Jean-Paul Gaultier : Pre-2000

US Vogue September 1994
"Fashion's Mavericks"

Models Nadja Auermann, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Shalom Harlow, Naomi Campbell, Amber Valletta, Niki Taylor, Mike Campbell & Unknowns
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Stylist: Grace Coddington
Hair: Orlando Pita
Makeup: Denise Markey



source | voguearchive via justaguy


 
A pic from his first couture show. Who’s the guy in the background with the beard?

 
^I love getting glimpses of designers at each other shows, fashion can be so ruthless and it's nice being reminded that great designers are not blind to the greatness in their contemporaries' work.

Bonus points for designers walking the show like Vivienne Westwood walking a Yohji menswear show!
 
^^That’d be a cool thread: “Designer appearances in other designer’s shows.” I remember a few designers showing up at Raf’s first couture show at Dior, and I know that’s not the only case. Anyways, I’ll let Benn98 handle that :wink:
 
Jean Paul Gaultier RTW Spring/Summer 1984, Part 2










artsandculture.google
 
Jean Paul Gaultier RTW Spring/Summer 1984, Part 3






artsandculture.google
 
Goldmine of a find @blueorchid! But it’s awful LOL Circus clownwear with clownhair— like a jester’s take on Yves and Matsuda. Seems like he didn’t strike his stride until 1985, when alongside Les Rita Mitsouko, that distinct Gaultier look was finally created.

Nice to see Inés.
 
Yes - you see the seeds of brilliance, but very clowny.

For me, Gaultier was at his absolute best once he started Couture. From that moment until Spring/Summer 2008...basically a flawless run. Fall/Winter 2008 Couture is when he somehow slipped back into clowny, draggy fashion. He lost the chic and never really got it back after that.
 
^^^ You’re being too kind— it’s rather generic 80s, frankly.

The collections leading up to his Couture debut were all a stellar masterclass in inventive but classic tailoring, dressmaking and fabrication, starting with the unspeakably gorgeous A/W 1997 showing (…"Harlem Renaissance”?), that offered boxy, oversized suitings— but cut so skillfully to flatter the wearer, and in that stiff, slick, shiny material that shouldn’t work, but Gaultier’s Rumpelstiltskin IRL. Looking back, I’ll always adore the “Rabbi Chic” collection that showcased such a distinct aesthetic that was richly darkly and culturally layered and still brimming with beautiful separates. That era of which he was firmly planted at Hermes and his Couture, truly was him at the top of his vision; as were the majority— if not all of the industry, from designer to photographer. Then unfortunately, like them all, he regressed and fell back to the worst aspects of his pop sensibilities. And I can’t think of a single designer who's never regressed and fell to their worst, poppy sensibilities. Some just have the good sense to bow out before they become more of a caricature.

 

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