I think it's a big let down for him. His previous collection was so much nicer; the best he has ever done for me. It was for once well crafted/tailored and put together.
This looks so messy/sloppy. The draping skills of his atelier are really poor. The bags and earrings are cool indeed and a few looks save this mess. Still, I appreciate his naive approach of fashion which still feels fresh in a industry where most of the designers are bored/boring with the same pattern when it comes to creation ( "let's spend a million renting pieces at Anouschkaaaaaa").
And I am French and don't have a clue of what people mean when they write "it looks super French". What's French about that ?