Jacquemus F/W 2018.19 Paris

[disco54]

You know that me liking a designer doesn’t change my judgement on his work. I’ve been a critic to Slimane or Galliano while still loving them.

Ok apart from the Trio bag, i’m Sorry i don’t see Celine. There’s maybe something in the spirit, the color palette or the attitude but in terms of literal copies, I don’t see it.

And we are not going to act like Phoebe herself as a designer wasn’t a regular in making literal copies of her inspirations on the runway. But that didn’t meant that she wasn’t talented. What is important is to own something and make it your own.

Whatever might be Celine in this collection felt totally Jacquemus. And i’m Sorry i don’t see that in a lot of designers today because only a few of them have a real identity. If I can tell that «*this is Jacquemus*» with the most boring item possible, then that means that he is doing a good job.

He is building his aesthetic. Change is a part of progress and maybe that one day he will be able to totally mix his earlier stuff to his new aesthetic.

I don’t want to «*defend*» this because it’s not the most extraordinary thing ever but it touches me and fashion is about emotion above all for me.

Ps: i’m also ready for the menswear

I think nowadays anything which is fluid or has a mid late 70 minimalism influence equates to Celine, which is incorrect. IF anything this is quite YSL in spirit, the clothes actually have easy glamour about them and reminded me of Halston in the 70s but obviously modernized for today.

 

[Koibito]

According to BOF, he's gonna launch menswear line.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Oh God— more full-size pants, droopy drape-y tops and hoodies with “L’Homme Jaccquemus” on everything…

He’s so painfully overrated. Which means he fits in perfectly with this era’s brand of overhyped designers with an extremely extremely extremely limited range.

This is nice enough. If you take away the name Jacquemus, this brand of clothes can be from any given local designer shop in any given city. They’re nice, basics that can be had anywhere. He’s decent enough when it comes to dresses, but just so frighteningly limited once he has to expand beyond simple, fun,sexy dresses.

The insistent of the big, floppy straw hat and the mini-bag is so embarrassingly gimmicky and blatantly shows how desperate he is to be recognized. Yes,we get it— they were a big hit for you last season. Move on.

(BTW, he’s not unattractive— but some of the swooning over his looks LOOL … But I’m sure Benn thinks I shouldn’t talk, since as far as he’s concerned, I’m only into trashy rednecks from Florida...)

 

[disco54]

Why is he so popular? Everything looks like Zara. There is no creativity, interesting tailoring, vision. Its like young designer from New York trying to be Phoebe Philo.

You answered your own question, Zara copies his designs of late.

 

[Lola701]

The other reason of his popularity has a lot to do with where he comes from. He is from Marseille and that city and the south of France has never been really represented in the fashion community since Lacroix.

Marseille is really considered in terms of style as The city of a certain idea of French tackiness (Cagole) with Cannes and St Tropez...etc.
Mlle Agnès was really the one who discovered him and fell in love with his personality and she is really an important figure here.

His aesthetic might not be new but it is refreshing in the French fashion landscape. From that he has really been supported by the Parisian fashion community. Karl has said great things about him, Loïc Prigent and then the LVMH prize.

Now, he has a big machine behind him. I kinda see him as an equivalent to Alexandre Mattuissi. Alex may not be a great designer but he understand some things and has found a way in a market to exist. He is also heavily supported by the press... Even if he comes from the big brands.

 

[gossiping]

talk about hype

thats all i have to say

 

[333101]

Very very beautiful collection but above all, very necessary collection at this stage for Simon.

What some of you guys don’t understand is that not every fashion show has to be about wild ideas or something like that. It’s good to sometimes put things back to perspective.

Jacquemus is independent and in terms of price range, it’s contemporary... So you can hardly find pieces that cost more than 1000€ from him. The challenge for him at this stage is to create clothes that are easy, practical, wearable in a woman everyday life while still being coherent to his aesthetic. And he succeeded!

This looks like a Jacquemus show and it shows a great level of maturity from him...Something that we don’t find in a lot of young designers. I still don’t know who is the Off White, Christopher Kane or Mary Katranzou woman (and I still don’t think they know themselves) but I know who is the Jacquemus woman. And the fact that he can express it with just a knitted top and a draped skirt is a great achievement.

The biggest challenge also for him was to upgrade the construction and i’m sorry, in order to be taken seriously, there’s nothing better than simple, boring and plain tailoring. The shoulders and lapels are great!

Yes it’s not groundbreaking but it is good enough. I love it. His woman is confident, cosmopolitan and relatable.

Very very good collection! Now he needs to work even more on his construction. He has a great potential.

Ps: He worked in the retail for CDG. Let’s not pretend that he was in anyone’s team lol

Very well said! I totall agree.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

In my point of view, he is hijacking the Celine aesthetics to tell his own history. Sometimes its looks very Celine but IMO his clothes have another narrative a very different approach. Much different of VB and Proenza that wanna do the exactly same thing that PB did, in the end its very unnatural.

Jaccquemus woman is like the young sister of the Celine woman, but she lives at French riviera, smiles to everyone in the street, she is funny, everyone loves to be around her and that is the type of fashion that we need now: very relaxed and unpretentious.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Hold up, the ones saying he's hot??? TaylorBinque, explain yourself! I don't see it! Pretty average, imo. And the teeth....

I understand about the teeth! I mean he's an eye candy. And the healthy tanned skin. Okay, I'm shutting myself off now. On another hand, I am very curious of what he will do his menswear. I really hope it reflects the womenswear and doesn't just have elevated basic items like the sweater wore. (He would also be welcome taking a bow shirtless.)

 

[jeanclaude]

You know that me liking a designer doesn’t change my judgement on his work. I’ve been a critic to Slimane or Galliano while still loving them.

Ok apart from the Trio bag, i’m Sorry i don’t see Celine. There’s maybe something in the spirit, the color palette or the attitude but in terms of literal copies, I don’t see it.

And we are not going to act like Phoebe herself as a designer wasn’t a regular in making literal copies of her inspirations on the runway. But that didn’t meant that she wasn’t talented. What is important is to own something and make it your own.

Whatever might be Celine in this collection felt totally Jacquemus. And i’m Sorry i don’t see that in a lot of designers today because only a few of them have a real identity. If I can tell that «*this is Jacquemus*» with the most boring item possible, then that means that he is doing a good job.

He is building his aesthetic. Change is a part of progress and maybe that one day he will be able to totally mix his earlier stuff to his new aesthetic.

I don’t want to «*defend*» this because it’s not the most extraordinary thing ever but it touches me and fashion is about emotion above all for me.

Ps: i’m also ready for the menswear

For me it happens just the opposite. I see this collection and the first thing that comes to mind is "Céline". The coats, the stylism, the bags (add the leather tote with raw edges), the colours and fabric choice, the slightly oversize fit...and I know Phoebe didn´t invented the wheel either; but she has a recognizable style of her own.

A style that I can also see in this collection, obviously not from Jacquemus...but from Phoebe. There´s no a single element that screams "Jacquemus" here to me.

 

[jeanclaude]

I think nowadays anything which is fluid or has a mid late 70 minimalism influence equates to Celine, which is incorrect. IF anything this is quite YSL in spirit, the clothes actually have easy glamour about them and reminded me of Halston in the 70s but obviously modernized for today.

Céline´s 2010 minimalism is not the same as 70s minimalism.
Of course it derives from it; but when I see Halston I don´t think about Céline at all. The same way happens when I see 90s Calvin Klein...I don´t think about Céline either.

Can´t say the same about this Jacquemus collection.

 

[disco54]

Céline´s 2010 minimalism is not the same as 70s minimalism.
Of course it derives from it; but when I see Halston I don´t think about Céline at all. The same way happens when I see 90s Calvin Klein...I don´t think about Céline either.

Can´t say the same about this Jacquemus collection.

Then you should look at old magazines and familiarize yourself with fashion history, especially of NY designers like CK and Halston in the mid late 70s. Phoebe Philo's aesthetic in itself has always been anchored in that late 70s feel.

 

[jeanclaude]

Then you should look at old magazines and familiarize yourself with fashion history, especially of NY designers like CK and Halston in the mid late 70s. Phoebe Philo's aesthetic in itself has always been anchored in that late 70s feel.

I already have done that, thank you very much!It´s not like I´m 20 y.o. and you have to teach me about fashion.

And I insist: Céline´s minimalism is not the same kind of minimalism as Halston or CK. Even if it shares the same style, each designer version of minimalism is different.

To give you an example, Halston´s minimalism had the "sex" factor in it. Phoebe´s minimalism doesn´t.

 

[billiejbob]

I'm slightly disappointed by this collection but to be fair, I think we all had super high expectations. It's just a bit too basic for what I was expecting.

He's still a rising star designing under his own name so I think there's still plenty of time for him to grow.
Plus, sad to say, I think people are right in saying that because of his charming good looks people like him a lot more. If he was considered less attractive then I doubt he'd get so much hype. Sad but true.

I definitely see the Celine comparisons too but I have no doubt he'll find his footing.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Basic collection, he'd be wise to keep his shows atmospheric and somewhat naive, now that everyone tries to be Margiela people have forgotten about Yohji and that's a 90's nostalgia gold mine yet to be exploited...I find his looks pretty average to be honest, then again I've never heard him speak so I can't tell if he's charming or not.

 

[simon]

I like it. Fresh, breezy. He kinda lost it in the end for me though. I think that naive charm, which at the start of his career I associate his work with, is still there, but his passion and excitement just happen to be more contained now. I agree that he's still evolving, but I think the best is yet to come for him.

 

[Les_Sucettes]

I do not see any Celine, nor do I think it was his intention, it looks clear to me that his inspiration is indeed 70’s design and in some instances quite literally. Nonetheless very chic.

 

[GreyVetiver]

I understand about the teeth! I mean he's an eye candy. And the healthy tanned skin. Okay, I'm shutting myself off now. On another hand, I am very curious of what he will do his menswear. I really hope it reflects the womenswear and doesn't just have elevated basic items like the sweater wore. (He would also be welcome taking a bow shirtless.)

I have a feeling that his menswear would resemble Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

I have a feeling that his menswear would resemble Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe.

Probably, but JWA menswear at Loewe have a lot to mature. Simon menswear will be much more about grown-ups mens with a active lifestyle, for sure, so I think that maybe we will have two very different visions in June.

 

[HeatherAnne]

File under: clothes you'd actually want to wear in a dream life. By far the best collection of the season for me. So sexy.

He missed out on Celine, he'd be great at Hermes.