McMenamy is one of the great models. She will do anything in the pursuit of a great picture—and has. Today, McMenamy is the story, and she is unsure about the clothes she will wear to be herself—the best version of herself, for a feature about herself, in which she has nobody to please but herself. Still, she wants a good picture for the photographer.
This is what distinguishes her from many other models, and it's why so many photographers want to work with her at age 48—even when models literally half her age are considered "old" in the industry. McMenamy breaks all of the rules; she defies all conventions in her pursuit to be the best at what she does. There are almost no lengths to which she will not go.
McMenamy generally likes to work with photographers she has known well over many years. She likes to work with the best. Besides Knight, she has long-standing working relationships with Juergen Teller, Steven Meisel, and Tim Walker, among others. And before Richard Avedon and Helmut Newton died, she had particularly fruitful working relationships with them. They have all aided McMenamy in her pursuit of the perfect picture. This is not a self-centered pursuit; a perfect picture is not one that will necessarily make her look beautiful, or pretty, or nice even. It is simply a great photograph. This is why she has been part of some of the greatest fashion images of all time. She is acknowledged as one of the greatest actresses in still images.
Of course, this pursuit could drive you slightly mad—and you don't even get an Oscar at the end. When I first met McMenamy in the flesh, on a shoot three years ago, she was slowly being strangled by a boa constrictor. At the time, she declared, "I'm fine! I like it." The stylist, Nicola Formichetti, was trying to get the attention of the animal handler by shouting, "Mr. Snake, Mr. Snake!" (Formichetti had, of course, forgotten the man's name.) "The snake is killing her, Mr. Snake!" This, incidentally, was another Nick Knight shoot.
"That was nothing," McMenamy recalls today, during her latest, gentler shoot with Knight. (The photographer is known for pushing his subjects hard, in the nicest possible and most polite of ways. Helmut Newton, on the other hand? "Well, he was a meanie," according to McMenamy.)
Photographers have put her through the wringer—or rather she has put herself through the wringer. For a Mert & Marcus shoot she was thrown into a deep tank of water after a bondage expert tied her arms and legs together. She has appeared somewhat battered and bruised for Juergen Teller. "He was more upset about those pictures than me!" she says. It was during a shoot with another photographer that she actually obtained those injuries, later finding out she had a broken collarbone. For McMenamy, the only question that remains: Is the picture good? If so, then fine.
In real life, away from the photographic reproduction and the catwalk version of herself, McMenamy is not that different. She brings a disarming honesty and truthfulness to everything she does and says. "I have really gotta be myself," she explains."I can give someone a bit of what they want, but only a bit."
She is tall, slim, and strikingly beautiful—and not so much the unconventional beauty that she has often been made out to be. Her spirit, her sense of freedom, her slight dorkiness, and her honesty are her most unconventional qualities. They are also the things that have stood her in good stead and make her instantly likeable. And despite her being in the second wave of true supermodels, with a fearsome reputation preceding her, McMenamy is somebody that you feel quite protective toward. While it might be a slightly bigger and more extreme version of herself that appears on paper or under the klieg lights, it is also one that appears vastly more confident. That is why, it seems, it takes time to be her.
"I need constant feeding of my self-esteem," she says matter-of-factly, in her disarmingly honest way. "I am so insecure, which also makes me a great model. I know it is for that reason. I am constantly trying to prove something. If you give up, if you think, 'I'm great,' then you're dead. You're dead! If you think, 'I'm great and I have nothing else to prove,' then you have nothing else to prove. You just go away."
"I will always try to be better," McMenamy says. "At 48, I think I can be better. I'll think I can be better than at 28. I will be better! And I will always feel like that. Modeling has been my life. I love acting as well, but this has been my life."
"I can say that fashion is my family. That might sound stupid to a lot of people, but it is a big part of who I am. It's my family."