Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris | the Fashion Spot
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Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2020 Paris

Best show of the whole season! The playfulness from JPG collections was lost in the last years; but it is back here in this amazing retrospective of his work.

It feels more than just a "greatest hits", it is like a "Director´s cut" showing tons of new contents and alternative versions on his most famous looks.

The only show I am gonna watch from this HC season. And a big "f.u.c.k. you" to all the boring marketing-driven corporations which rule the fashion world nowadays.

And I wasn´t expecting much from him...
 
There are a lot of spectacular clothes here...clothes that we’ve all been dying to see from him for years now! It’s too bad we’re getting them now, at his last show!

But, at the same time, it’s good he’s wrapping things up, and choosing to proceed in a -as of now, unannounced- new way.

As fun of a show as it was, it reminds me also of what went missing from his brand a good decade or so ago...real, smoldering sophistication and sensuality. It all got rather kitschy and jokey as of late, and I appreciate that he’s having fun, but I can’t help but prefer and feel nostalgic for his shows from the late 90’s and early 00’s that somehow balanced the humor and joie de vivre with a bit more of a serious and glamorous tone.
 
I’ll always be thankful/grateful/humbled by this visionary’s untouchable talent that’s been ripped off /homaged/tributed countless times, and his 40+ years of an incredible archive will continue to be ripped off.

And it’s just wonderful he’s leaving this mess of an industry exactly his way: Every single person should be so humble and leave before they’ve overstayed their welcome. But this finale is a tad too Eurovision for my taste. There’s a lot of that impeccable and immaculate HC tailoring, but there’s also a lot of camp and Eurotrashy styling. I’ll gladly revisit his many many many past brilliant shows and collections— starting with the stunningly unreal/surreal/real real “Rabbi Chic”. I just wish those old shows weren’t what looks like 72p quality….
 
A fabulous show, a fabulous moment and real testament of his popularity and of the love people have for him. Everybody was there...From fashion people to entertainment people, from influencers to clients and even managers from his closed-a-long-time-ago stores from all over the country.
In terms of popularity in France there’s only two people that have that status: Karl and Jean Paul. But Jean Paul is in a more extreme way!

The collection was great and fun but to be honest the moment itself was surreal. It was classic Gaultier, full of inventivity and fun. It’s not my favorite Gaultier collection and for me nothing will ever beat the Genius of his 90’s/00’s Couture collection which were full of charm and humor...

This was a condensed Version of what Gaultier has been for this past decade: someone who brings people together, who fully embraced his popularity in a most cheesy way, who treated his Art as a theater and who made a jump of doing his own « Freakshow ».
There are some designers who never had his influence, his popularity or success but who are beyond pretentious.

In a very political time where important issues are used as marketing tools, it’s fair to remember that the overall narrative of inclusivity, diversity, gender neutrality, women empowerment, queer culture’s celebration has always been there with Gaultier with no agenda.

Back in the 80’s, when designers looked like traders, he broke the rules and became popular with it. When the Prada model of casting for the shows was in full force, he was the only one, with Riccardo, booking black models for both Gaultier and Hermès. All shapes and sizes always had their spot on his runway...He did all of that without capitalizing it with « Woke Merch » like MGC.

As a designer and an influential master, he gave us a lot of talented designers: from Alexandre Vauthier to Nicolas Ghesquiere and of course Mr Margiela.

So, it was a fabulous celebration of 50 years of career. I was at his retrospective show in 2006 and it was great to be there 14 years later.

The next chapter is quite unclear to me but basically, he will do upcycling Couture. On the show note, he said that this collection is his first upcycled Couture collection. He will use his archives and fabrics he has collected from his travel to create Couture. So in a way, he is roots of Arte-Povera but with the Savoir-Faire and the techniques of Haute Couture. This is his last fashion show but not his last collection...

Im a bit worried because I hope he won’t completely transform all his archives. I hope that they will create an archives website to feature all his shows...The kids needs to learn!

And it was sad to see the greatest runway model, Tanel, walk the runway for the last time..
 
I love it, all of it. It's magnificent and fun and full of life as his fashion as always been. talk about going on with a bang! The spectacle his career deserved. I'm so gonna miss the life that emanated from his every collection, even the tamest ones.

sidenote: really shameful that vogue.com can make space for 200 identical looks that come from every dior show season after season, but only has a selection of the looks presented here. WTF?
 
In a very political time where important issues are used as marketing tools, it’s fair to remember that the overall narrative of inclusivity, diversity, gender neutrality, women empowerment, queer culture’s celebration has always been there with Gaultier with no agenda.

Back in the 80’s, when designers looked like traders, he broke the rules and became popular with it. When the Prada model of casting for the shows was in full force, he was the only one, with Riccardo, booking black models for both Gaultier and Hermès. All shapes and sizes always had their spot on his runway...He did all of that without capitalizing it with « Woke Merch » like MGC.

This has always been of my favorite things about JPG and i couldn't have said it better myself
 

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