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Discussion in 'Behind the Lens' started by LibertyRose, Jun 18, 2004.
Left: Monique Lhuiller
Right: J. Mendel
Total: 15 Looks
Photographer: Craig McDean
Models: Isabeli Fontana, Julia Stegner
Opening page: Louis Vuitton
Left: Miu Miu
Right: Oscar de la Renta
Left: Donna Karan (horrid collection, included only because she advertises a lot)
Right: Proenza Schouler
Total: 5 looks
Seasonal Review: Spring-Summer 2004's Hits & Misses
SS04 was creatively weak, with designers sending contrived notions of femininity (flapper dresses!?) down the runway that generated not much critical acclaim and even less sales. The only trends that crossed over were prints and colors. Prada's Venice-print skirts and accessories became editor's darlings, while green (Chloe) and yellow (Carolina Herrera) appeared everywhere from cocktail dresses to bags (Hogan).
A look at the Hits of the Season:
Lanvin's seamless cocktail dresses sums up the mood of the season: color accents, retro elegance, and sportiness (because it is so easy to move in). While the acid green number received much love, the highlight of the collection is the exquisitely layered (not to mention backless) dress.
Chanel's tweed-trimmed trench was epidemic last season. All versions (knee-length in khaki, black floorsweeper [shown above], white floorsweeper, and cropped-to-the-waist in black) were equivocally embrace by celebs (Madonna, Uma Thurman, and Selma Blair are reported fans) and editors alike.
Leave it to Alexander McQueen to stage a spectacular-spectacular runway presentation. Choregraphed to the musical "They Shoot Horses, Don't They?", the show came right on the heel of the revival of musicals (Moulin Rouge, Chicago) and the extravagantly layered gowns took center page in every fashion magazine. Believe it or not, there is actually one hidden treasure: the most wearable look (modeled by Eugenia Volodina) skirted the danger of overexposure and its classic design is sure to look great years from now.
Magazines would not exist without the support of powerhouses Prada and Gucci. While I was not a fan of Prada SS04, it was an ambitious collection that encompassed many a notable trends of the season: full skirts, prints, ombre/tie-dye. The Venice-print shoes, bags, and scarfs define the playfulness of the season. Gucci, on the other hand, created another trend of boleros [sp] and the shoe of the season.
Left: Chloe's emerald dress stays afloat
Right: Balenciaga's skirt suits are formfitted to perfection
Left: Proenza Schouler's figurative take on corset and easy elegance
Right: Louis Vuitton's eye-catching combination of blue and gold
Left: It is sunny side up at Carolina Herrera
Right: Hussein Chalayan's casading explosion of florals
Left: YSL's irredescent pink drop-waist gown
Right: Ralph Lauren's pleated fuschia gown
Looks that I wish Were More of A Hit:
From left to right: Narciso Rodriguez, Roland Mouret, Burberry
And now for the Misses of the Season....
The debut collection of Calvin Klein's new head designer failed to set things abuzz. The classic Calvin elements are present: neutral colors, simple shapes, wearable separates, but the look as a whole is painfully bland.
Donna Karan's spring collection was done almost entirely in orange, which is a hard color to pull off with a tan.
There are only two words for Fendi: Very Ugly.
Givenchy's bohemian innocence was out of sync.
Ungaro's dresses exemplified the major trends of the season: brightly colored, stratigically tied, Greek Goddess-y, but strangely nobody cared.
Go Go Dolls -- time to wear the pants
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier, location shoot
Models: Anne Vyalitsyna, Elise Crombez, Tiiu Kiuk
Opening page: Stella McCartney
Right: Alessandro Dell Acqua
Left: Jil Stuart
Right: Martin Grant
Left: Vera Wang
Left: Narciso Rodriguez
Right: Dolce & Gabbana
Total: 11 looks
I will NOT allow any return of Amber, Linda and Cindy but I might consider Christy.For the cover I will have Maria Carla /and Dewi ,and my elite for the editorials would also consist of Diana Gartner/Dondoe, Jessica Miller, Elise Crombez, Polina Kouklina, Ekaterina Bespatikh, Kate Moss and Alessandra Ambrossio. I would consider Tiiu, but she's a bit too wooden....
Steven Meisel is my first choice as photographer.
Clothes later on.
Id love to have an editorial called "White romance" And for July's issue.. It would be photographed on the beach and I would use models like- Jeisa Chiminazzo, Fernanda Tavares and Isabeli Fontana... On their bodies the white dresses will look great!
I will use some dresses like:
Paint It Black
Phtographer: Greg Kadel
Models: Michelle Alves, Ann-Catherine Lacrioux
Opening page: Sonia Rykiel
Left: Louis Vuitton
Both: Alberta Ferretti
Left: Roland Mouret
Right: Alessandro Dell Aqua
Left: Louis Vuitton
Right: Carolina Herrera
Right: J. Mendel
Total: 13 looks