Jacquemus F/W 2024.25 Capri

[philophile]

@FiLReD describing him as a "content creator" is so spot-on.

Looking at him and his 'work' through that lens, it all suddenly clicks for me. The meticulously curated Instagram feed, the aesthetic show locations, the occasional thirst-trap, the faux-relatable and humble personality. I can't get mad at it, I can't be bothered to write a detailed critique of his offerings, because ultimately he is just another Instagram/Tik Tok content creator appealing to the chronically online.

While I was a Jacquemus fan since his beginnings, I have to agree with this. He might be the Taylor Swift (also more of a content creator focusing on social media than an actual musician/artist) of fashion.
Had he worked on his technical skills or hired an expert of the craft to add finesse to his designs, he wouldn't fit in this category. Unfortunately, he didn't and relies heavily on marketing and 'aesthetics'.

However, he has a great eye for beauty and he is capable of being creative and different, he just doesn't have what it takes to make something that stands the test of time, of true quality and worthy of being called 'iconic'. That being said, the collection is not bad, it's just not great either, but there are a couple of beautiful looks. I personally love the all red look and expecially the one Mariacarla Boscono is wearing (I love that and would totally wear it!).

 

[philophile]

I have to confess, whenever I visit the department store that sells Jacquemus in my city... I always go have a laugh at his designs. It cheers me up.

I get that and in the past years his 'sculptural' designs have been total misses. Back when he was much more interesting than now, his appeal used to be those ridiculous, almost caricaturesque shapes, which were really almost clownish. I used to love that about him. However, now, that he is trying to play the role of a more 'serious' luxurious designer, it simply doesn't work. Not ashamed to admit I still own a couple of pieces from him from 2017 and wear the crap out of that cartoonish sculpted shoulders hourglass cropped jacket he designed back then. Paired with more serious and conventional looking pieces, it looks just like a fun, unconventional basic. He doesn't design anything like this anymore.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

 

[kasper!]

H&M version of Bottega Veneta. Cheap and tacky.

 

[cantdesign]

JWA's work clearly more than an influence here........ with a sprinkly of Matthieu. that being said, clothes are i think better than they have been??

 

[LadyJunon]

 

[gallianostan]

-"LOOK AT ME, FORGET THE CLOTHES, LOOK AT ME, FORGET THE CLOTHES...!!"

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will i get modded for explaining in graphic detail the things i'd let him do to me?? terrible designer but pwwwwoahhhh

 

[jeanclaude]

will i get modded for explaining in graphic detail the things i'd let him do to me?? terrible designer but pwwwwoahhhh

He´d better leave fashion; and start a career as a gay p*rn actor!

 

[Scotty]

Here is the problem. These ‘designers’ who can’t even sew a basic skirt. Put them on Project Runway or something!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

His shirt bothers me. That collar is just really annoying to look at.

Also poor woman. Being undercharged for her services all for him to make some extra cash and be famous. Nice to know where his standards sit even if they are pretty evident in his collections anyways.

 

[blueorchid]

I feel like I lost brain cells watching that.

 

[philophile]

I adore his shirt, because it reminds me of his initial mass appeal, which is sadly now a thing of the past. Simply put, it's like if Picasso had designed clothes. But hey, we all know cubism got a lot of hate back in the day by conservative people who favored naturalist painting, so of course, that crooked pocket will offend some 'refined' sensibilities.
The man has lost his initial charm for most of the part, but he had a creative vision and was an artist in his own right. And no, you don't have to be a couturier or an expert to be a fashion designer. That being said, I am not excusing him for not getting better at his craft or at least hiring experts, but his previous naive view of fashion didn't need it. However, those days are long gone.