With its debut show, in 2000, Imitation of Christ established itself as the ne plus ultra of hip. Designers Tara Subkoff and Matt Damhave had all the right friends (Chloë Sevigny was creative director) and a credibly subversive message: They would never make new clothes, just reconstruct what was already around. Now Imitation will show in Bryant Park. But that doesn’t mean the fashion Establishment has embraced it. Over the years, the line has managed to alienate the very people—namely, fashion editors—who were once intrigued by it. — Jacob Bernstein
September 2000: The first show, held in an East Village funeral parlor, sends up the “mass reproduction of thrift-store clothing.” (A vintage YSL T-shirt is graffitied bring me the head of tom ford. It’s extremely limited seating, but the lucky few, like Vogue’s Grace Coddington, are all raves.
September 2001: Models are seated in the front row, while editors are forced to walk the runway. The New York Times calls it a “hoot,” but some guests pine for their seating assignments.
February 2002: A mock auction (with editors as bidders) at Sotheby’s. The talk of the show, per WWD: Are Damhave and Subkoff “(A) shutting down their fashion line altogether, (B) busting up their partnership or © actually going to make something less expensive, that the retailers who support them can sell easily”? Answer: B.
September 2002: In an ode to Helmut Newton, half-naked models wield vacuums (noisily) in a furniture showroom.
September 2003: Channeling old-world Hollywood, Subkoff sends out models against a backdrop of Dietrich films. Plus a tap dancer who “went on for, like, 25 minutes,” recalls one attendee. “I wanted to rip off her tap shoes.”
September 8, 2004: A midtown show will be easier on editors (no more slogs to out-of-the-way runways), but also signals the final loss of downtown cred.
IMITATION OF CHRIST
DARLING of the New York scene for so long, Imitation of Christ's Tara Subkoff may have burnt her bridges this season. "Why do we keep coming to this show?" scoffed Women's Wear Daily, unmoved by a bleak political statement - involving a slideshow of images from the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, a George W Bush impersonator in the front row and miserable male models who opened the show on a catwalk adorned with political flags - that was fronted by an incongruous, seemingly endless collection for spring/summer 2005. Varying combinations of baggy shorts and T-shirts, along with plenty of Subkoff's signature Grecian tunics and gladiatorial sandals, made up the Imitation diffusion line. The main line, meanwhile, started well on a run of gorgeous dresses in blue, turquoise, grey, white and yellow (some brushed the floor with gossamer hems while others were trimmed in wide bands of gold or silver sequins). Truly romantic, but the shredded rag dresses that followed, in every colour from green to red, blue, gold, grey and orange, simply murdered the mood. Die-hard Imitation of Christ fans will have had their obsession sated, for sure, but this collection clearly didn't make many new friends. (September 8 2004, AM)
Originally posted by lunabella@Sep 11 2004, 09:59 PM
is it just me or do none of the clothes go well with the gladiator sandals?
also, is tara just ripping off kate (who was first and only to wear these sandals)?
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But just when you thought IOC designer Tara Subkoff couldn’t possibly have anything left up her proverbial sleeve, following the presentation, she debuted her new “store,” if you can call it that. On the sidewalk across from Bryant Park, she unveiled what amounted to a plexiglass phone booth, featuring one Imitation dress that was selling for $7,000, and a salesman standing by. The booth-store will move locations throughout fashion week — from the Maritime Hotel to Da Silvano — and will showcase one item a day, according to Subkoff. (Even pal Sevigny was befuddled by the scene.)
“The store is going to do a lot of business,” predicted Anderson. “Especially once you see the ratio of merchandise to retail space.”