How women dress for other women

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How women dress for other women


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Wardrobe choices can be part of a delicate social dance.
Everett Collection/Shutterstock.com



Jaimie Arona Krems, Oklahoma State University



“If you can’t be better than your competition,” Vogue editor Anna Wintour once said, “just dress better.”



Indeed, new research suggests that women don’t just dress to be fashionable, or to outdo one another when it comes to enticing men. They also dress for other women.



But Wintour’s quote misses some of the nuances that go into the outfits women choose with female friends, co-workers and acquaintances in mind. It’s not just about dressing better. In fact, my colleagues and I found that women can be motivated by another factor: avoiding the slings and arrows of other women.



The psychology of women’s wardrobes



My social psychology lab explores how women navigate their social relationships with other women. With my co-authors, Oklahoma State graduate student Ashley M. Rankin and Arizona State University graduate student Stefanie Northover, I recently studied what goes into women’s fashion choices.



Of course, both men and women consider a variety of concerns when selecting their outfits: cost, fit, occasion.



Existing psychological research on women’s clothing choices tends to center on how women dress for men – the makeup, shoes and colors they select to impress the opposite sex.



But we posed a different question: How might women dress for other women?



For over a century, psychologists have been interested in competition between men. Only over the past few decades have researchers started to seriously look into how women actively compete with one another.



The competition isn’t necessarily nice. Like men who compete with one another, women can be aggressive toward other women they’re competing with. But it’s rarely the physical kind. Instead, social scientists like Joyce Benenson, Kaj Bjorkqvist and Nicole Hess have shown that women are more prone to rely on social exclusion and reputation-damaging gossip.



So we wondered: Do women ever dress defensively – to mitigate the chance that other women might go after them?



We know that women who are physically attractive and who wear revealing clothing are more likely to be targets of same-sex aggression. For example, psychologists Tracy Vaillancourt and Aanchal Sharma found that women behaved more aggressively toward an attractive woman when she was dressed in a short skirt and low-cut shirt than when that exact same woman wore khakis and a crewneck.



We reasoned that women would be aware of this dynamic – and some would try to avoid it. So we tested this theory in a series of experiments.



Dressing defensively



First, we studied whether people would expect women to be aggressive toward attractive, scantily clad women.



We asked 142 people to read a scenario about two women, Carol and Sara, who met for coffee after connecting on a friend-finder app that was like Tinder, but for platonic relationships. We asked the participants how they thought Carol would treat Sara during an otherwise uneventful coffee date. Although the scenarios were the same, some people saw a photo of Sara that depicted her as an attractive woman wearing khakis and a crewneck; others saw a photo of her wearing a low-cut shirt and short-skirt; and a third group saw her in the more revealing outfit, but the image had been photoshopped to make her look less physically attractive.



We found that when Sara was attractive and revealingly dressed, people expected Carol would be meaner to Sara.



We then wanted to see whether women would also act on the awareness of this dynamic, so we ran a series of experiments with college-aged and adult women from the U.S.



For a set of two studies, we instructed female participants to imagine that they were going to meet new people in a professional setting, like a networking event, or at a social gathering, such as a birthday party. They were also told to imagine the event as either single-sex or mixed-sex.



In the first, we asked women to draw their ideal outfits for those events, and we later had undergraduate research assistants measure how much skin was revealed. In the second, we asked women to choose outfits from a menu of options – akin to shopping for clothes online. Each of the possible outfits had been rated for modesty by a separate set of participants.



In both studies, women chose more revealing outfits for social events than professional ones. This wasn’t surprising. But interestingly, women chose less revealing outfits to meet up with an all-female group – regardless of whether it was a professional or social setting.



But wouldn’t the more revealing clothing in mixed-group settings simply reflect their desire to attract men?



Not exactly. Not all women dressed the same for other women. The women who rated themselves as more physically attractive were the ones who chose more modest outfits when meeting up with a group of women. This supports the idea that they were dressing defensively – to avoid bringing attention to themselves and being targeted by the other women.



Because same-sex aggression is more likely to come from strangers than friends, in our final experiment we asked 293 young women, aged 18 to 40, what they would wear to meet up with a prospective female friend. Again, we found that more physically attractive women indicated that they would dress with more discretion.



Together, these findings show that women don’t always dress to impress. Nor do they dress to aggress. Instead, there’s a more subtle social dance taking place – one that involves humility, hesitance and heightened awareness.



[Get the best of The Conversation, every weekend. Sign up for our weekly newsletter.]
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Jaimie Arona Krems, Assistant Professor of Psychology, Oklahoma State University



This article is republished from The Conversation under a Creative Commons license. Read the original article.
 
So basically, it's the same as men/ This is actually a topic that is not explored enough, especially in women's magazines who you'd think would champion the discussion more often. Women dressing for men would obviously be considered outdated (and yet, it still happens!), and women dressing for themselves are more prioritsed. (nothing wrong with that.) The clothes as an armour theory is true though I think that applies to everyone, really.

I am however very much intrigued by the way women in general look at or size up one another. It's the most interesting pastime when I'm in a coffee shop or restaurant because it takes on so many different ways from subtle glances to blatant once-overs. And what's more, most of the time you simply cannot speculate what is going through the viewer's mind. It's such a mystery! I mean, it's not as clear cut as men looking at men where most of the time you can pin down whether the stares are either it's either faintly aspirational, faintly sexualised, or faintly aggressive.
 
^ that makes it boring for me, it's more fun to observe men and seeing them use some pretty basic tricks to disguise wanting to look up and down. I've also noticed that if it's a 'hot' man the one who's walking into a business, the nearby men seem to look more at women's reactions (when you'd think their reaction would be directed to the man in question)..

I think there are other factors that could've been explored more.. there isn't much information on the participants in the pdf and in my experience, age and background plays a big role in aggression.. and in the US in particular, race does too (for instance, same outfit but different race would alter reactions). I want to think they're mostly focusing on a professional environment but "Carol" and "Sara" are actually trying to make friends.. that makes their study a bit more generalized and ignores that women, just like men, go through different stages in life and this plays a role in intrasexual aggression. For example, during formative years (school, before joining the labour market) it works the other way around: dressing more provocatively, to an all-female meet-up establishes a shared aspiration and tends to reinforce friendship while the more modest ones are likely to be more ostracized.

In a professional environment, I guess there is a clear image of what's dressing appropriately and what isn't, although it varies a lot by industry and then, women/men ratio.. which makes things more complex as, let's say, a predominantly male office with heavy male dynamics will often have women dress more modestly than provocatively, but the usage of less visible elements like mannerisms or voice modulation (e.g. baby voice) can be seen as a provocation and trigger probably more hostility than an obvious, low-cut top, especially if this is worn by someone with a perceived 'disadvantage' (overweight as the study used too, but also, past her 50s, a minority, from a very low class in classist societies etc).

The cultural/race aspects are good to explore too.. they vary a lot and there are things you just can't see if you're not part of the culture, you just see the 'aggression'. I used to work occasionally with a struggling actress.. she was quite pretty (think Tanya Dziahileva) but not extraordinarily so and always showed up wearing a t-shirt and leggings. Well, an assistant that worked with me would go livid every single time and tried to build a whole case on why she was a terrible client, aided by arguments like 'just look at how she talks' 'did you see how she just entered here? like she owns the place.. it's so frustrating that NOTHING is being done about it' 'she claims to be struggling but wears lululemon? I don't think we should have any considerations for her'. Another assistant chimed in once saying she did speak 'in a certain way'. I seriously saw zero questionable actions, and nothing out of the ordinary/entitled about how "she would enter the place" lol, or how she talked. I figured that being a foreigner, I was unable to pick up the subtle nuances.. perhaps some pronunciation perceived as pretentious. Anyway, when another Tanya lookalike came into the picture and this assistant went after her too.. it dawned on me that all these girls she hated looked like her actually (like a better version and with acting as a full-time career). I think this might be more common in heavily divided societies and industries where your type alone only reads as 'less opportunities for you'.

Anyway, good to see intrasexual aggression being researched more. I think it can be just a 'stage' in social dynamics, so the sooner we talk and overcome some of these practices, the easier it is to support each other.
 
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On a more casual impression-- everybody dresses to impress everyone, to some extend.

It's not necessarily just dressing sexual/aggressive/powerful to impress/impose in the traditional status sense, but the woman who’s seemingly dressed casually in leggings and tee is impressing/dominating with her ease of physicality, face and hair. It’s much easier to wear/carry some status symbol of affluence than it is to impress with only yourself: your body and physical appearance. I’m always much more impressed by how minimally, how modestly dressed someone is in just a tee and pant— both men and women, then when they’re “dressed up”: It’s much harder to attain good skin, nice body and great hair than it is to wear whatever status-symbol-of-the day is to impress. (And I don’t mean tacky super skintight clothing on some gym Mary sort of way. Or on the flipside, gays wearing the It-shoe and carrying the It-bag to flaunt their “style” :shudder/cringe/wince:…)
 
Or on the flipside, gays wearing the It-shoe and carrying the It-bag to flaunt their “style” :shudder/cringe/wince:…)

Oh, so you're one of those gays, Phuel? See, this is precisely the sort of infighting that we (society) should put an end to. LOL.

I think this might be more common in heavily divided societies and industries where your type alone only reads as 'less opportunities for you'.

What a thing to say, :rofl:! And yet, there's certainly some truth in it because I used to think that type of passive or overt aggressive behaviour between women (and actually men as well) was only due to self-esteem. I've also had a situation where a mate of mine consistently hated on certain guys we'd meet in social settings (gallery launches are rife with this sort of thing). And ultimately the only parallel I drew between all of them was that they all had a certain background, were as ambitious and book smart as he was, with quite a few other crossover traits as well, but there was always some edge. Either they've been published or worked with someone esteemed. But anyway, it only depends on what the currency is. Is it looks, education, personality, if any of those come at the risk of being upstaged by someone in your ranks, the cage is rattled. Notice how I've not added class as part of the criteria because the social class system is subconsciously wired in all of us in England, across the board. And it has evolved in ways which other countries simply cannot begin to imagine and pretty much dictates how we think, look, and perceive to this day. So I agree that may be less apparent in a fully homogenous culture, where everyone to a greater extent share a fairly similar social and physical traits within society.

I'm with Phuel when he says that the 'flex' should never be flashy luxury or status symbols, and maybe that's why luxury went down a more muted and toned down route during the Phoebe Philo era. It allowed your own identity and sense of style to supersede designer labels Running errands in denim, a white tee and white sneakers. But...everything is from Celine. That said, you can be the most well-adjusted human being, but I'm convinced that everyone has a crutch. For some women it's handbags. something to distract from something else. I'd like a study that uncovers the outsider's perception of these women in words, just to prove how effective/ineffective said crutches actually are.
 
^^^ The gym Marys and the Birkin-obsessed gays alongside their exact women-counterparts are also common in hetero men. Hence, we’re all out to impress someone/somewhere/somehow. Even the so-called Gucci-cloned influencer that all look like mini Edina Monsoon clowns are dressed to impress someone even if they may keep insisting they’re dressing just for themselves. No one is above the need to impress others, especially more so in fashiondom.

I’m not claiming I’m above nor against such materialistic-wh*ring— otherwise why would I be on this forum… Because the gym Mary in his supertight tee and the Birkin-obsessed gay can also be absolutely interesting and good individuals— and I’m speaking from experience, so no cattiness, just being frank.

(I specifically remember holding a friend’s Chanel bag for her while she had her hands full. And I was immediately self-conscious and embarrassed— not because I was carrying a women’s bag, but because it was a huge flashy Chanel bag…)
 

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