Louis Vuitton Cruise 2025 Barcelona

[brandon J pierre]

Couldn't stop thinking about fall/winter 2023 while seeing the looks. But here the black looks feel different. It's sexier. I mean this dress is a total killer. I wish there was more black.

Not mean to be rude but is this a male? I think Nicolas is dying to design menswear, he can't keep himself from doing men's looks. lol

And Nicolas looks good too. Total daddy. I want to see him wearing his own men's.

I hope he leans into that sexier mode like when he was at Balenciaga his first couple of seasons I think it's time to step in that direction because some of these mixed ball gown short skirt things are horrendous

 

[brandon J pierre]

The look on Mona and some of the balloon like volumes reminds me of Romeo Gigli, and some of the tailoring echoes Rifat Ozbek just a tad. Shame that the 80s of it all has once again taken over too much. I hate those hats as well. With those flat shaped collars and dark lips I find it makes things look really 2-dimensional.

That lace dress is an eye sore as well. Probably should have been made as a two-piece/coord with the top having more cropped proportions. The waist in white is just so unflattering.

I am finding this too over saturated. But we also just had the pre-fall collection in Shanghai not that long ago...

I'm not sure about the numbers but I think the top houses at lvmh are showing extra shows now with dior Maria and Louis Vuitton are at the top of the fashion show game they're doing pre fall , resort, fall spring rtw an extra celebration shows it's out of hand. They're absolutely beyond dominating like a tiger over this fashion show space.

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

It's at the Park Güell, correct?
Is that the same venue as America's Next Top Model Cycle 7 Final Runway?

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

Oh Wow Lol
They shouldn't have shown in Shanghai last month, so confusing

I hate those hats and dark lipstick, remind me of Harris Reed lol
I hate the last section with those drapes, remind me of a bad Molly Goddard (not that she is any better anyway with stiff fabrics)
The middle section is the best from Ida's look to Julia, but remind me of Loewe (chicken or the egg first?)

 

[disco54]

Back in the early 80s , this Gaucho fashion was a big trend with those Gaucho hats , it was ugly then and its now too lol. This is very overwrought and costumey , something only Klaus Nomi would wear lol

 

[Creative]

Well worded and correct even though it's not really something I am into, his look. but it is well made and he brings in different types of interesting people as customers. He has limitless ideas as it seems even though some of the ideas can be a rather ugly . I really think he's one of those designers that sit down with pencil and paper and just sketch like Karl lagerfeld used to do

That’s not his process though.

He mainly browses vintage pieces/magazines and copies and reinterprets, same as JW.

Tbh, I’ve seen most of his pieces in fashion magazines from the past, like literally copies. I don’t have nothing against that though, because he gives them a new allure somehow.

 

[Lola701]

The Pietro Beccari strategy of holding shows for the prefall closer to the arrival of the collection in stores instead of the usual 6 months gap is definitely confusing.

Now they only have early arrivals of the prefall. The full collection will be in stores by the end of June.

This will hit stores in November. But they will probably do the usual small show or event in local cities.

That’s not his process though.

He mainly browses vintage pieces/magazines and copies and reinterprets, same as JW.

Tbh, I’ve seen most of his pieces in fashion magazines from the past, like literally copies. I don’t have nothing against that though, because he gives them a new allure somehow.

It’s actually a mix. He draws silhouettes then through the creative process he mixes magazines and stuff. But the research process part is really on Florent Buonomano.

It has always been his process but I’m curious to see how it has evolved.

His last few collections were about his own Vuitton heritage so I suspect there was probably more editing through styling and individual pieces….

 

[FashionFanatico]

Erwan Hascoat looked great! So chic and modern.

Loved the music much more than the rest of the outfits.
The Cordovan hats were way too obvious for a show in Spain imo.

 

[PDFSD]

That’s not his process though.

He mainly browses vintage pieces/magazines and copies and reinterprets, same as JW.

Tbh, I’ve seen most of his pieces in fashion magazines from the past, like literally copies. I don’t have nothing against that though, because he gives them a new allure somehow.

100% Assemblage - re engineered is his way of piecing together looks and pieces often hybrits of different things in one look , the sketch comes after the process not as starting point like KL.

 

[PDFSD]

The Pietro Beccari strategy of holding shows for the prefall closer to the arrival of the collection in stores instead of the usual 6 months gap is definitely confusing.

Now they only have early arrivals of the prefall. The full collection will be in stores by the end of June.

This will hit stores in November. But they will probably do the usual small show or event in local cities.


It’s actually a mix. He draws silhouettes then through the creative process he mixes magazines and stuff. But the research process part is really on Florent Buonomano.

It has always been his process but I’m curious to see how it has evolved.

His last few collections were about his own Vuitton heritage so I suspect there was probably more editing through styling and individual pieces….

Would love to see a documentary on him following the work process and Hedi / Phoebe , but would never happen they are not so pop and wouldn't want to expose their working methods to the world.

Hedi did one for ARTE ....Diors years but is was not a real documentary.

 

[Lola701]

Would love to see a documentary on him following the work process and Hedi / Phoebe , but would never happen they are not so pop and wouldn't want to expose their working methods to the world.

Hedi did one for ARTE ....Diors years but is was not a real documentary.

Yeah it would be good. Hopefully someone at LVMH encourages him to do that.
I think the only footages we got from him was from Loïc Prigent when they were on the styling process for SS2016 and I think France 2 did reportages back then at Balenciaga but it was for the news so it’s very small footages.
But nothing indicative of a particular process.

Collection ready to wear Balenciaga



Balenciaga: the Renaissance



Cristobal Balenciaga Tribute Collection



Balenciaga Spring-Summer Collection 2009



Archives of the house Balenciaga



https://mediaclip.ina.fr/en/3455173001030-balenciaga-summer-spring-ready-to-wear-parade.html



https://mediaclip.ina.fr/en/2776232001038-new-balenciaga-models-presented-to-american-buyers.html

Nothing intrigues me more than the process. I remember in the pre-social media era when I was still working in fashion and I think everybody in every studio was jealous of Galliano’s team when we heard that they were travelling for inspirations lol.

A lot of designers have never shared their process actually. Karl, Jean Paul, Armani have been the most open I think. Frida also somehow in her documentary and of course Raf and Olivier Rousteing.
But when we think about it, even Miuccia and others legends.

Even Azzedine drew a little bit even if it was just to save a creative idea.

What I’ve always been intrigued by was fabric development for example, which was something interesting particularly with Azzedine as he has worked with the same factory for years. I love the idea that a designer can infuse a sense of creativity to suppliers by just pushing them to develop new techniques and finishings. Obviously, Nicolas is known for his fabrics too.

 

[deango]

The Madame Butterfly soundtrack reminds me of Dior HC SS07

 

[reese06]

I want to love it because I love Nicolas and I have a bias because of past collections but those last 10-12 looks are just a tad more refined than an Olivier Rouesting offering. That black and white lace dress is a monstrosity and I question why that was not axed

I am finding this collection to be incredibly disjointed with many beautiful things bogged down by a sea of mess and ugliness and overwrought styling. i like when he does a more focused proposition.

Still the absolute best and master pattern maker when it comes to the cut and fit of pants. those looks that come after the beige fur coat are gorgeous and so "cool".

I wish he could work with a new shoe designer, at least for runway shows. His LV woman always comes across like a warrior but there is no danger or sex appeal and mostly boils down to the shoes for me. But that is also just me being nostalgic for what he did at Balenciaga.
this show is a miss for me.

 

[imjustken]

I love this look :

It reminds me of Cruise 2020:

But I agree with Frederic01:

I had high expectations when I saw the location being announced, and expected a lot more colour and vibrance given that it was being shown in an environment designed by Gaudi. Why was it so monotone?

I wish there was more color. The last few looks really lacked luster. Overall I liked this show. It didn't wow me but I got into the mood of it.

He could have at least paid tribute to Catalan Modernism in some way?

I don't know if it qualifies as Catalan Modernism but the composer of that song is Catalan:



It was featured in Chanel Couture show about Paris in 2017 and I can't get enough of it !

 

[brandon J pierre]

I love this look :
View attachment 1272992
It reminds me of Cruise 2020:
View attachment 1272994
But I agree with Frederic01:

I wish there was more color. The last few looks really lacked luster. Overall I liked this show. It didn't wow me but I got into the mood of it.

I don't know if it qualifies as Catalan Modernism but the composer of that song is Catalan:



It was featured in Chanel Couture show about Paris in 2017 and I can't get enough of it !

I'm sorry I just can't the skirt is a no go, the very worst of the 80s.

 

[reese06]

I'm sorry I just can't the skirt is a no go, the very worst of the 80s.

Or "Emily in Paris" cosplay.

 

[Creative]

Yeah it would be good. Hopefully someone at LVMH encourages him to do that.
I think the only footages we got from him was from Loïc Prigent when they were on the styling process for SS2016 and I think France 2 did reportages back then at Balenciaga but it was for the news so it’s very small footages.
But nothing indicative of a particular process.

Collection ready to wear Balenciaga



Balenciaga: the Renaissance



Cristobal Balenciaga Tribute Collection



Balenciaga Spring-Summer Collection 2009



Archives of the house Balenciaga



Balenciaga summer spring ready-to-wear parade



New Balenciaga models presented to American buyers

Nothing intrigues me more than the process. I remember in the pre-social media era when I was still working in fashion and I think everybody in every studio was jealous of Galliano’s team when we heard that they were travelling for inspirations lol.

A lot of designers have never shared their process actually. Karl, Jean Paul, Armani have been the most open I think. Frida also somehow in her documentary and of course Raf and Olivier Rousteing.
But when we think about it, even Miuccia and others legends.

Even Azzedine drew a little bit even if it was just to save a creative idea.

What I’ve always been intrigued by was fabric development for example, which was something interesting particularly with Azzedine as he has worked with the same factory for years. I love the idea that a designer can infuse a sense of creativity to suppliers by just pushing them to develop new techniques and finishings. Obviously, Nicolas is known for his fabrics too.

At Gucci under AM it was all vintage shopping, traveling for clothes and just copying the ones that fit with the aesthetic or do little modifications.

At V&R they had the most interesting imo, they had the team doing trials and trials of whatever it would be, super expiremental and super creative tbh.

JW would send somebody to some libraries (a few years ago, idk now) and let them copy some Issey Miyake and some different designers. Directly from the book they got the inspirations.

At Balenciaga under NG it was basically browsing in archives (magazines and drawings mainly) and then redoing them through moulage, exaggerating some things and stuff.

I do wonder how Phoebe and Hedi work.

 

[Creative]

I am finding this collection to be incredibly disjointed with many beautiful things bogged down by a sea of mess and ugliness and overwrought styling. i like when he does a more focused proposition.

That’s it. It’s like he doesn’t focus. In his Balenciaga collections you could always get a clear message. In his LV ones is just an over the top 80s styling with some manga-warrior inspirations. They are not very well curated nor edited, it’s like: let’s through lot of ideas all together and see how it looks.

Idk, NG has always been my fav designer, but I think his work at LV is quite bad. I think he doesn’t care about fashion anymore, he’s a millionaire now and I feel that when you get more money and you get older, the passion fades away and you don’t have the same energy for it (not always). I think he is happier in St Barths than in the studio, with his influencer boyfriends, etc. I feel that the nerd he was at Balenciaga disappeared, which is fair, but I miss it.

 

[Frederic01]

Collection ready to wear Balenciaga

Balenciaga: the Renaissance

Cristobal Balenciaga Tribute Collection

Balenciaga Spring-Summer Collection 2009

Archives of the house Balenciaga

Balenciaga summer spring ready-to-wear parade

New Balenciaga models presented to American buyers

Thank You for posting these @Lola701 ! It was so nostalgic to see him in the studio. I wonder if that team still works, or worked, with him at Vuitton. I spotted Natacha in one of the videos!

 

[Alquimista]

He said the collection was about dress up, not casual dress. That explains why it's glamourous but also heavy.

I hope he leans into that sexier mode like when he was at Balenciaga his first couple of seasons I think it's time to step in that direction because some of these mixed ball gown short skirt things are horrendous

I loved these. It's definitely out of his confort zone. He's been experimeting with volume for quite some time.

For example, the first two looks from resort 2023. That's something he never done before. That level of volume.