Layering F/W 06.07

[Avant Garde]

Hermes F/W 06
vogue.co.uk

 

[kay_couture]

the layerd look *

i love the new layer trend .. which consists of long tanks under short tees and so on here is one of my favs .. its from garage clothing .. they come in all colours *

edited: please see tFS guidelines (missing picture credits)

 

[nextnewface]

^ Eeeeeeveryone has that tank top here. I like the layered look if it's done well.
​

 

[kay_couture]

agreed with u there .. it looks bad if people over do it .. so many people have those tanks .. and there selling well .. somebody should make hoodies like it ( hint hint ) if somebody has allready done it .. id buy it

 

[Lena]

some cute layering looks from the wwd issue of today..

the layering club
NEW YORK — The more the merrier, at least when it comes to legwear. This fall, designers are taking leggings, tights and legwarmers and piling them high, creating a look that's very cozy, not to mention stylish.

Photos: Talaya Centeno
source: www.wwd.com

 

[Bixby]

I didn't think I'd like this look but the Hermes pictures look beautiful (#21)

Avant Garde - thanks for those

 

[kay_couture]

i love the 3rd pic .. i would wear it

 

[alwaysacitygirl]

I've always been a big fan of layering, but the Marc Jacobs layering is a little tooooo homeless-guy-off-the-street-trying-to-stay-warm for me.

 

[kay_couture]

i agree .. lol . i dont like it when it looks like that .. but i do when its simple and classy and not overdone

 

[Stylebites]

...but the Marc Jacobs layering is a little tooooo homeless-guy-off-the-street-trying-to-stay-warm for me.

I keep telling people the same thing. (Though I did like the "mongolian" feeling balloon pants in the collection...)

 

[kay_couture]

Me 2

 

[The_Ida]

I really, really love the Hermés-thing with an oversized cardi belted and worn as a dress, with another oversized cardi on top. Sigh.

 

[kay_couture]

yea its a good look

 

[Avant Garde]

Balenciaga / Bruno Pieters

C'N'C / Calvin Klein

Celine / Chaiken

 

[Avant Garde]

Chloe/ Marni

Chanel / Daryl K

Haiderackermann / Hermes

Karl Lagerfeld / Isabel Marant/

LAMB / Louis Vuitton

style.com

 

[Avant Garde]

Marc by MJ / Marc Jacobs

Max Azria / Miu Miu /

Prada / Richard Nicoll

Sari Gueron/ Ports 1961

United Bamboo / Valentino

Wunderkind/ Veronique Branquinho

style.com

 

[IAmEllie]

ooooh, i can't wait to try this. i'm actually just really wanting the weather to get colder so that i won't burn up underneath

 

[DosViolines]

source: nytimes.com

August 17, 2006
Fall Fashion: A Special Issue
Piling on Allowed

Alyson Aliano for The New York Times
FIRM OPINIONS Chiara Clemente, above, in a Vuitton rib-knit dress with puffy silk skirt, $3,976; Rick Owens jacket, $830; and a smoky topaz necklace from the House of Waris.

By CATHY HORYN


THREE years of decorous frills and happy endings on the order of a Douglas Sirk melodrama have finally come to an end in fashion. Now, according to Marc Jacobs, Yohji Yamamoto and other spoilers of trends, the look is dense, layered, anti-romantic. It is the first attack on the banality of aspiration dressing; seeing the model Daria Werbowy in Mr. Jacobs’s leopard-print skirt layered over baggy pants and leg warmers doesn’t make you want to trade up. Besides, even if you did, what would you encounter? One of the Desperate Housewives?


Still, as welcomed as layering is, it presents problems to a lot of women. For one, they don’t have Daria’s long legs. Chances are they also don’t have Mr. Jacobs’s stylist, Venetia Scott, to help them compose casual yet harmonious looks. And if they have curves, as most women do, the extra padding can make them feel vastly transfigured. “You might as well be the next Michelin Man,” Fabiola Beracasa said.


Ms. Beracasa, a socialite who works for an estate jewelry company, was one of three women invited to road-test the new style. It was a Wednesday at Barneys New York, which offered an array of clothes, shoes, gloves and belts — but, more crucially, a realistic setting for appraising, and struggling with, a new outfit.


The other women were Chiara Clemente and Leigh Lezark. Ms. Clemente, a daughter of Alba and Francesco Clemente, is petite, with fair skin and naturally curly hair. She is a filmmaker whose latest project is a documentary about Richard Tuttle. Miss Lezark is a D.J. with the MisShapes, which hold popular weekly parties. She has jet-black hair, a friendly aloofness and, exactly at the age (22) that Edie Sedgwick appeared in Life under the headline “The Girl With the Black Tights,” a similar sense of her times. She likes to work in five-inch stilettos, minidresses (or long tops) and black tights, and she once wore a bathing suit bottom with an oversize top.


Some cheating was necessary. Although each woman seemed to know what she liked, it helps to have the perspective of a stylist. Andreas Kokkino, who until recently worked as assistant to the well-regarded stylist Bill Mullen, rounded up some of the primary layered looks for fall: chunky sweater dresses, lace leggings and oversize coats from Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton; wide trousers and masculine jackets from Yohji Yamamoto; boxy coats and flaring miniskirts from Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga; and lots of odd separates from labels like Vince, Dries van Noten and Rick Owens.


Before the women arrived, Mr. Kokkino, 29, reckoned that Ms. Lezark would go for a short plaid Balenciaga jacket with a matching miniskirt, or maybe a strapless gray wool Vuitton dress with a frothy silk hem. He thought Ms. Clemente might pick something from Marc Jacobs, and he felt certain that someone would go for one of the dramatic oversize coats.


That’s what he thought, anyway. He could not have been more surprised.


Ms. Beracasa was the first to arrive. She speaks with the energetic conviction of someone used to working on committees and socializing a great deal. (In fact, the next day, in the Hamptons, she took part in a competition that required her to skydive and paddle a kayak.) As she went through the racks of clothes that Mr. Kokkino had put in the communal dressing room, she said she liked the new masculine tailoring, but observed that the trouble with layering is that it’s not sexy.


“Marni is never a guy thing,” she told him.


Mr. Kokkino nodded. “Yeah, O.K.,” he said.


She took the Balenciaga plaid jacket and mini. “Cute, right?” Ms. Beracasa said as she went to change. “It’s so me.”


Ms. Clemente picked the strapless Vuitton dress, which she put with a skimmy Rick Owens jersey jacket and a wide belt. Though delicate-looking, Ms. Clemente knew her mind. She could not be bossed. She liked a Vuitton tweed jacket with a wide dimpled collar and decided, after much experimentation, that it looked best layered over a simple blue-gray turtleneck and a pair of J Brand jeans with leg warmers and Marc Jacobs stilettos. Her body was too small to handle much layering, and the wide collar was enough of a statement.


As Ms. Clemente turned her attention to a long jersey skirt, Ms. Beracasa stepped out in the Balenciaga outfit. All the people in the room, including Mr. Kokkino, politely shook their heads. The skirt was too short and girlish for Ms. Beracasa’s womanly figure. Unfazed, she put on her next choice, a pair of superwide Yamamoto trousers held up by a belt on the inside the waistband. It was a far more daring look, in a way, than the Balenciaga. After trying on several tops, including a filmy white shirt by Ann Demeulemeester, she settled on a classic Dries van Noten cardigan (leaving the buttons half undone), a short Yamamoto jacket with vented sleeves, and a crumply fur hat. She looked pleased.


Later Mr. Kokkino said: “My preconceived notion was that Fabiola was going to be the most difficult. But she was the one who really went for the layering. Those big pants and that short jacket looked great on her. You’d think that someone with her curves couldn’t wear oversized trousers, but they’re elongating. And she still has a waist.” Indeed, as Mr. Kokkino noted, no one wanted to sacrifice her shape to a fashion trend.


“It’s funny,” he said. “I picked out all these weird knickers and skirts, thinking they would be perfect, and none of the girls went for them. They still wanted to show off their legs. They still wanted a nipped-in waist.”


Ms. Beracasa agreed with that assessment. “With all these trends, I don’t think it’s an age issue so much as a body issue,” she said later. “If you’re busty, you have to be careful with layering. You can look ridiculously top-heavy.” She added: “I loved those pants. I actually want to buy them. I’d wear them to work with a button-down blouse — tight and little, with a thin little cashmere vest.”


MS. LEZARK, whom Spin and New York magazines both put on 2006 lists of tastemakers, turned out to be the most unpredictable. Dressed in a vest with a T-shirt and Topshop hot pants, she arrived with Geordon Nicol, a member of the MisShapes, and after looking over the racks, she told Mr. Kokkino that the clothes were too old for her.


That has to be crushing to a few designers.


She and Mr. Nicol, with Mr. Kokkino, set off for the fourth floor of Barneys. Almost immediately she found a shaggy black fur vest from Givenchy and a long gray Comme des Garçons cardigan with puffy Juliet sleeves. She didn’t have any bottoms.


“That’s O.K.,” Ms. Lezark said mildly.


Mr. Kokkino ran to the lingerie department and returned with a pair of black satin tap pants trimmed in black lace.


“Perfect,” Ms. Lezark said, slipping them on over her black tights. She put on a pair of Balenciaga clubfooted platform shoes, and set off across the floor six inches taller.


A teenage boy who had been watching the photo session with a desultory interest suddenly came alive. “She looks amazing!” he said.


His reaction says a great deal, in fact, about fashion today, about the divides between young and old, between clothes that truly attempt to reflect cultural diversity and those that submit to the aesthetic of money. Mr. Kokkino pointed out that although Ms. Lezark’s outfit was modestly layered, it incorporated the trend of wearing something bulky on top with “sticks for legs.”


Fashion designers like Hedi Slimane of Dior Homme have looked to the MisShapes for influence, just as the press once used Edie Sedgwick as a radar of style. But listening to Ms. Lezark, it’s hard to see how or why she would she care about the exquisite refinements that interest stylists and editors.


When Mr. Mokkino suggested she might look good in a floor-length Marc Jacobs dress in a double layer of brown lace, Ms. Lezark smiled vaguely.


“Yeah, I’d wear that,” she said, “but I’d cut it off.”

Alyson Aliano for The New York Times
‘Perfect’ Leigh Lezark in a Comme des Garçons sweater with Juliet sleeves, $675; Givenchy alpaca and fox fur vest, $9,190; Balenciaga platform ankle boots, $1,495.

Alyson Aliano for The New York Times
‘I LOVED THOSE PANTS’ Fabiola Beracasa, in Yohji Yamamoto wool pants with inside belt, $750; jacket with deconstructed sleeves, $1,190; and Dries van Noten wool sweater, $550.

 

[ClassicFashion]

New Kind of layering

I really think it's about a new kind of layering than we have seen before...the palette is cleaner and the shapes are more graphic..its not the Mary-kate, boho layerinng thing that has been going on for a while. Here's an article I wrote that touches on this trend.

Source: http://fashionverbatim.blogspot.com/

Thinking Inside the Box
By Adrian Corsin

Say goodbye to frills and dainty frocks. Fall brings a refreshingly strong, linear look!

While this fall’s fashion shows sent down looks ranging from 70’s disco glam to 90’s urban warrior, all designers agreed on one thing: strong, linear, almost boxy looks come September. Gone are the dainty, frilly baby doll tops and the flowing, romantic skirts that have inundated stores for the past couple of seasons. Fall’s look is definitively more masculine, with tunics, grunge-like layering, and mod, linear shift dresses standing at the front of this new style frontier.

The message was loudest at Marc Jacob’s namesake line and his work at Louis Vuitton, which recalled his early 90’s, grunge-inspired collection at Perry Ellis. Models were sent down the runway in heavy knit tops, layered, scrunched pants, and mushroom-style knit caps. The effect was a ‘cocooning’ of the body – a sort of 21st century armor.

Muccia Prada was feeling a similar need for protection, sending down skirts and coats decorated with haphazard strips of long-haired fur. The models looks more prepared for entering an urban battlefield than walking down one of the chicest runways in Milan.

Celebrity’s are already grabbing hold of this new look. Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen were one of the first to sport this style last November, when they wore matching, short, trapeze-like dresses to the Miss Davenporte Trunkshow. They sport similar, mod-inspired looks in the newest Issue of US Vogue magazine, paired with tights and boxy, square toe pumps.

Kate Bosworth also channeled this style when she wore a loose, minimalist white dress to this year’s MTV Movie Awards. This month, check her out on the cover of Teen Vogue, wearing this look full on - knit cap and all!

What are the Hot Items for this Look?

• Tunics, in soft, muted colours, like grays, blues and blacks
• Tops/Dresses with Pockets
• Heavy, Oversized Sweaters and Sweater dresses
• Big, Chunky hats and scarves
• Leggings/Skinny Pants to balance the volume
• Chunky Platforms/Wedges

It’s a rough world out there, but fall’s newest fashions will keep you ahead of the pack! Think big, boxy, and bold!

 

[DosViolines]

source: nytimes.com

August 27, 2006
The Remix
Layering: Easy as One, Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven

Photographs by Jens Mortensen. Illustrations by Alexandra Compaint-Tissier/Art Department.

By JONATHAN S. PAUL

If you find yourself suffering from heatstroke in February, thank the Olsen twins: their layered-to-oblivion looks were all over the fall collections, including Marc Jacobs and MaxMara. Now it’s your turn. Follow the protocol below to making layering a cakewalk.

Above, from left to right:

1. Start with underwear gossamer enough to prevent overheating and overbulking. Apply Arrid Extra Dry antiperspirant. Araks cotton bra and panties.

2. Add blouse and hip-hugging pants. (You can substitute knee socks or leggings, but that’s considered cheating.) Jean Paul Gaultier blouse. Stella McCartney pants.

3. Put on skirt over pants. (Allow five extra minutes for bathroom breaks.) Dries van Noten skirt.

4. Add V-neck sweater and pull oversize socks over pants. (Sayonara to pedicure.) J. Crew sweater. Acne Jeans: Ambition to Create Novel Expressions Enjoy socks.

5. Put on coat. If you experience bunching and get stuck, lubricate sleeves with butter. Nina Ricci jacket.

6. Add gloves and shoes. (Note: consider shoes two sizes larger to accommodate pants, socks and swelling feet.) Carolina Amato gloves. Marc Jacobs boots.

7. Pull on arm warmers over gloves, add hat and finish with shoulder bag. Seek air-conditioning. Marc Jacobs arm warmers and hat. Furla leather messenger bag.