Lanvin F/W 2025.26 Paris

[lhhbl]

The show video:

Really changed my mind after watching the show. All the pieces are beautiful, wearable and look luxurious

 

[Phuel]

Pretty solid indeed. I like how he makes the heavy dresses look so easy, elegant and comfortable-looking. And the references to Alber's best years at the label.. 💔..

Now, unrelated and just an observation from one ESLer to another.. how is 'but still, what a couture experience!' connected to the note? is there a blue square missing? 'but still' makes it sound like something went sour when he's just describing an internship...

LMFAO Your ESL is superior to 95% of Americans whom English is their only language. (And yes-- “But, still…” is the snide equivalent of “On a positive note…”.)

Annoying video-editing aside, it’s one of those offerings that may not be memorable as a leading vision— since there isn’t a hint of the typical gimmicks, tricks and SM/editorial baitings that’s infested presentations these days in sight. But as separates, there’s quite a generous offering of wardrobe investments presented-- and not a pretentious whiff to sniff. The gorgeous luxe materials, the classic YSL opium-fueled sombre rich palette, the quality-dressmaking and precise tailoring, the ageless silhouettes. His crime is unfortunately that all his sophisticated efforts also remind you of other designers’ and as mentioned, mainly what Clare had been doing. But still— it’s a concise presentation of mature dressing from a skilled dressmaker who’s eschewed TikToky flashiness for a cohesive real-life wardrobe. Hopefully there’s a customer who can sustain this sort of highend wardrobe staples. The Olsen twins did it — and they did it with an awful name that conjures images of a 50cent project to boot. This Lanvin era needs a supreme campaign to give it a fighting chance.

The men’s however, is utterly useless. It’s just the women’s basics worn by skinny guys. Maybe there’s a customer in the form of the 20yo twink who dresses like a 50yo Truman Capote golddigger out to snag a 65yo husband… But they already dress like this, carrying their it bag of the season on the hunt….

 

[tourbillions]

he really is the male equivalent of Claire Waight Keller.
similar vibes like her Givenchy. some nice ideas here and there, but something is always missing.
the wow factor, the newness, the urgency of a must-have.

nothing feels as desirable that you dream about owning one of these garments, even they look okay and well made.
it's like your favorite tv series that you binged like mad at the start and loses it's steam as fast as the actors change. so you still watch it because of the good old days, nostalgia yep, or because there is nothing better on tv at the moment. but for sure they cancel the series two or three seasons too late.
let's give him 2 to 3 years to enjoy his paycheck (hope they pay good) before he he will be out and hopefully as lucky as CWK start working for Uniqlo.
he might be good for the holiday collections there

yeap giving "design director" vibes. This is the type of collection a good design team would produce. But there's focus, no pov, just an inoffensive collection. It's good to revamp the image of lanvin but not sure about growing it.

 

[JohannesL]

I would rather have him continue what he did at Nina Ricci and ODLR because the new Lanvin is only better than AZ factory, but he is no better than those designers post-Alber for the brand.