Jacquemus S/S 2018 Paris

[kasper!]

I see more Lacroix than Lanvin by Alber...

 

[YohjiAddict]

A bit late to comment but I just wanted to add that the way that white dress drapes around the bust is so sensual yet elegant, like something out of a painting.

Everyone and their mother has been doing dropped waists but he's the only one I've seen that's done it in such an organic, sexy way. I understand how some could take the draping in this collection as sloppy but I think it adds an spontaneity that enhances the sense of naivety and serenity that runs throughout.

 

[Deleted member 130879]

Actually very basic and pedestrian imo, but of course easily wearable. I'd expect something like this from Michael Kors.

I was already thinking if there was something wrong with me because I felt this to be so generic, so done to exhaustion. But yes, wearable (except for the hats, even models had problems with those).

And I also don't see the "french-ness" here. This screams more Monaco and Ibiza than French.

 

[Benn98]

And I also don't see the "french-ness" here. This screams more Monaco and Ibiza than French.

Oh don't worry, I also don't see it. The key element here seems to be draping which I wouldn't regard as quintessentially French, as for the rest it could easily be American imo. The type of stuff Kors and Ralph Lauren do very often. But to each their own, I suppose.

 

[mathiaskatz]

he keeps on improving. living up to his hype.

i think it's a little too soon for him to be snatched up by a bigger label. i want to see more of just him without the influences of a big label.

 

[MulletProof]

I hate how the moment a designer starts finding his own voice or just getting his s*it together in the best and healthiest outlet a designer is lucky to even have and be succeeding at, his own label, the pressure is on for him to give that up and design for the biggest curse in fashion: a major house. Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Dior.. is that what we wish on people with some sense or at least interest in being creative? to be churning out pre-fall, post-fall, pre-spring, cruise, haute couture, not couture, budget line, regular line, "tamer but stronger than last season"/"same but different" corporate requests, all with the same speed someone assembles televisions in the third world?.. let these labels have a natural death and let's celebrate those that have found (by being extraordinarily good-looking, or not) resources to build their own path.

 

[fashionista-ta]

This is really nice. Where's it sold in the US, I'm wondering?

 

[apple]

Best. Collection. Of. The. Season.
He's got the talent

 

[Spike413]

This is really nice. Where's it sold in the US, I'm wondering?

Off the top of my head, Net-a-Porter.com, Bergdorf Goodman, Forward by Elyse Walker and Shopbop.com. I could be missing some though.

 

[MulletProof]

^ lagarconne has the best selection imo.. best (too short) skirts out there.

 

[Spike413]

^ I knew I was forgetting a couple. Totokaelo carries the brand as well, although I can't speak for their selection.

 

[Benn98]

I hate how the moment a designer starts finding his own voice or just getting his s*it together in the best and healthiest outlet a designer is lucky to even have and be succeeding at, his own label, the pressure is on for him to give that up and design for the biggest curse in fashion: a major house. Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Dior.. is that what we wish on people with some sense or at least interest in being creative? to be churning out pre-fall, post-fall, pre-spring, cruise, haute couture, not couture, budget line, regular line, "tamer but stronger than last season"/"same but different" corporate requests, all with the same speed someone assembles televisions in the third world?.. let these labels have a natural death and let's celebrate those that have found (by being extraordinarily good-looking, or not) resources to build their own path.

I wouldn't personally bracket Lanvin with Saint Laurent and Dior, I think the creative demands and pressure overall seems less stringent with the former. Also, the current spate of bad reviews are certainly bound to ground not only Lapidus, but also the suits at Lanvin. If there were any suit interference with that collection (most likely), then I should think that the backlash just about encouraged them to back off and allow more creative freedom.

Major houses will always make up a big part of the fashion constellation, the only thing that should really change is the way these houses are being run and the their collection frequency. I'd rather have a young designer bringing a fresh creative flow into big houses, than an established designer who may feel too confident and less likely to expand their repertoire. I see absolutely no reason why a young designer cannot grow alongside a major house. Look at Jonathan at Loewe, or Michele at Gucci. Less collections, more creative agency, yet both houses are still profitable and relevant.

 

[Creative]

This is just nothing. Empty. Lacks soul. And all his garments look so poor and bad constructed. He is so overrated.

 

[Zazie]

Not a fan of Jacquemus, though I like last season's quirky bags.

To chime in on the debate, I do think there are some benefits for young designers to work for a big house, eg. Lemaire at Hermes, Philo at Celine, but ONLY to establish a mutually beneficial relationship by furthering their own learning, sharpening their unique vision, and to have the house accumulate a fresh sensibility.

They shouldn't stay too long though, it's much better for wealthy backers to support designers with promise than to bind them to the codes of a past, eg Chloe, which makes their designs derivative.

I truly respect Philosophy - Alberta Ferreti is so gracious to fully promote the new designer, and it shows. It's one of the freshest commercial collections I've seen yet. Ditto at Vionnet.

I dislike especially the moneyed old rich living vicariously their coked-fueled partying youth through fashion, thus never ending repetitions of the 70s, 80s, 90s, like Isabel Marant and Balmain, because these will get the editorial exposure and hype.

 

[MulletProof]

I'm way too sleepy to articulate anything rn but I'll try because.. living on the edge: what makes me a little sad is that there is very little on the horizon right now with the potential for an independent and long-lasting career similar to Yohji's.. Dries'.. someone able to build something of their own, resistant enough to the highs and lows, with its own voice and vision and most importantly, its own rhythm in creation, which to me is the biggest problem when finding someone with evident artistic talent and then subjecting him right away to the corporate dynamic, even when you think they have so much to give and are solid enough to not succumb to the pressure, the whole process is so corrupting and tainting that you end up with this robotic, cynical and smug conception of clothing design, as seen with Raf lately.

I think these houses should have design teams, they've produced great collections like that and nobody loses their job, it's good academic training and they still get to keep the prestige through PR and whatnot. It's not just the fact that they exhaust the hell out of one single designer but the way they directly and indirectly strangle the market by acquiring every and any resemblance to talent spotted in more independent venues and thus making it harder for small businesses to get established.

The issue doesn't reside only in big corporations of course, but what I think is a generational (?) issue with current designers and the priority they give to major houses over literally anything and just how susceptible they are to big money.. it comes down to values too, I am aware most of them are happy to stay burned on the grill on their own will.. and no, I don't think someone can truly grow sheltered by a house ran by someone else's parameters.. growing as a businessman or showman? yeah sure, as a creative person? not really, the same way a covers band is not quite a band.

Can I just add a quick disclaimer for my own piece of mind: I am not a fan of Jacquemus either, can't explain how this is my third appearance here .. (nice walkable heels and skirts though).

 

[disco54]

A man who understands grown women and makes gorgeous clothes for them. Easily one of the best shows of the season, in Paris all I have seen thus far are cartoonish 80s party clothing geared towards instagram skanks and fashion victims. The spirit of the YSL woman does not live at YSL now she lives at Jacquemus and Lemaire.

 

[YohjiAddict]

People complaining about the quality of this and applauding those walking taburets Vaccarello had the nerve to send down the runway, I guess a pair of black heels and stocking goes a long way into changing people's perceptions...

 

[RedAzalie]

Little off topic here but - any ideas where to but it offline in Barcelona, London or Milan?