A fabulous show, a fabulous moment and real testament of his popularity and of the love people have for him. Everybody was there...From fashion people to entertainment people, from influencers to clients and even managers from his closed-a-long-time-ago stores from all over the country.
In terms of popularity in France there’s only two people that have that status: Karl and Jean Paul. But Jean Paul is in a more extreme way!
The collection was great and fun but to be honest the moment itself was surreal. It was classic Gaultier, full of inventivity and fun. It’s not my favorite Gaultier collection and for me nothing will ever beat the Genius of his 90’s/00’s Couture collection which were full of charm and humor...
This was a condensed Version of what Gaultier has been for this past decade: someone who brings people together, who fully embraced his popularity in a most cheesy way, who treated his Art as a theater and who made a jump of doing his own « Freakshow ».
There are some designers who never had his influence, his popularity or success but who are beyond pretentious.
In a very political time where important issues are used as marketing tools, it’s fair to remember that the overall narrative of inclusivity, diversity, gender neutrality, women empowerment, queer culture’s celebration has always been there with Gaultier with no agenda.
Back in the 80’s, when designers looked like traders, he broke the rules and became popular with it. When the Prada model of casting for the shows was in full force, he was the only one, with Riccardo, booking black models for both Gaultier and Hermès. All shapes and sizes always had their spot on his runway...He did all of that without capitalizing it with « Woke Merch » like MGC.
As a designer and an influential master, he gave us a lot of talented designers: from Alexandre Vauthier to Nicolas Ghesquiere and of course Mr Margiela.
So, it was a fabulous celebration of 50 years of career. I was at his retrospective show in 2006 and it was great to be there 14 years later.
The next chapter is quite unclear to me but basically, he will do upcycling Couture. On the show note, he said that this collection is his first upcycled Couture collection. He will use his archives and fabrics he has collected from his travel to create Couture. So in a way, he is roots of Arte-Povera but with the Savoir-Faire and the techniques of Haute Couture. This is his last fashion show but not his last collection...
Im a bit worried because I hope he won’t completely transform all his archives. I hope that they will create an archives website to feature all his shows...The kids needs to learn!
And it was sad to see the greatest runway model, Tanel, walk the runway for the last time..