Hermès Designer Lemaire Resigns to Focus on Own Label *Update* Nadège Vanhee Hired

[Razzer]

oh LORD WHY! This man made Hermes relevant to me, He understood luxury in such a refined and tasteful manner was my highlight of Paris for last couple of years, lets just hope lemaire's label gets even better with his new focus and time. If they get some up-shot designer who just wants to spin on trivial accessories and disposable trends to make the brand more "young", I will be beyond disappointed.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Though it seems fairly certain that Olivier Theyskens will go to Oscar de la Renta, it would be pretty fabulous to have him at Hermes.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes.

Olivier could bring that type of luster back to the label. His sense for the romantic, and of the dramatic that is never OTT-- and combined with the unmatched luxury-capacity of the Hermes, could produce wonders beyond just a personality-lift .

Lemaire is a good designer, but yes-- I do also find his aesthetic lacking a strong personality. They're great and timeless individual pieces that work very well for the discerning and stylish woman with an individuality, and maybe it's best for him to concentrate building that sober sensibility for his own label.

Gaultier, at his best and most refined, with that restrained sense of mature luxury-- mixed with a subtle sense of his humor-- the Birkin-signature lock on leather corsets, epitomized the modern direction I really appreciated. Hermes had a personality with Gaultuer. And with Martin as well, who brought a much needed graphic, minimalist edge, to such a classic label. These two are the different faces of the same coin. They were ideal for leading Hermes as a visionary of high fashion. I see Olivier in the same class as these two.

 

[anlabe32]

Pity, he was perfect for Hermès. Good luck at his own brand though.

 

[HeatherAnne]

I may get laughed off this forum for this suggestion... but I honestly think Hannah Macgibbon would be magic here, and has that same traveler spirit to her designs that Lemaire brought back to the house. Granted, she'd have to be better than she was at Chloé... but people are spitting out Theyskens, and he himself has a lot to prove after his mediocre run at Theory.

--

If they get some up-shot designer who just wants to spin on trivial accessories and disposable trends to make the brand more "young", I will be beyond disappointed.

I too really, really, hope not.

--

Bottom line: It's going to be extremely hard to find someone with his level of good taste and sophistication.

 

[Marc10]

^Omg I though the same thing about Hannah! Her three best collections for Chloé (Fall 09/Spring 10/Fall 10) had this great 70's luxury, mature yet super feminine quality that would work really well for Hermès. But yeah she'd have to step it up.

 

[MulletProof]

Kudos to this guy.... everyone should prioritize self-growth and working on their own label (providing they have or want to have one) instead of wondering 'what other ancient house with an established legacy and aesthetic that's not mine and I have limited say on can I design for in order to be taken seriously?'. This is why fashion's so irrelevant everywhere you look at it these days, because companies first go after the talents that are somehow floating on their own (not even talents for the most part- just someone with curator skills), only to suck their energy, fill it with fear and discard them when they "mess up", making the sole idea of investing on them without the validity of a big name so unviable. It's sad the generations of the 19th and 20th century did allow some folks to build from scratch creative micro worlds out of the times they were witnessing, but oh not now, we need to use the people that could be doing that (for equally deserving generations) to redefine, readjust, revive, rewind, replay what happened then, because actually creating is a 'risky' investment. Which is interesting because of all fields that pride themselves on movement, fashion's by far the one that's plagued by this conviction of the 'never seen before', the "newer than you" syndrome, and yet most of it is rehash and while fields like science, music, art, civil engineering, all happily take new forms and get playful, fashion keeps getting closer in dynamics to religion and parliament structures (well, they wish-- more like antiques roadshow). Not saying we need crazy changes when at the end of the day it comes down to bottoms and a top, but just like you don't see Tim Hecker for Beethoven or Justin Bieber for Abba, it would be nice to see this one field quit the obsession of designing for a "legend" as a form of credential and go back to letting designers design instead of being allowed to timidly play with someone else's archive. Rant over.

I love big houses too.. in a museum.

 

[TaylorBinque]

I may get laughed off this forum for this suggestion... but I honestly think Hannah Macgibbon would be magic here, and has that same traveler spirit to her designs that Lemaire brought back to the house. Granted, she'd have to be better than she was at Chloé... .

Totally agreed with you on this. I actually like what she did for Chloe. It would be more refined but the study of Hermes backstory could help that too.

Lemaire was just the right match for Hermes. It's a bittersweet farewell. Wish him best at his own line.

 

[t-rex]

Hannah MacGibbon or Bouchra Jarrar would be great! We certainly need more women at the helm of womenswear... Stefano Pilati would also be a great fit too... Zac Posen must be waiting at his phone again

 

[donyan]

Kudos to this guy.... everyone should prioritize self-growth and working on their own label (providing they have or want to have one) instead of wondering 'what other ancient house with an established legacy and aesthetic that's not mine and I have limited say on can I design for in order to be taken seriously?'. This is why fashion's so irrelevant everywhere you look at it these days, because companies first go after the talents that are somehow floating on their own (not even talents for the most part- just someone with curator skills), only to suck their energy, fill it with fear and discard them when they "mess up", making the sole idea of investing on them without the validity of a big name so unviable. It's sad the generations of the 19th and 20th century did allow some folks to build from scratch creative micro worlds out of the times they were witnessing, but oh not now, we need to use the people that could be doing that (for equally deserving generations) to redefine, readjust, revive, rewind, replay what happened then, because actually creating is a 'risky' investment. Which is interesting because of all fields that pride themselves on movement, fashion's by far the one that's plagued by this conviction of the 'never seen before', the "newer than you" syndrome, and yet most of it is rehash and while fields like science, music, art, civil engineering, all happily take new forms and get playful, fashion keeps getting closer in dynamics to religion and parliament structures (well, they wish-- more like antiques roadshow). Not saying we need crazy changes when at the end of the day it comes down to bottoms and a top, but just like you don't see Tim Hecker for Beethoven or Justin Bieber for Abba, it would be nice to see this one field quit the obsession of designing for a "legend" as a form of credential and go back to letting designers design instead of being allowed to timidly play with someone else's archive. Rant over.

I love big houses too.. in a museum.

Nobody could have said this any better Mulletproof, thank you!

 

[DANISHBOY]

The strong rumor is that Marc is taking the position ...

 

[Flashbang]

^ Womp womp womp...

 

[Thefrenchy]

Oh please, don't let this be true :ugh:

 

[HeatherAnne]

By whom, Marc Jacobs groupies? Because that sounds pretty far-fetched to me.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

It looks like Nadege Vanhee, the design director at The Row, will be taking on Hermes next.

Good for Hermes, sad for The Row

 

[vetements]

sad news.
I dont know anything about Nadege Vanhee, but it certainly will make look The Row look good, given that Hermes chose somebody from them.

Hermes is one of the very few heritage fashion house that is still so clean and has so much integrity.

Marc Jacobs helming it would be hell to me.

 

[Thefrenchy]

It looks like Nadege Vanhee, the design director at The Row, will be taking on Hermes next.

Good for Hermes, sad for The Row

Oh dear, that'd be quite "big" in a way for The Row! Just when I was thinking that someone from the brand would be good If it turns out to be true, I'll be very happy.

 

[HeatherAnne]

So happy with this, great resume!

Rumoured Hermès Successor Named

HERMÉS is close to naming departing creative director Christophe Lemaire's successor, with The Row's design director, Nadége Vanhee, said to be the favourite to take the role.

Vanhee has stayed out of the spotlight while establishing a name for herself in the industry. Before working with the Olsen sisters, she enjoyed stints as senior designer at Celine under Phoebe Philo and at Maison Martin Margiela, reports WWD. If she does take on the top job at Hermés, she would be following in Margiela's footsteps, as well as those of Jean Paul Gaultier.

image credit: aleim.com
blurb: vogue.com

 

[Rightguard]

^If the rumors are true, congratulations to her. I would love to see more women in major positions at the big houses.

 

[Wolkfolk]

She seems like a perfect fit !
She's worked with all the brands that are very close to Lemaire's aesthetic. I really hope they'll choose her. Besides it would be cool to have a fresh face in the top position of such a powerhouse.