Loewe Menswear F/W 2024.25 Paris

He does ‘twink but make it fashion’ really well but has been lost for a season or two
 
To me, Jonathan Anderson is just the best designer at a major brand right now. His vision is crystal clear, with a creative exploration for the brand (i.e everything beyond the clothes, the sets, the artist collabs, etc) that is always worth checking, making Loewe's top spot well-deserved.

This collection feels slightly less adventurous but there are many details I enjoyed (those massive belt buckles popping out, the acid green notes, basically all the leather pieces...).

It was fun to see Ned Sims on the runway too - surely secured the spot after that beautiful Loewe special for Arena Homme+.
 
Love JWA’s Loewe but this was not it for me.
From the clothes to the color palette, to the set, to the models, nothing worked for me this time
 
Yes…Non.
You see clearly here the influence of his own line. It does not have the elevated thing you would expect from him, even more for a FW collection.

Some fabulous fabrics of course but I feel like the most successful looks were the suits. Maybe making a full blown commercial collection would have been better than adding some unnecessary stuff and doing gimmicks.

SS2024 offered a statement. Of course men won’t be walking around with high waist jeans and chunky sweaters but we got the message and the commercial collection is not too disconnected from the show.

Here, I see a lot of pieces that won’t be produced, desired or worn.
But the good thing is that there are some solid pieces that are anyway going to work.

A lot of jeans on the runway this season!
 
I don’t know how I feel about this, and I love JWA. Torn.
Best - suits, knits. Good - leather, coats. Okay - shirts. Bad - denim pieces, accessories. Atrocious - styling, sweatpants, prints.

A really mixed offering, too much of JW brand bleeding into Loewe here, needs more chic and elevated approach. It lacks richness. It is too much his own obsession with homosexual youth. It is not what a Loewe customer is, and I say this as a Loewe customer. I don’t remember the for the past two seasons a single piece that grabbed me except the coats or the new tote.
 
this was a very good show! I admire the experimentation even if it fails sometimes. First good show this menswear season.
 
This isn't for me and seems like a miss, also feels a bit like his own line, which isn't bad, but this Loewe.

Side note, not sure who decides to invite the guests for the shows, but lots of attractive men seem to always be at their show!
 
I can't think of something more uninteresting than this teenage youth theme that fascinates some designers, especially now with the bland, colletivist gen z. Dior had awful clothes but at least the fantasy was aspirational.

I mean, why are they wearing coats, jackets (?) as dresses? And the ridiculous big ties. Yes, you can spot nice separates, the jeans pants, the striped polos, some shirts, the leather pants, but that does not make a good collection.

Maybe I'm stupid for expecting sartorial elegance from his collections idk.
 

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