I have... 5 pairs of Helmut Lang Jeans. They range from the 90%cotton/10% silk, to the raw denim*, and the best of the best, my 3 pairs of 98%cotton/2%elastene jeans.
On the cutting, just get "classic 5 pocket" cut and be done with it, and if you can, get the 2% elastene jeans, the jeans are so soft and comfortable I could sleep in them. Like others have said, they're a non-flash jean, subtle washes and no identifying marks, save the lack of identifying marks

. Timeless, utterly beautiful, I can't recommend them enough. I'm usually an ebay spendthrift, but when I saw a few different pairs of the 2% elastene's at a store in Seattle, I got one of each (the bill was around $800, which is crazy for me). Worth every penny; writing this post makes me want to go buy some more. Oh, and I'm not gay
*The raw denim jeans I don't recommend, they're a bit stiff for casual wear, and are a pain to clean, since you can't wash them without severe shrinkage.