Julian Roberts Productions (Nothing Nothing etc)

Congratulations on everything, Julian! It sounds as though everything went absolutely swimmingly. Thanks for posting all the videos etc. :heart:
 
I am amazed by your work, Julian! I wish I was in you class. I think I would really learn lots of things from you. Too bad teachers from fashion school in Romania are so far away from your ways of thinking...
All they want to see is sketches. They don't teach you any cutting or sewing techniques, whatsoever.
Love your work and can't wait to see what you'll do next.
 
I am amazed by your work, Julian! I wish I was in you class. I think I would really learn lots of things from you. Too bad teachers from fashion school in Romania are so far away from your ways of thinking...
All they want to see is sketches. They don't teach you any cutting or sewing techniques, whatsoever.
Love your work and can't wait to see what you'll do next.

A lot of what is taught at university is complete rubbish.
Keep hold of your own personal enjoyment of fashion, believe in yourself and your instincts, and keep making things as often as you can for yourself & friends:
The more you make, the more design/cutting/sewing will merge together, and the more sense everything will then make.
The greatest designers honed their skills by beating their own individual pathways, not by following a set curriculum or course map.
Use your time at college to access facilities & equipment, listen to what the tutors have to say, but don't accept it all as being 'gospel truth'... if you think you can find a better way around a problem then go for it! Have fun. Explore. Experiment. Enjoy the opportunities you have.... work fast, time is continuously running out, and push as far beyond the requirements of the brief as you can: If they don't teach cutting or sewing techniques at college, then it's up to YOU rather than the college to seek out & explore those skills.
When i was at uni the best teachers weren't the ones who taught me anything, they were the ones that encouraged me to have a go myself & believe in the possibilities.
I believe in you, so have a go!

Thanks for your kind words.
Thanks to 'SomethingElse' too
blush.gif

Xj
 
That is exactly what is so amazing about you: your personality and your down to earth attitude. Teachers at my school think so much of themselves, you can't really have a right talk with them, they think they are too good to waste their time with you. And they expect a certain thing, so then when you go and do your own thing they just disagree and do not encourage. I study painting, and it unfortunately happened to me: because of my teacher I really started hating school and painting and everything I once worked so hard for. Teachers are so important for a person's development, but here the teachers are hired at that University just because of the social relationships they have (seriously, all teachers at my school are somehow related: father-daughter, husband-wife, and so on!) so they don't really care about teaching or students. They don't even come to class everyday. They come like 2 or three times a week, tell you what you have to do and then you get stuck with the assistant who has completely other ways of thinking than your teacher. So it's like, you are stuck and confused and don't really know what to do. And you end up hating it and not enjoying what you once loved so much....
That happened to me with painting. But I guess in a way, it's good, because I started making clothes, like cutting my mom's dresses and making like 3 tops from a dress, or from my dad's silk shirts I used to make dresses, then I got some fabrics as a present and so I started doing more and more...and I love it! It's amazing to have an idea, start doing something, and then while you are working and trying it on...to find out ways of improving it and making it more interesting. In the end it doesn't resemble the sketch...but that can be a good thing:smile:
I completely love your open mind and way of thinking. You are like million miles ahead compared to the teachers at my school, even if I don't really know you, that I can say for sure. So, you had to start teaching because of life and stuff, but I only think of how many lucky people you influence and support, and I am sure it's in the end it's all worth it!
Thank you so much, i can't wait to try and use the tunnel technique! I will most certainly get back to you with photos:smile:
Thank you so much for being the [even if virtual] teacher I always wanted!
 
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Julian, I was checking the links in my sidebar and I notice that I get a 404 if I try to go to the pattern school site (http://www.blowpr.co.uk/JULIANandSOPHIEsite/school/index2.htm).

Do you have a better link for me?
thanks so much
hi Kathleen,,,, hope u are cool & well............
yep, very well spotted, i stuck in a password on the subtraction cutting pages just to see who actually uses it or would ask to...... so between the two of us, the TOP SECRET password is: bananamilkshake and the access address is: http://www.blowpr.co.uk/JULIANandSOPHIEsite/school/
however if u want a direct link avoiding the high security razor wire, drawbridge & dogs then just go directly to:
http://www.blowpr.co.uk/JULIANandSOPHIEsite/school/bananamilkshake.htm
for ease & comfort.
Just keep it to yourself, wink wink,,,
:smile:
jX
 
40 Dresses Cut in 1 Day !!!!!

Here are 36 of the 40 dresses cut today with 1st BA Fashion students at the University of Hertfordshire, using my Subtraction Cutting techniques.

Was a pretty EXPLOSIVE day!

(Lovely bunch of people too:smile:

40dressesX1day.jpg


jX
 
RESIGNATION MINUS ONE : My only regret as Professor

For three years (June 2004 -September 2007) i worked as a Professor, setting up the new BA Fashion school at the University of Hertfordshire in Hatfield, UK.
It was a fantastic experience: i love teaching, i love demonstrating, i love ripping things up and stripping away all the sh*t that prevents art&design education from being useful or challenging.

I resigned TWICE.

In retrospect, my only real regret is that i did not resign THREE TIMES, or more accurately that i didn't resign prior to these two resignations.

I'll call this particular missed-opportunity: 'RESIGNATION MINUS ONE'.

As a Professor, it is expected of you to deliver an inaugural 'Professorial Lecture' in a theatre sized auditorium, in front of a large audience of invited students, industry guests, academics and university dignitaries.
This is usually a good opportunity to introduce the audience to your work/research, to justify your pedigree/pay grade, and to outline your vision for the future.

I delivered my Professorial Lecture in June 2006 to an audience of about 400, entitled "Against the Grain - Adventures in Creative Pattern Cutting".
It was set in three parts: a speech, a live cutting demonstration, and a finale with questions & answers.
This all took place against a video backdrop i edited, and you can see these 3 videos later on, further down this page.

But before you see the real Professorial Lecture, which was devised and written in 1996, i'd like to show you the first draft of the speech i wrote in June 2005, and fill in some of the blanks.

Firstly, public speaking COMPLETELY TERRIFIES ME.
I do it quite often, I regularly talk to groups of 50+ people, but every time before hand i feel like doing a runner or collapsing in a heap and playing dead!!
Up until the very second before i start talking, i feel completely out of control, my hearts racing, my palms are sweating, my breath becomes shallow, my stomach becomes tight, my head sometimes spins, my mouth becomes dry. But the second i start talking, everything evaporates in an instant, i see myself stumble into view from a slight distance, i hear my own words break the silence of anticipation as if they were someone elses words, and regardless of whether i make sense, or stutter or trip over my words, or forget what i'm saying, i just continue regardless, chatting away, talking my little heart out, until eventually either i exhaust myself, or someone in the audience dies.
Afterwards i have the most amazing adrenalin highs, as my body reals from the after shock.
As time goes on, i can see how people get addicted to this kind of hit, but the terror never entirely goes away.

So from the beginning of my Professorship i was always scared shitless about having to deliver a Professorial Lecture, and i quite probably built it up in my mind into something much more worrying than it ever needed to be. It's easier for me to see that now in retrospect, but at the time it was a very big deal, and i look back on the lecture i gave as being a very big achievement in my life in terms of overcoming my own personal fears of public speaking/performance.

Prior to giving my lecture, early in 2006, my mum died.

I had always hoped that she and my dad would sit in the audience to see their son in full academic combat, but unfortunately neither were able to be there. (Don't know what my dad's excuse for not being there was exactly, but my mum's was pretty water tight!)
At her funeral i read out a Eulogy i'd written, feeling the same kind of intense terror at public speaking as i've always felt, but in that emotional moment my spoken words connected with the gravity of the situation, the audience were reduced to tears, and after that epic experience my Professorial Lecture became a real stroll in the park.
I had a picture of my mum sellotaped to the lectern from which i was reading during my lecture, in order to remind me of what really mattered to me, and help maintain a focus.

But the lecture i delivered in June 2006 was not the lecture i originally wrote for in June 2005.
Back in 2005 i'd been sleepless with worry thinking about the lecture i had to give, and about wanting to write something that really came from the heart.
At the time i was incredibly angry and frustrated by the utterly stupid manner in which education is managed and organized these days, and the way in which the university heads and academics 'quality control' (aka 'KILL') the subjects they flog to students.
One night i woke up in the early hours and banged out a speech in one go, written as i intended to perform it, as a public resignation speech.

Between writing this first speech and delivering the actual lecture (a period of 12 months) i changed track drastically: i decided rather than delivering a speech that attacked the system, and biting the hands of those who fed me, that instead i would look on the positive side at my own personal skills, and demonstrate IN PRACTICE how design can be used to help raise confidence through a DIY approach to making things, as a sort of 'antidote'.
The subject of my lecture was about 'CONFIDENCE', and my lecture became a symbolic 'hurdle' to jump over, in front of an assembled audience of spectators, to show that i too am still learning, honing my skills and striving to overcome my own personal fears.

But the first speech i wrote still very much holds true, and i am now going to release it for the first time, albeit on blogs on MySpaz & TFS rather than on a stage in an auditorium in front of a audience of students & academics:


Professorial Lecture, University of Hertfordshire, de Havilland Auditorium

(enter stage right)

I cannot trap my self in advertising either myself, this course, this university or education.
Standing up here on this stage, looking down on my students.
I see so many happy tired indifferent apathetic faces.
I cannot lie to you.
My mother & father and their parent's generation defined themselves through hard work and labor.
They paid for this docile work-shy generation, and continue to pay as our debts mount up.
Universities aren't the same as they used to be & nor is education.
They are machines for distributing diplomas.
What does the paperwork we distribute really confer?
What value is there in your studying here?
Universities are now an industry, they simulate industry, seek customers & funding competitively, cut overheads & teaching costs in drives to be more efficient, quality assess themselves to give value for money, advertise to increase revenue, partner themselves with industry to win grants, sponsorship, and government funding.
A university is a half-way house between (school) education and industry.
But they are also places where not enough real work happens.
Universities protect students from work, from the real world of labor.
In the fashion industry skill, hard work, determination and luck are all that matter.
The industry does not applaud students, it disrespects them.
And quite rightly so.
Because students aren't made for industry, not properly prepared for it. They spend their time at university wastefully, doing projects, essays, learning skills they only half understand, completely out of context from their true application.
The fashion industry views students as lazy, as unrealistic, as half-formed, they say you can't cut, that you can't sew, that you lack business awareness, that you're full-of-sh*t basically, and mistreat you for your pretense. Industry doesn't suffer pretense.
At university you are given timetables & deadlines & expected by minimum requirement to have a good stab at reaching them. If you partially fail, then you partially succeed at the task. If you fail almost completely then the grades go low enough to give you the benefit of the doubt. Failure doesn't look good on the university's record.
I can't stand up here on this platform as a Professor and truthfully tell you that education is the route to success. That would be a lie.
Similarly I can't simply watch as universities pat themselves on the back for their success rates.
You students are wasting your time at university.
A degree certificate is now a valueless piece of paper.
And you parents are wasting their hard earned money paying for your education.
The industry doesn't need students with qualifications, it needs hard workers.
People who understand the job in hand, who dedicate themselves to getting the job done, who can make things that sell, who can innovate, understand the product & market, and have the motivation & drive to make things better.
The payback comes in a wage packet.
Workers change the world, students do not.
Do not be so naive as to think of yourselves as either revolutionaries or high achievers.
The assessment criteria on which you are being judged are the minimum requirements of success. On the borderline of adequacy.
If you want to be the best, and if you want to stand out from the crowd, and really leave your mark on the world: Then get out there into it and stop wasting time at university, train within it, learn from those who are the professionals.
Education encourages the worst characteristics in students: laziness & disengagement.
You'll enjoy a pint or WKD far more after a hard days work bought with your own money.
Lecturers & colleagues, you should all be ashamed of yourselves.
You work in fear of losing your jobs, space, budgets, support staff, you drive up the numbers to meet your targets, making your lives miserable in the process, allowing yourselves to be trodden on by the administrators & business heads, regulated, pressurized, unable to teach effectively, complicit within a system that pretends to give qualifications equal to your own.
You are lying to this generation.
Telesales would be a more admirable occupation.
You should not be giving lectures to this generation on how to achieve success, when you are ill equipped to deliver on those pledges.
To my own students I lecture this:
For three years I have given you advice and support: some of you listened others have not.
The fashion industry needs workers, but only those prepared to dedicate themselves to it: who are prepared to work hard, push beyond the boundaries of the brief, and transform expectations. Success and fulfillment awaits the deserved few.
There are over 3000 fashion students graduating every year in the UK. Thousands will leave college with exactly the same meaningless qualification as you will: you are not special.
I give advice and training to students all over the world, and mentor designers in industry: you all have my number and I will always be available to you to give realistic advice for free.
It's up to you to make your future, to get up off your ***es and do something meaningful with your lives.
Education does not deliver that, it's something you have to find within yourselves.
You are not children now: You owe it to your parents and grand parents to make successes of your lives, and grab hold of responsibility for yourselves.
You are the future and the world is at your feet.
It is with great conviction and honor that I resign as your Professor.
I cannot work within a system I have no belief in.
I recommend you all leave too using the door provided.

(exit stage left)


('Resignation Minus One' written by Professor Julian Roberts, Monday 6th June 2005, 3.36am, copyright 2005)


The reason i am releasing this now is because:

inside the introductory speech part of the video of my actual Professorial Lecture (June 2006 version, video Part 1 of 3), there is a moments hesitation just after i say the words "I am as proud of this place and what we are achieving here, than anything I have ever done."
The look on my face is like this:

l_6cb06683c60049db9b40eb0723da9130.jpg


Every time i watch the video, i know that this expression hides a particular truth, and that as i surveyed the audience my face was unable to conceal what my real thoughts were, on the 'best work i have ever done', or indeed the 'best speech i ever written', as in that moments hesitant frown i am remembering quite clearly:
That my previous speech was actually the much better of the two!



Anyway, this has to be the longest introduction EVER to a video, so here are the links to my June 2006 Professorial lecture and Subtraction cutting demo... parts 1,2 & 3:

FOR BEST VIEWING I RECOMMEND ALLOWING THE VIDEOS TO FULLY LOAD BEFORE PRESSING PLAY:


Part 1 - The Speech
http://julianand.blip.tv/file/478015/

Part 2 - The Subtraction Cutting Demo
http://julianand.blip.tv/file/478307/

Part 3 - The Finale
http://julianand.blip.tv/file/479017/


Julian X

PS.
I've just UN-DESIGNED my website:
http://www.julianand.com
 
Hi Julian
I've been following this thread for a while now. I appreciate you taking the time to post all this info and your videos and comments

What you just wrote is something I have been thinking about since the start of the school year
I am in my last year of a 2-year program, studying textiles. We do a lot of work in our program, we learn lots of techniques, it's quite fast-paced. I could continue for another 2 years at another school in the east to earn a degree --I'm reconsidering it now though because like what you've written here, I'm actually fearful of the idea that there might not really be anything necessary for me to learn in school, like we may do projects (or essays, assignments, etc.) which have nothing to do with the direction I want to take in my own work. I felt this was one of the things I didn't like at my own school. We have learnt so much and been taught so much in our program, there is enough I could work on, to improve on for a long time for my own work.
The only thing is that the other school is right in a big city and close to other larger cities; and there are a lot of opportunities there, through the schools, esp in terms of fashion/design
At the same time I'm scared of leaving, I won't have the support of other teachers or students (I don't really connect with the majority of the students in my classes even), but I guess it's all about keeping up with and making your own contacts... going to fairs and lectures, interning with other designers/artists, visiting studios, taking workshops, getting your work out there, etc.

So I suppose I will just go to that city on my own, not as a student

You have shared a lot of great advice here, Julian

julianroberts_00 said:
Then get out there into it and stop wasting time at university, train within it, learn from those who are the professionals.
 
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Cutting demo at Basso & Brooke HQ

On Monday i popped down to South L'andan to visit Chris Brooke & Bruno Basso in their studio, and meet their very talented pattern cutter Kara Messina

Basso & Brooke are two of my favorite London designers, and i've been lucky enough to witness their development and upward trajectory from close-up since just before their first show, through my association with Blow PR, my friendship with Namalee Bolle their super show stylist, and as an independent film-maker shooting their catwalk shows at London Fashion Week (see below!).

This time around i was there to give a personal demonstration of my 'Subtraction Cutting' technique, and to learn a bit more about their working methods and set-up.
It was fascinating from my perspective to see some of the new garment shapes in current development, to talk about their inspiration for the coming season, and to have a preview of their mind-blowing new digital fabric prints, shown by Bruno on the biggest computer monitor i've ever seen!:smile:

It was also great to leave behind a black Tunnel Technique dress cut from 7 holes, which has become my calling card, and to talk about new approaches to cutting and design.

Basso & Brooke are a very open minded creative team, with a real enthusiasm for design that is infectious to witness, and i think they are very deserving of the attention and praise they have so far received.
Their clothes remind me of the romance of 80's Galliano (when he was actually good) and mid 90's Gaultier, but their appreciation of craft and their pushing forward of print technology positions them very much in the here&now, with a uniquely identifiable aesthetic and positive outlook.
I wish them a TONNE of good luck!

Here are my favorite bits so far...

bassobrooke.jpg



... and here is my '5 show melange' shot for SuperSuper Mag, which continues to grow...


BASSO & BROOKE = 5-Show Melange


Xj
 
The arguments in my speech were very much directed at UK educational establishments, as that's what i've had most experience of.
It's up to you and other students/teachers/designers in your own countries to weigh up whether or not these opinions also ring true.

Make your own decisions, don't believe the hype or tow the line, and always question the relevance of what it is you are being taught, and at what personal cost to your future development.
College is not the only place to learn!
If you do go to university then transform the subjects/modules you study on and push their boundaries outwards, to suit your own burning ambitions and enthusiasms.
Your portfolio, skills & contacts are far more valuable than any meaningless degree certificate!

..... I'm reconsidering it now though because like what you've written here, I'm actually fearful of the idea that there might not really be anything necessary for me to learn in school, like we may do projects (or essays, assignments, etc.) which have nothing to do with the direction I want to take in my own work.....
So I suppose I will just go to that city on my own, not as a student
 
i will spend a week doing CUTTING DEMOS in Herning, Denmark from 6-11 January at TEKO university,

and two weeks at the Glasgow School of Art in Scotland from 13-18 January and 27Jan-1February.

I'll be back in London for London Fashion Week in Feb.

check my website for blog links/contacts: www.julianand.com
 
thanks for your new posts and responding to my question, julian :smile:
 
Hey USA!

before this thread dies for good, i'd like to just say:

For the whole of October, I am doing a garment cutting tour of America, giving demonstrations in: San Fran, LA, Chicago, Kent Ohio, Indianapolis, and New York.... with other cities/venues likely to be added/up for discussion.
Organization is currently well underway & growing apace.
I will be showing new ways of cutting that anyone can learn, and also presenting&talking about my fashion/video/graphics/web work.
There will also be a private view show of a special collection i will be bringing with me, somewhere on route.... city/venue TBC.
I'm really excited!!

if you want to come see or meet me in person, or add to this growing event... email me!: [email protected]

Xj
 
I have been trying to convince local schools and organizations to take this on so you can swing through Toronto... they are a very hard sell though - they worry that not enough tickets will sell to cover the fee. Knowing the scene here, I have to reluctantly agree that their fears are prudent... still...

I wish I had enough for the fee, I'd bring you up here just for my own benefit... as it is I may be able to scrape together enough to see your show in NYC...
 
Good to see you around here Julian, always look forward to your new creations. :flower:
 
Julian Roberts USA cutting tour

I have been trying to convince local schools and organizations to take this on so you can swing through Toronto...

Hey Danielle..

That's very sweet of you thank you, i hope to keep coming back to the states after this Octobers tour and do some business there, and it would be great to take in Canada too one day soon. What i'd dearly love is to bring over a collective of designers and some bands and mix it up with some local talent like the SuperSuperShow i direct at London Fashion Week... a bit like a traveling fashion circus:smile: But that's for the future................
I'll keep you posted.
jX


Thanks Zazie!:smile:
 

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