Loewe S/S 2022 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[bc collector]

I take the first looks as an hommage to CdG's Lumps and Bumps collection from 1996, although the approach is a bit tentative here...
Like always with JA's works, you're left scratching your head whether to take this seriously or not (in fact more like the latter, as of late); everything feels experimental but unfinished, an idea not developed or polished enough, and between the utterly outlandish and the banal there is very little left to actually wear or desire. Yet in the past he's proved to be able to deliver in this sense.

 

[dontbeadrag]

I love this new direction for Loewe, quite futuristic, also one of the best collections of his for Loewe to date. This is extremely chic and well executed, the tailoring, the shape cut, the fabric, everything works. To me this is a total win, a complete redemption from his past couple of collections that were going into a rather unwelcome direction.

An alien/space art collector comes to Earth. I am so obsessed with this.

 

[THD96]

This is my favorite collection of this PFW. Love every single look.

He always capture the perfect balance of high concept and commerce with Loewe. With his own brand, sometimes the gimmicks are kinda go too far.

I love his take on glamour and elegant but not in the traditional way. It's always have that twist that make his Loewe standouts among the other corporate brands. My favorite looks are those silver and gold metallic, perfect balance between high fashion and wearability.

His take on conservative evening gowns are stunning. You'll be the most interesting to look at in the cocktails party.

This will be great in editorial and real life.

 

[helmutnotdead]

This collection made me cry a little bit. And to be honest, I haven't felt optimistic and happy when it comes to fashion lately. Everything is bland and it seems like nobody wants to pushes their boundaries anymore.
The thing with Jonathan is that when he's good, he's really good. This is the kind of collection that shows he's far away from his peers and competitors in terms of talent and understanding of the industry.
I'd love to see all the brands being inspired by the collection because it's precisely what fashion should be: experimental yet seductive. And I loved that he showed history without being ridiculously obvious about it - like all that lazy b*tches referencing the 00's with not even a nuance of modernity- . The proposition felt so rich, so joyful that I can't get enough: it's impressive when you look the show in motion and see all the details and the construction of the garments. I don't know how this can be any better because everything is so on point.
What amazes me is the fact that those soulless corporates allowed him to make such a daring collection. See, if you want to grow up as a designer you really need to have the corporation behind you being supportive. And it seems like they really support Jonathan because this exudes confidence which is such a weird thing to see these days. Loewe worked harder this time to make them realize how useless they are.
Absolutely amazing, the show of the season for sure.

 

[jeanclaude]

He wants to be Rei Kawakubo...and Issey Miyake and Chalayan too!

I was expecting to see Juergen Teller walking naked on the catwalk...

 

[dodencebt]

Ugh, I am so happy that others love this as much as I do! I was looking at the show photos and I caught myself smiling the entire time. I cannot describe how excited this collection made me feel; almost a Nicolas at Balenciaga feeling from when I was a kid and just discovering what real talent meant. This collection is exquisite in my eyes. I can't wait to see the clothes in editorials and on actual women. The cape jackets, the gold plate reversed jacket dresses, the sequins, the draping.. it gives me life.

 

[thiago:)]

wow, that's truly fabulous. I wish we had more shows like those.

 

[dontbeadrag]

Ugh, I am so happy that others love this as much as I do! I was looking at the show photos and I caught myself smiling the entire time.

Everybody must watch the video of the show on their channel, no excuses! I take back what I said, this is not the show of the season, this is one of the best shows of the past couple of years if not the decade. By the end I literally shed a tear and I don’t think I have ever done that. If somebody watches the last 7 minutes without tearing up - must be either heartless or blind.

This is it. Shut down the fashion week. Kim, Donatella, Tom, Jeremy, everybody can go fork themselves and go back to fashion schools after this show.

 

[Boeroe Sanka PhiloFashion]

If the Marni hypothetical client doesn't want to stay stuck at the same shopping address, she can now go to Loewe as well, even just to add some metallic shine to her surreal wardrobe. Will she dare to walk the metropolitan streets of the planet wearing this kind of stuff? I'll doubt it. Certainly not. Who wants to risk staying hooked to every piece of furniture at home or, worst, chez somebody else, or even to an altar in church ( because this sort of client needs to pray a lot). 20 years ago I could easily see the sense in CdG experiment. But here I fail to grasp any sense in producing this, just because there is right now no need to provoke this world with such a stupid bunch of weaved lies.

 

[TianCouture]

I don't want to love this as much as I do but it checks so, so many boxes. Art, Y2K but not, smart, confident, extreme but reserved, pastel but not twee, referential but not directly so, unwearably wearable-it's just so cool.

 

[Machinegumm]

Not sure, if it's some sort of Stockholm Syndrome that's been building the past few weeks, but I quite like this. The metallic pieces are definitely an eye-catcher for me.
Not too keen on the boob-windows, though.

 

[Yohji]

I agree with everyone, strong collection. I love the lumps and bumps references though the fifth look kind of looks like a boner. I wouldn’t be surprised if that were intentional, though.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I’m not getting it? It’s better than the last few collections, because it’s cleaned up a bit?

I usually am not one who is altogether bothered by repetitive shows, but this one really is like…ok so there’s 4 silhouettes here total, just done over and over and over again. It’s a little presumptuous.

Adrian Appiolaza is really way too obsessed with CdG. It’s kind of embarrassing at this point, tbh. A reference thrown in here or there is never a problem, but basing your entire aesthetic off the work of another is very strange.

I think I’m just getting tired of “art gallery fashion.” I know there’s nothing new under the sun, but I feel like I’m craving a fresh proposition for how women can, should or could dress for now. Is no one able to think outside the box? Stuff made solely for Instagram is getting very tired and meaningless as a concept.

 

[Vitamine W]

First collection this season that made me stop in my tracks. Some amazingly successful propositions here.

 

[CholoChic]

Oh finally I can feel Paris airs here!

 

[disco54]

Watching the show was not just fashion, it was a spiritual and emotional experience.

 

[WAVES]

I would love it even more if I couldn’t spot so many inspirations. it bugs me.

now, if I try to overlook thissss there are a lot of amazing pieces and it was indeed a palette cleanser to a rather uneventful PFW so far (minus a couple of shows).

 

[MulletProof]

I could not care less about this label and designer (and this collection) but love the humor in these shoes ..


and no humor in this but.. YES to metallic blue shoes.

[vogue.com]