Louis Vuitton F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Kanzai]

Just kick that Pharell mfo and let Nicolas does menswear ffs.

 

[lookatme]

My issue with Ghesquiere’s Vuitton is that even 10 years later I just don’t believe in his vision for the house…it doesn’t feel like Vuitton. It’s a bit hard to describe, but I guess I could say it’s like this - it’s like he picked an aesthetic when he started designing LV and now he can’t ever really break out of it or evolve it because I don’t know if he really has a grasp on what his LV means at its core…meaning that if he were to venture out and try to do something different aesthetically here it would all fall apart. 10 years x 4 collections a year and it’s all blended into one sort of fuzzy and vague blur of a techy, oversized parka, a fringy skirt and and some big, chunky, goofy sneakers. That’s all I’m getting. It’s like being fluent in a language versus having memorized a few phrases.

Marc WAS Louis Vuitton. And in a similar way, Nicolas WAS Balenciaga. They spoke the language - they had their accents…but they were totally fluent at those houses. But somehow Nic’s LV has never really meshed, ultimately.

 

[nonfatgoddess]

I f*cking love it! For me, this is one of the best collections this season. The clothes are just timeless except for those trunk prints like what Mica Argañaraz is wearing. I’m just happy he closed PFW with such a really good collection. Nicolas will always be one of my favourite designers.

 

[Mathewthew]

@susseinmcswanny, Thank you for the details. It's too bad Vogue.com doesn't have details shot for this collection !!
I love it so much, because it reminds me of his collection from Balenciaga.
All the texture, silhouettes and the finishing screaming his glorious day of Balenciaga.
I am happy for him !!

 

[FashioNarrating]

Well, it's been 10 years of.. a lot, and I think this whole era of his work would've been more impactful if the collections were edited more succinctly. Of course, times have changed, and Vuitton is not Balenciaga, but he kind of went from setting the tone of PFW with his laser-sharp focus to presenting everything from boxy jackets to long flowy dresses and hit-or-miss experiments with volume in between almost every season. The ostentatious set designs and Marie-Amélie's styling clearly don't make it look more convincing either (did they really have to pair the "hairy" dresses at the end with neon booties?!), but more than anything else for me, it's Nicolas not committing to several - rather than 25 - silhouettes/ideas pro season. So there's my wish regarding his output in the upcoming years, whether he stays at LV or goes somewhere else - less, please, because it doesn't need to be that much if it's good.

 

[TerraVera]

i cannot with the furry gloves. i'm amongst the lone dislikers: i've never connected with his LV and still haven't. been waiting on a moment where it finally comes together and he always falls disappointingly short to me. at balenciaga, he sung arias; at LA it's been a cacophony of ugly and what-was-he-thinking-ugly. his taste in prints have been awful and the trunk prints here are no exception. those huge zippers and awkward combat boots of the past still haunt me today, like what in the world was he thinking?

it says a lot when the set is better than the clothes. that's his legacy at LV: great, fabulous sets and locations. but the clothes do not live up to the hype for me. it's akin to false advertisement: inside the pretty box is a lump of coal. where are the diamonds?

if this is the closets we're gonna get to a somewhat solid collection, then that's sad. a wasted decade full of turbulence and befuddlement, but at least he's held down a job for that long. he hasn't moved the needle at LV as he did at balenciaga. my main issue with him, a vet who should know better, is he is designing as if he's under his own name, not LV. there's a persistent disconnect between himself and the house/brand i cannot excuse or ignore.

this collection is better than before, but it's not great. it's still weird.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

The wealthy insta crowd is going to eat this up, prepare to see those bag like skirts everywhere. Not my thing but he knows his crowd. I do like the colour blocked jackets though. Just hope nobody s contractually forced to wear this at the Oscars this weekend.

 

[RaisinBoy]

The set was impressive.
Funny, i can’t remember a single Nicolas for LV collection. They all blur into one same 80’s looking nightmare.

 

[THD96]

Stunning, Nicolas didn't come to play. The best show to the season for me.
He's looking back but also moving forward. The collection is full of references but he doesn't sell you nostalgia. It's fun and desirable, those embroidered jacket are to die for. And MAS styling is also delivered.
The shoes and bags are going to be a hit next season.

Marc was LV because he created the fashion foundation for them, before him LV just selling bags.
I think we have to make a distinct separation between LV and Balenciaga here because the goals of these two companies are not really the same.

My issue with Ghesquiere’s Vuitton is that even 10 years later I just don’t believe in his vision for the house…it doesn’t feel like Vuitton. It’s a bit hard to describe, but I guess I could say it’s like this - it’s like he picked an aesthetic when he started designing LV and now he can’t ever really break out of it or evolve it because I don’t know if he really has a grasp on what his LV means at its core…meaning that if he were to venture out and try to do something different aesthetically here it would all fall apart. 10 years x 4 collections a year and it’s all blended into one sort of fuzzy and vague blur of a techy, oversized parka, a fringy skirt and and some big, chunky, goofy sneakers. That’s all I’m getting. It’s like being fluent in a language versus having memorized a few phrases.

Marc WAS Louis Vuitton. And in a similar way, Nicolas WAS Balenciaga. They spoke the language - they had their accents…but they were totally fluent at those houses. But somehow Nic’s LV has never really meshed, ultimately.

Balenciaga is a fashion company, their focus is still selling fashion, while LV is a luxury company that selling lifestyle. Fashion is just one of the departments of the company. Nicolas understands that the lifestyle aspect is bigger than the fashion aspect when it comes to LV, that's why his aesthetic is different now versus when he still at Balenciaga.
Marc is a showmanship that's one of the advantages that he used to make his LV memorable. Nicolas may used big architectures for his set but ultimately his show is quite intimate.

 

[philophile]

This is my favorite NG collection for LV so far and that says a lot, because I've always felt nothing but contempt for LV and everything it stands for. But this has some incredibly creative and unique bits in there that definitely scream more NG than LV. I will never understand the reason for him working for LV, though, particularly when he complained that Balenciaga sucked all the life out of him after he exited the house, since I can't imagine LV sucks it out even more and dismisses on a grander scale a lot of his vision and ideas. It just sounds like a counterintuitive position. The dream would be that he had his own label.

 

[Lola701]

The fact that Ghesquiere shows so many collections per year and we still for the majority see product on display in the stores that has little to do with the two main runway shows plays a large reason why I’m not interested in his Vuitton as much as I had been in his Balenciaga. It’s a similar thing with the store design, the menswear being done by another designer and the fact that the products probably selling the most at this house are ones that are not attributed to any of their creative directors.

As one of the industry‘s most visionary creators still working, it would have only befitted him to be at a place where he has creative control over every little detail of brand, similar to when Hedi took on Saint Laurent - And yet, the largest brands existing today (Dior, Vuitton and Chanel) do not provide that much influence to their creative directors.

I must say that what has been very surprising for me was to not see some silhouettes reminiscent from his early collections at Vuitton, precisely because what the « mass » buys is still the A-line silhouettes from those first seasons.

I think it can be frustrating to have a great designer who, after years of being the creative director of an entire house, is just now the creative director of a department in which the clothes themselves represent a small (even if bigger than a lot of brands) part of the whole thing.

I absolutely loved the vision Nicolas had for Balenciaga beyond the clothes. The stores designed by Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, the weird locations, the fragrance they launched, the shoes by Pierre Hardy. It was a moment in time.

I don’t think Nicolas will ever allow himself to give that much of himself to a house that is not his.

I have continued to buy his RTW for Vuitton. Of course I know which stores carries the stuff I’m interested in but I think his work for Vuitton needs to be separated from his work for Balenciaga.

We all loved Marc for Vuitton but his clothes were barely produced. I think it was produced in smaller quantities. They produced the shoes and bags in limited edition and what was in stores was what Julie de Libran and Peter Copping did…
But somehow we only had that amazing image of the runway shows.

I’m glad that Nicolas is at Vuitton, even more in this climate. The fact that the CD of the most profitable luxury house in the world is able to present this is necessary. We can’t only rely on MGC, Virginie Viard, Sabato De Sarno.

Creativity still matters. I love that sometimes I don’t like his work because it’s too weird. I don’t think I’ve ever found his work boring.

And in some weird ways, even if I have been told that the super-rich loves those very expensive pieces, I think there are enough pieces that would be easily translated in stores.

 

[perhydrol]

Creativity still matters. I love that sometimes I don’t like his work because it’s too weird. I don’t think I’ve ever found his work boring.

You hit the nail on the head (as always)! That's exactly why Ghesquiere is truly in a league of his own. Even if his collections are overstyled or difficult to understand, they're still challenging in an exciting way because, unlike Prada's recent offerings, it's not ugliness just for the sake of it. And if he's in a less daring mood, just like with this collection, his clothes are still strong and have a cool aura about them. They also don't scream corporate fashion at all, and it would be very easy to fall in such a trap at a massive brand like Vuitton (Ancora comes as an anti-hero here).

I'm impressed and I don't even mind the trunk dresses.

 

[bonnevie]

Not LV having a more extravagant setting than Chanel

 

[WeSniffInVipArea]

love the gloves and some looks

 

[Nimsay]

Ok after looking at this a few times. I can say its ravishing. Exquisite. NG at his best.

The proportions are all f*cking gorgeous. He really communicated his blouson vision in a way I can appreciate. The collection is full of unmistakably Parisian style. Amazing constructions, incredible fabric selections…even those printed trunk dresses place the pattern in an interesting way. Like this is the LV lifestyle. Living in a Zaha Hadid condo, wearing LV clothes, with LV furniture. Just foreign exotic unscrutible.

 

[FashioNarrating]

Not LV having a more extravagant setting than Chanel

In a way it makes sense though.. LV is the biggest luxury brand in the world, while Chanel in its essence is a couture house based on the idea of making chic, yet practical clothes, accessories and jewelry for modern women (not sure how chic Chanel is nowadays, but that's a different topic). Not that it really matters today, but I don't think Coco would've been thrilled by Karl making a spectacle out of it. Also not sure how much the grand sets are doing for Ghesquiere's collections - aside from sometimes swallowing the fashion propositions, they seem wasteful without other purpose than LVMH flexing their luxury-giant status.

 

[Drusilla_]

He is the best living fashion designer in the world. I know many disagree but it's my opinion. Nobody does it like him, they don't even try it. Nicolas is far above his peers, and even a "low key" collection like this one proves it.

I pity young designers for not wanting to be like him. They don't understand what makes his work so special, preferring to chase "fashun" moments that disappear at the very moment of their virality.

More years of Nicolas, please! I want him with his own brand, I want him to design menswear.

Wait he did two men's looks. Love them.

He's definitely up there, and imo the greatest of the designers still doing FASHION in the 2020s. It doesn't break through immediately or in the obviously-understood way, but he's still got that ability to sense what's in the air before others do - the ties he opened A/W 2021 with? All over runways two years later. The insane hip pannier silhouettes from Spring 2022? go forward a year and its hip-exaggerating silhouettes everywhere. I wouldn't wear all of this but I certainly want to pay close attention.

 

[Caffeine]

I must say that what has been very surprising for me was to not see some silhouettes reminiscent from his early collections at Vuitton, precisely because what the « mass » buys is still the A-line silhouettes from those first seasons.

I think it can be frustrating to have a great designer who, after years of being the creative director of an entire house, is just now the creative director of a department in which the clothes themselves represent a small (even if bigger than a lot of brands) part of the whole thing.

I absolutely loved the vision Nicolas had for Balenciaga beyond the clothes. The stores designed by Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster, the weird locations, the fragrance they launched, the shoes by Pierre Hardy. It was a moment in time.

I don’t think Nicolas will ever allow himself to give that much of himself to a house that is not his.

I have continued to buy his RTW for Vuitton. Of course I know which stores carries the stuff I’m interested in but I think his work for Vuitton needs to be separated from his work for Balenciaga.

We all loved Marc for Vuitton but his clothes were barely produced. I think it was produced in smaller quantities. They produced the shoes and bags in limited edition and what was in stores was what Julie de Libran and Peter Copping did…
But somehow we only had that amazing image of the runway shows.

I’m glad that Nicolas is at Vuitton, even more in this climate. The fact that the CD of the most profitable luxury house in the world is able to present this is necessary. We can’t only rely on MGC, Virginie Viard, Sabato De Sarno.

Creativity still matters. I love that sometimes I don’t like his work because it’s too weird. I don’t think I’ve ever found his work boring.

And in some weird ways, even if I have been told that the super-rich loves those very expensive pieces, I think there are enough pieces that would be easily translated in stores.

I'm agreeing with you from the Chanel thread to this thread
Nicholas to LV today is Karl to Chanel back then. LV needs him to elevate its creative image.
btw, I had thought that Marc's work was always available at least at the boutique on Fifth Avenue.

 

[Page666]

The fact that Ghesquiere shows so many collections per year and we still for the majority see product on display in the stores that has little to do with the two main runway shows plays a large reason why I’m not interested in his Vuitton as much as I had been in his Balenciaga. It’s a similar thing with the store design, the menswear being done by another designer and the fact that the products probably selling the most at this house are ones that are not attributed to any of their creative directors.

As one of the industry‘s most visionary creators still working, it would have only befitted him to be at a place where he has creative control over every little detail of brand, similar to when Hedi took on Saint Laurent - And yet, the largest brands existing today (Dior, Vuitton and Chanel) do not provide that much influence to their creative directors.

I think the fact that the VICs can order now direct when showroom is happening as consequence means boutique full the very elaborate and experimental silhouettes will become a thing of the past. it will be worn and seen in real by the very wealthy few and their friends and not by the masses. I hope someone decides its the right moment to do a 10 year celebration exhibition with Nicolas and Vuitton puts all the greatest looks into one museum to view at once...😋 or even further a 25 year celebration and put Balenciaga and Vuitton pieces all in one room....

 

[Page666]

loved the show yesterday btw