Helmut Lang F/W 2024.25 New York

[liberty33r1b]

I just hope the real Helmut Lang never sees any of this, what an insult to his work

 

[youthinasia]

It would be iconic if he came back to do his brand again for a few seasons to show them how it’s done and leave a-la Jil Sander

 

[TerraVera]

bring back shame!

an anachronistic copy of a copy, it is so blatant, like what in the Kafka-dystopia is this? he's making costumes at this point. at least update the copy, put some white out on it, smh. lazy.

peter's HL is the farfetch of the season. all the archive original HL, celine, balenciaga, rick owens, etc you couldn't get your hands on... here ya go. here are your halloween costumes of fashion's past glory. become a relic this season though his clothes and interpretation of the house and other houses. you have many options. be a proper knockoff queen! but don't fool yourself. zara will come out with something better in a few weeks or months so really save your money for that. we are at the point where NYFW is a economical petrie dish of tepid, hapless talent more confused and misguided than before. this is anarchy. somebody at the CFDA gotta reel it in.

maybe he should go work for zara. go where you will shine and if that's at a fast fashion copy machine, then so be it. get money. no pressure. be the best unoriginal copy of a copy of a copy you can be. shameful.

 

[Delleone]

Laundry bag lineage. Alaïa’s spring 1991 collection in collaboration with the now closed Parisian department store, Tati. In Paris, the zip-up laundry bag is known as a sac Tati and comes in a stylised dogtooth rather than plaid. To all you lazy journos out there that really ought to know better!

Helmut Lang’s version came along much later in spring 2003. Phoebe’s take debuted a decade later for fall 13. A roughly 10 year cycle.

Fashion feeds on pastiche and “homage”; so long as you add your own spices your dish might still taste pretty good, fresh even.

This season’s sophomore effort was better, if a bit lugubrious, paired with some dubious make up choices and bad lighting that made the models look like they were coming back from a really hard night out. But I’ll definitely go take a look in-store.

(Vaiora Stroganoff closed the show. She’s shaping up to be the house muse. Terrifyingly tall, a bit bonkers but quite lovely.)

 

[philophile]

Other than those influencer people who only think of Helmut as punky high fashion for intellectuals/artists/Patti Smith and hang a poster of a Mapplethorpe photograph on their wall, who is this for…???

This is a massive overestimation of these influencers, because there is not one genuine pinch of appreciation for high culture and intellectualism in them. The fact that one can actually make a caricature out of them posting the same exact artists, paintings, architects, photographers, books, and even music says everything. These are impostors without an ounce of personality. They make me cringe.

On the topic of the thread, I've been an avid Peter Do follower and fan since even long before he released his first collection, but these collections for HL have left me absolutely cold (I am not crazy about his namesake label's last collection either) . They are insanely boring and lack the subversion that made HL so appealing to many of us. He's definitely too respectful of the DNA of the house yet at the same time it feels completely contrived and forced (I know this sounds like a paradox, yet that's what it seems).

This is honestly so disappointing, because I genuinely thought he was one the most talented out of all from the new generation of fashion designers. PD x HL made sense, it had the potential to be something great, but it was beyond forgettable.

 

[Urban Stylin]

Astonishing that it took him one season to copy some of the most recognizable Phoebe Philo CÉLINE designs with the "Chinatown market bag" plaid prints and utterly bastardize them with the HELMUT LANG moniker.View attachment 1248368
source: Pinterest

In his defense, its also known as the 'Ghana must go' and am sure even in India it does have a name and I've seen designers making apparel and accessories from it for a while now.

 

[Lola701]

Ironically the best look in here is the gown with the round neck. It looks similar to a Celine by Philo dress from fall 2017 if I remember well. The only difference is that the Philo version had fringes…

That aside, what can I tell about this collection….Questionable fit, questionable cut. It really looks on the budget.

Tommy Hilfiger is superior to that but the NYFC don’t want to hear that.

But I guess the bulletproof vests are going to be a hit!

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i just wanted to say ... i like the cast.

 

[Nimsay]

Lol wheres that lady who loves peter do.


This collection is super dated. Looks like 2014 Riccardo Rejects.

 

[runner]

whether it works as what an angel would wear.
one of the indicators of being HL.

whether it can stand a sudden absurd summons like that. and actually it has to give the angel the most unexpected image and make it unforgettable.

to have the laity core of the highest hardness that is never overwhelmed even if it collides with the most classic element.

good luck to all of you who have to do HL.


asahi

 

[gallianostan]

will the real helmut lang please STAND UP

 

[YohjiAddict]

Another misguided effort coming from a house that has made it its specialty to produce misguided efforts…for almost two decades now.

The whole vibe is very annoying, very 2008, the wardrobe of choice of the too poor for Rick Owens and “I listened to Crystal Castles before it was popular” crowd. The makeup is as questionable as those black leggings.