Crying Diamonds
Geometric Discharge
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2008
- Messages
- 7,296
- Reaction score
- 4
January 24, 2009
Véronique Nichanian treads softly but carries a great big stick, courtesy of a company that continues to post downturn-defying results. Her menswear is subtle to the point that one wondered at the necessity of showing it, with fanfare, in the high-security UNESCO building last thing on a Saturday night. Then a nubuck crocodile coat swanned by, and such doubts were suspended.
There is a perverse little flame burning in Nichanian's bosom. Navy and charcoal are the refuges of the trad Hermès man, the BCBG gent who would as soon be caught naked on the Champs Élysées as wearing the wrong tie. While Hermès still services such a customer, Nichanian has carved herself a quirky niche in the new luxury world. The accent colors she chose for Fall were tomato red and an acid yellow, which trooped out in a cabled turtleneck, gabardine trousers, and as a whoosh of nylon in a raincoat and a voluminous parka. But the yellow was always shown in partnership with something much more sober—a charcoal double-breasted suit, say, or something in navy. And the raincoat also appeared in khaki and red, two colors with a long track record of complementing each other. Nichanian's khakis had a distinctly military edge this season, which—again—suggested she is sneaking little messages under the luxury radar. Maybe even the Hermès man will need to fight for his frills.
— Tim Blanks [at men.style]
style
this collection
No matter what people say but this is truly one of the best menswear collection of the season - full of items I'd be willing to pay for .... a lot ...
