softgrey
flaunt the imperfection
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2004
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Move on to a new niche
(Filed: 21/09/2005)
Clare Coulson
Some women want to feel they are part of the pack; they like to shop in the coolest stores, to carry the latest bags, and to dress in of-the-moment labels. There are others, however, who go their own way, creating their own style by jumbling labels and fashion references, and wearing clothes that cannot quite be placed.
The big brands were once the most coveted labels, but for these women, something distinctive and quirky from an obscure designer carries far more cachet. Such individuals are a growing band, and are responsible for one of the most interesting shifts in fashion.
Last week, Harvey Nichols opened Demi-Couture - a slick area devoted to beautiful eveningwear from barely known labels, such as Giambattista Valli's extraordinarily glamorous gowns from his first own-label collection, and elegant, couture-inspired pieces from Martin Grant - one of Cate Blanchett's favourite designers.
"Vintage gave back that sense of discovery: the clothes hadn't been in a magazine. But the people whom we would call the 'fashion literate' are looking for an alternative to vintage now. Underground designers, or 'nouveau niche', as we call it, is the next step."
Many of the new niche labels share a worn-in feel: thanks to clever pattern-cutting and pre-washed fabrics, they look as though they have been hanging in a wardrobe for decades, not days.
Despite virtual obscurity, the Los Angeles label Wyeth already has a celebrity following that includes Gwyneth Paltrow, Drew Barrymore and Salma Hayek. The label's designer, Todd Magill, will throw any fabric - even delicate chiffons - through a wash to give it a worn-in feel. He then adds couture-style details such as silk-covered buttons to add to the precious vintage effect.
Currently, the biggest buzz is surrounding a trio of Danish labels: Malene Birger, Rützou, and Day, Birger and Mikkelson - next month, the last-named will open its first London shop on Sloane Street. While each has a highly individual feel, they are united by the kind of details that set niche brands apart:they all use interesting, unusual prints, they focus strongly on colour, and have a distinctive handwriting.
Miss Selfridge is continuing its reinvention with a capsule collection by Bella Freud, which will go on sale next month. The vintage-inspired range includes sheer Biba-style long blouses in muted shades, and crocheted mini-dresses. There are plenty of Freud's signature pieces, too - from baker-boy caps and skinny-leg jeans to curvy velvet jackets.
excerpts from here...
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...grid=P8&xml=/fashion/2005/09/21/efniche21.xml
(Filed: 21/09/2005)
Clare Coulson
Some women want to feel they are part of the pack; they like to shop in the coolest stores, to carry the latest bags, and to dress in of-the-moment labels. There are others, however, who go their own way, creating their own style by jumbling labels and fashion references, and wearing clothes that cannot quite be placed.
The big brands were once the most coveted labels, but for these women, something distinctive and quirky from an obscure designer carries far more cachet. Such individuals are a growing band, and are responsible for one of the most interesting shifts in fashion.
Last week, Harvey Nichols opened Demi-Couture - a slick area devoted to beautiful eveningwear from barely known labels, such as Giambattista Valli's extraordinarily glamorous gowns from his first own-label collection, and elegant, couture-inspired pieces from Martin Grant - one of Cate Blanchett's favourite designers.
"Vintage gave back that sense of discovery: the clothes hadn't been in a magazine. But the people whom we would call the 'fashion literate' are looking for an alternative to vintage now. Underground designers, or 'nouveau niche', as we call it, is the next step."
Many of the new niche labels share a worn-in feel: thanks to clever pattern-cutting and pre-washed fabrics, they look as though they have been hanging in a wardrobe for decades, not days.
Despite virtual obscurity, the Los Angeles label Wyeth already has a celebrity following that includes Gwyneth Paltrow, Drew Barrymore and Salma Hayek. The label's designer, Todd Magill, will throw any fabric - even delicate chiffons - through a wash to give it a worn-in feel. He then adds couture-style details such as silk-covered buttons to add to the precious vintage effect.
Currently, the biggest buzz is surrounding a trio of Danish labels: Malene Birger, Rützou, and Day, Birger and Mikkelson - next month, the last-named will open its first London shop on Sloane Street. While each has a highly individual feel, they are united by the kind of details that set niche brands apart:they all use interesting, unusual prints, they focus strongly on colour, and have a distinctive handwriting.
Miss Selfridge is continuing its reinvention with a capsule collection by Bella Freud, which will go on sale next month. The vintage-inspired range includes sheer Biba-style long blouses in muted shades, and crocheted mini-dresses. There are plenty of Freud's signature pieces, too - from baker-boy caps and skinny-leg jeans to curvy velvet jackets.
excerpts from here...
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/...grid=P8&xml=/fashion/2005/09/21/efniche21.xml
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i'm guilty of tht too . . 
...I also love Mads Norgaard
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) but at least they've found a market with the 'fashion literate'.
I guess it's offical now...
