay this article at the very least.

I do think other brands will try to have Hedi,if they come to a agreement is another thing.

If LVMH and Hedi don't come to mutual agreements that works for both sides, he will leave it all behind regardless what projects are up coming or the success it generated so far.
He left Saint Laurent also just after he open the new HQ and started the couture part with the white YVES SAINT LAURENT label etc it was also not completed his project in a way.

Basically what i want to say is you can't plan disagreements that happen between you and your employer, some or most of the time its many little drops that make the bucket overflow at a certain point this moments can be like now upcoming contract negotiations etc

A studio in St Tropez thing started during the pandemic, i don't understand this part as i know people still work from Paris style office as well currently as they await for him to arrive they don't move a pin or sketch without his input.
I need to ask what percentage is in St Tropez if this is the case still, ( also as highlighted by miss tweed article is was the disruption of design office team members lives to have to move their during the pandemic that caused stress.... not everyone want to live there, to be fair people in design offices also have families and a private life & quality of life in a city they chose to be in and not enforced by a company )
Oh please believe that Hedi’s camp would likely be behind this than LVMH because if it’s one thing, it can be concerning for the share holders considering that Celine is a growing brand…
And Hedi never gets « fired ». Hedi only always leaves in his own terms.
Slimane has a personal relationship with the Arnault and the angle of this article is unsettled to me.

This story will have some credibility to me once an article notices that Hedi decided to leave Celine.

I can’t see Hedi elsewhere because let’s be honest: a few people can afford him, a few people can accommodate him.

He left Saint Laurent because of control issues. The same reason he left Dior Homme and which is the same reason he left YSL when Tom/Dom joined. At Saint Laurent, he had a frustration regarding the beauty department even though he is friend with the Bettencourt-Meyers. At Dior Homme, for obvious reasons, he was limited to menswear.
Celine is in essence the perfect ultimate brand for him…
Because at Chanel, he will be limited.

And seriously, why living in Saint Tropez would be an issue now if it has been the case for seasons? And as I repeat, when was the last time that Hedi worked from Paris while at the helm of a house? It’s a non-issue.

He said himself he left bc paris wasnt feeling safe for homosexuals when Mitterand won.
Mouais, he probably didn’t believed it himself.
Decriminalization of homosexuality was part of Mitterrand’s program and the law passed quite early.
The reality is that there was a psychose because communists were taking the power when Mitterand took over. So everybody rich and privileged kinda expected the worst from it. But in reality, Karl escaped to avoid taxation much like Bernard Arnault escaped for the same reason. Actually, if it wasn’t for Mitterrand, he would have probably never been who he became.
We saw that Karl came back quickly right? And he became insanely richer in the 80’s as Mitterrand embraced liberalism at it fullest. It was a time when the creative were still very much affiliated with the left wing.

And Karl had his people in both parties anyway…
 
Full article:
Celine Eyes Polo Ralph Lauren Designer: Sources
Michael Rider previously worked at Celine for 10 years, during the Phoebe Philo era.

By MILES SOCHA
APRIL 24, 2024, 1:00AM


Does Celine have its eye on Polo Ralph Lauren designer Michael Rider?

According to market sources, Rider is the frontrunner to take over from Hedi Slimane, who is said to have notified Celine parent LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton of his intention to step down after an acclaimed six-year tenure that lifted the brand to new heights of influence and sales.

It would mark a return to Celine for Rider, who logged a decade as design director of ready-to-wear from 2008 to 2018, working under then-creative director Phoebe Philo.

Rider is currently creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren in New York, according to his LinkedIn profile.

A graduate of Brown University in Rhode Island, he also worked as a senior designer at Balenciaga from 2004 to 2008.

Contacted by WWD on Tuesday, Celine officials declined all comment.

Neither Slimane nor Rider could immediately be reached for comment on Tuesday.

The exact timing of Slimane’s departure could not immediately be learned, but it is believed to be sometime later this year.

It may be hard to discern: The exacting designer has become fashion’s latest Greta Garbo, rarely making public appearances and granting interviews almost never. While most fashion brands have roared back to IRL shows after the coronavirus pandemic, Slimane has preferred to continue revealing Celine collections via painstakingly edited films — on his own timetable.

He unveiled Celine’s fall 2024 women’s collection online a few weeks after Paris Fashion Week — a youthful, polished take on the brand’s golden age in the ’60s — and it is understood his men’s fall 2024 collection film will be released sometime in May, nearly four months after most other European brands.

Despite his low-key profile, Slimane has built a devoted and growing global following for the brand with his finely honed rtw collections, leather goods festooned with Celine’s coveted Triomphe motif, high-profile brand ambassadors like Lalisa Manobal of Blackpink, and striking black-and-white campaigns he photographs himself.

At LVMH’s annual shareholders’ meeting last week, the luxury giant’s chairman and chief executive officer Bernard Arnault boasted about the exceptionally long lines in front of Celine stores in Japan.

It is understood LVMH wishes Slimane’s eventual successor to build on the brand’s momentum, and not stray too far from the winning template the Frenchman has forged, riffing on French bourgeois codes with sly winks to grunge and other alternative music scenes.

Alongside his fall 2024 collection film last month, Slimane teased Celine’s entry into cosmetics after a successful foray into haute perfumerie.

First up is a range of satin-finish lipsticks in 15 colors, hitting counters in January 2025. According to Celine, new beauty collections designed by Slimane are to be released each season, ultimately comprising lip balms, mascaras, nail polish, eyeliners and pencils, loose powders and blush cases, as reported.

Fully acquired by LVMH in 1996, Celine has cycled through a number of creative directors over the years, including Michael Kors, Roberto Menichetti and Ivana Omazic.

Slimane has a long and gold-plated track record of revving up heritage brands — and then stepping out at the top of his game. A recent report on LVMH by RBC Capital Markets analysts pegged Celine revenues at around 2.5 billion euros.

Slimane catapulted to international prominence in the late ’90s as the designer at Yves Saint Laurent Rive Homme, going on to design for Dior Homme, only to return to YSL and change its name to Saint Laurent. He joined Celine in 2018 and extended the brand into menswear and beauty categories.
Source: WWD
 
With both WWD and BOF reporting on this, I'm starting to believe it may be more than a rumor.
I wonder if Hedi has been approached by another house, a position he can't refuse or maybe he's (temporarily) fed up with fashion again.
Or he just gets bored after a few years and needs a new project again...
 
Lol polo ralph lauren? Whew celine will be toast. Hope those boutique leases are short.

Im leaning into what lola said. This is hedis team making us scoff. Its so ridiculous.
 
Another Phoebe alumni. People in the IG comments will be happy again.
If there was a contract negociation with Hedi at the moment he’d be so pissed to know this.
 
Mmm I hope bernie isnt dumb enough to think he can replace thee hedi slimane. He cant be. Look at Dior Homme. DH hasnt been relevant since Hedi left. That must hurt since they created DH solely for Hedi…

All the hedi fans will fly like vampires before garlic if they try to give us an American Sportswear Designer whos primary driver are $100 polos. Nope. Theyve lost their minds.

LVMH only gets good will from me bc of Hedi and a little from Nicolas. Without Hedi I will be forced to turn my back on LVMH once again…. Im not joking between DH and Celine I never touched any LVMH because Hedi gives it all an air of class. Without him its too machinelike. Too mechanical. Not real fashion credibility. This also means everyone around me asking for opinions will be hearing no LV no Dior no Celine no Loewe.
 
So sad to see if he leaves. I think his work at Celine has been excellent, great quality and very desirable. And I feel and see hedis hand in all aspects of the brand, a rare tonic to todays blandness (and Celine is in a way very basic).
Hope he leaves on good terms. I think he should just focus on photography and doing his own thing, fashion feels so dead anyway.
 
As people said Hedi leaving Celine will likely mean him leaving fashion for good. Nobody could afford him, and give him the freedom he wants. I hope it’s not true.
 
Okay, if WWD reports it, they are authorized to do so, so it's 99% certain.
And Celine transitions to a even more lifestyle company...
 
I suspect Hedi doesn't want physical shows in Paris because he doesn't want to be part of a fashion week, meaning: stuck in a calendar among the competition, vulnerable to comparison, and just in front of the press or critics .
He must either think he's better than that, or on the contrary, feels extremely insecure.
I don't blame him if he doesn't want to be part of a fashion week, it's a circus and tacky most of it, but i think it has more to do with his own timing to things if your see his shootings dates are done way in advanced than other brands and releasing show videos off schedule works well for attention on the brand, Phoebe did it as well for pre collections at Celine and is doing it now with her edits drops, so did Alaia like forever .....i like the rebel side of it and snob vibes even if ist for a good reason....after all fashion is also about doing things your own way and not follow the big crowd :-)
 
Oh please believe that Hedi’s camp would likely be behind this than LVMH because if it’s one thing, it can be concerning for the share holders considering that Celine is a growing brand…
And Hedi never gets « fired ». Hedi only always leaves in his own terms.
Slimane has a personal relationship with the Arnault and the angle of this article is unsettled to me.

This story will have some credibility to me once an article notices that Hedi decided to leave Celine.

I can’t see Hedi elsewhere because let’s be honest: a few people can afford him, a few people can accommodate him.

He left Saint Laurent because of control issues. The same reason he left Dior Homme and which is the same reason he left YSL when Tom/Dom joined. At Saint Laurent, he had a frustration regarding the beauty department even though he is friend with the Bettencourt-Meyers. At Dior Homme, for obvious reasons, he was limited to menswear.
Celine is in essence the perfect ultimate brand for him…
Because at Chanel, he will be limited.

And seriously, why living in Saint Tropez would be an issue now if it has been the case for seasons? And as I repeat, when was the last time that Hedi worked from Paris while at the helm of a house? It’s a non-issue.


Mouais, he probably didn’t believed it himself.
Decriminalization of homosexuality was part of Mitterrand’s program and the law passed quite early.
The reality is that there was a psychose because communists were taking the power when Mitterand took over. So everybody rich and privileged kinda expected the worst from it. But in reality, Karl escaped to avoid taxation much like Bernard Arnault escaped for the same reason. Actually, if it wasn’t for Mitterrand, he would have probably never been who he became.
We saw that Karl came back quickly right? And he became insanely richer in the 80’s as Mitterrand embraced liberalism at it fullest. It was a time when the creative were still very much affiliated with the left wing.

And Karl had his people in both parties anyway…
Oh i don't believe it's a matter of him getting fired, him walking away would be because he did not get what he asked for, for that i wrote mutual agreement part. i know his past well and his point of views :-)

Hedi is super talented as a creative director he is one of the few that has this obsession on creating a cohesive world for any brand his way of approaching each project and making it personal to his obsessions in music and youth culture makes it flexible to do other houses if he sees a project in it.

Be honest no one could have predicted him doing Celine before it all makes sense after the fact sure the same for Dior Homme that did not even have a history before him.

if he finds a house has something he can work with and twist he would do it again.

if he leaves i hope he will do something again.
 
the #philophiles won. what if he actually is going to chanel?
I don't think so i don't see Michael Rider going all the way Phoebe Celine his personal style now is more lifestyle then design to the edge when he was at Celine he had always these oversized nomadic layering vibes if your see polo RL shoots lately its same thing

I think it won't have the sharp edge that hedi did so well or even phoebe celine twist as she had more people in the team then just Michael Rider to give different inputs






 

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