Hedi Slimane - Designer

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Kimihiro said:
As people said Hedi leaving Celine will likely mean him leaving fashion for good. Nobody could afford him, and give him the freedom he wants. I hope it’s not true.
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Everybody is retiring…Tom, Dries…Potentially Hedi. And we’ll have that generation shift soon with Armani, Prada, Ralph Lauren…etc.
PDFSD said:
Oh i don't believe it's a matter of him getting fired, him walking away would be because he did not get what he asked for, for that i wrote mutual agreement part. i know his past well and his point of views :-)

Hedi is super talented as a creative director he is one of the few that has this obsession on creating a cohesive world for any brand his way of approaching each project and making it personal to his obsessions in music and youth culture makes it flexible to do other houses if he sees a project in it.

Be honest no one could have predicted him doing Celine before it all makes sense after the fact sure the same for Dior Homme that did not even have a history before him.

if he finds a house has something he can work with and twist he would do it again.

if he leaves i hope he will do something again.
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The Miss Tweed and BOF piece implies that his demands and the slowdown in luxury would be the reasons for his departure so they implies that LVMH is acting in reaction of that….The glamorous way to not say fired.

Except if his career goal is to redo brands to his taste and principles then leaves, I wonder what is his purpose to pursue fashion as a creative outlet.

When LVMH pursued him, the demands were already there and everything was done to accommodate those demands. He has managed to expand the brand post-pandemic in a setting that is currently relevant.

I wonder who, except for Bernard Arnault would give that level of control and access in the industry. Because Slimane is also involved in the strategy regarding production and distribution.

My take would be that he will probably leave fashion all together tbh.

The Weirthemers aren’t going to dismantle the entire setting of Chanel to accommodate Mr Slimane who has barely stayed a decade at a house .
 
We will never really know what happened. I doubt the departure is due to LVMH wanting him to go because the brand is underperforming atm. It might have been an ego issue, because the first reason would be such a short-term strategy.

His level of success and following is literally unparalleled. A guy working at Ralph Lauren can bring Céline to new heights? I don't know...

I am sad especially because he won't have more campaigns by him.
 
You know what, if he really goes, he should never come back.

He has had success after success throughout his career, unlike some people (Raf...).

Hedi, with Nicolas, is one of the really talented and contemporary French designers (I don't want to associate them with YSL, Alaia or Karl) that we have the chance to have.

He should enjoy LA, St Tropez, whatever city he wants and photographing some twinks playing music.
 
This situation is so interesting. It's like both Kering (YSL) and LVMH (Celine) have used Hedi's vision and world-building to lay a solid foundation for the brands, from the top down. They accommodate all of his demands for creative control and just as sales are peaking (or beginning to slow), he leaves and they hire a replacement who can basically carry on the same aesthetic and world that he built. Think of Vacarello at YSL, he was basically brought in to continue the Hedi vision and it worked.

Hedi is a low-key designer by today's standards and he does not have a namesake label, and as many of you have noted his work and vision extends far beyond the clothes and campaigns, he is involved in strategy and distribution too. That makes him easier to replace in theory, because the new designer remains low key and the brand image doesn't change much. It feels continuous, but the foundation is Hedi's 360-degree vision and strategy. I want to say he'd be a good strategy and brand consultant, but the fact is all his work feels very 'him' so he'd be quite limited in that regard.
 
Another point to look at, maybe he's setting up a new kind of example for creative director here?
If he's demanding royalties of the sales, is this something that has been done before in fashion? I mean if the brand grew to a certain amount perhaps you as a creative director are entitled to some sort of reward system. If you look at how Celine is operated, he "is" the brand now in 2024 from product to image to communication to furniture. It's like taking a stake in what you do, maybe CDs like Sabato or Daniel Lee should have this kind of initiatives too.

If you look at it this way, I would want to negotiate too if I were him.
Kudos to him for standing up to Bernie A. #teamHedi
 
WinstonH20 said:
This situation is so interesting. It's like both Kering (YSL) and LVMH (Celine) have used Hedi's vision and world-building to lay a solid foundation for the brands, from the top down. They accommodate all of his demands for creative control and just as sales are peaking (or beginning to slow), he leaves and they hire a replacement who can basically carry on the same aesthetic and world that he built. Think of Vacarello at YSL, he was basically brought in to continue the Hedi vision and it worked.

Hedi is a low-key designer by today's standards and he does not have a namesake label, and as many of you have noted his work and vision extends far beyond the clothes and campaigns, he is involved in strategy and distribution too. That makes him easier to replace in theory, because the new designer remains low key and the brand image doesn't change much. It feels continuous, but the foundation is Hedi's 360-degree vision and strategy. I want to say he'd be a good strategy and brand consultant, but the fact is all his work feels very 'him' so he'd be quite limited in that regard.
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Hedi leaving DH and YSL is a « concours de circonstances ». We can’t possibly say that they accommodated all his demands there. They did as much as they could but there were some limits: Arnault wasn’t going to let Galliano go just for Hedi’s eyes and Pinault already made the dumb mistake to give YSL beauty to L’Oreal.

However with Celine, Arnault did accommodated all his demands.

He is a creative director in the classic, pure form of the word. He is like those heirs of Karl who built an identity of a house. Tom, Alber, Nicolas, Christophe Decarnin and others, that’s what they did essentially.

I still think his way of operating can hurt brands on a long term. Essentially, the magic of his success is the hype and the short tenure. It also forces houses to gamble on talents really.
You cannot go for a big fish after Hedi because the house is growing and you cannot invest in changing everything again.

In a way they are clever at looking at someone from Ralph Lauren. Essentially, Celine is an elevated French, Couture infused Sportswear house. Considering how good Phoebe’s offering was in terms of merchandising, it can be a good idea.

NoInvite said:
Another point to look at, maybe he's setting up a new kind of example for creative director here?
If he's demanding royalties of the sales, is this something that has been done before in fashion? I mean if the brand grew to a certain amount perhaps you as a creative director are entitled to some sort of reward system. If you look at how Celine is operated, he "is" the brand now in 2024 from product to image to communication to furniture. It's like taking a stake in what you do, maybe CDs like Sabato or Daniel Lee should have this kind of initiatives too.

If you look at it this way, I would want to negotiate too if I were him.
Kudos to him for standing up to Bernie A. #teamHedi
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Karl is the only one. He touched royalties on the « Chloe » fragrance created under his company while using the name of the company he was working for and for the fragrances of his own line. He touched Royalties on the Fendi logo he created up until LVMH acquired it ( from what I have heard, he made a ton of money for that obviously) and his own brand wasn’t his own…So he touched royalties on that too.

For Hedi to demand such a thing, he would be mandatory for him to be part of the creation of the entity.

When Hedi or any designer of his caliber works with a group like LVMH, it’s two companies under contract and not one quote on quote individual with a company.

I wouldn’t be surprised that Tom perceived royalties from the fragrances he launched at Gucci. He was business savvy enough to have negociate that kind of contract with Coty
 
Nimsay said:
Im literally texting people right now that celine is over. It is over. Telling them to suspend purchases and possibly do returns.

On to the next.
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People here love their drama,
If it's confirmed, on the contrary, I think I will buy all my wishlist at Celine Homme (mostly Romys in all size and colorways), it might not be the same tailoring after his departure...
 
dont understand why people need to suspend purchases or do returns if a brands gonna be unhyped/out of fashion due to changing designers. Usually when they are changing a designer i liked, i would do a small shopping spree to make sure i have everything from that designer that i liked. Hedi's Celine aren't "investment" pieces to have to suspend purchases or do returns.
 
tourbillions said:
dont understand why people need to suspend purchases or do returns if a brands gonna be unhyped/out of fashion due to changing designers. Usually when they are changing a designer i liked, i would do a small shopping spree to make sure i have everything from that designer that i liked. Hedi's Celine aren't "investment" pieces to have to suspend purchases or do returns.
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It's absolutely ridiculous lol.

I imagine the texts having the same urgency as this:
 
Chanel or quit.

I am so done with these revolving door brands. I know the average customer is not always completely plugged in to who is designing for which brand and when - but the instability and chaos of the last 5-10 years at all these brands is the OPPOSITE of luxury. It's so insanely messy and short sighted. And they're all struggling...it's not like any of the problems have been solved for these houses and their financials by shuffling all these designers around. It all seems to get worse and they just continue to thrash around more, making it a bigger mess for themselves.
 
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why does anyone think he is a good fit for Chanel. Did everyone forget about karls dreamy collections. It wasnt always just about tweed jackets and basics. He will not offer anything new fashion-wise and i dont think Chanel needs a rebranding like what he did with celine or ysl. Chanel needs someone more like NG at LV.
 
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