Louis Vuitton F/W 2024.25 Paris

[Phuel]

Just kick that Pharell mfo and let Nicolas does menswear ffs.

LOL So just more excessive faSHON to ogle at online that will never get produced like the womenswear???

 

[TaylorBinque]

Ok I need time to process but this is at the top of my favorites this season. Of course, NG is not here to make just beautiful stuff. He is pushing the tastes and fashion. What I love about his LV is that yes, his clothes are available at select stores but they are also translated into easier RTW and go along side logo basics. But his bags are hits after hits and the shoes are great. I always hate full-look styling but Lisa shows that with right styling you can look super cool in LV. And even if some of these clothes won’t make it to the store, I do appreciate the craftsmanship and skills of the atelier works. LV, at the end of the day, is a lifestyle brand with craftsmanship heritage. His works, some are ugly but they are made extremely well. Like that’s goddamn semi-couture. Kim Jones and Mary Grace could never

 

[Lola701]

I'm agreeing with you from the Chanel thread to this thread
Nicholas to LV today is Karl to Chanel back then. LV needs him to elevate its creative image.
btw, I had thought that Marc's work was always available at least at the boutique on Fifth Avenue.

Ahaha!
Yes, i think it was mandatory for his work to make it to 5th Avenue lol.
I think from the start the strategy was never to invade the market. So his RTW was there, in very limited quantities.
The frustration was that he made only clothes for the runway show so everything was always detached from that.

What I like under NG is that there’s a coherence between all the lines more or less.
As someone who comes from the Balenciaga days, I can have that wardrobe approach I had before.

I know what I want to purchase already from this new collection even if I don’t do pre-orders.

LOL So just more excessive faSHON to ogle at online that will never get produced like the womenswear???

The potential buyers (who can’t pre-order) would just have to go to Seoul and Tokyo to have the pieces « that aren’t produced » lol.

 

[Fulton St Critique]

There is nothing better for me than a look-back collection. His career has been phenomenal and in my opinion, he remains a leading designer in a field all but crowded with stagnation. Congrats on ten years NG.

 

[Phuel]

The potential buyers (who can’t pre-order) would just have to go to Seoul and Tokyo to have the pieces « that aren’t produced » lol.

In this fashion era, Vuitton is the ultimate pop queen, so of course the image and the merch is what sustains the brand (...wasn't Marc's Vuitton similar...?). People dismiss Pharrell without taking into consideration how perfect he is-- in this fashion era, for Vuitton. The menswear makes more sense, and more profit, associating itself as a high-end streetwear— at least in this current fashion climate, anyway. Vuitton men’s was never some fashion visionary brand even back in the golden age of fashion that was the 2000s. Pharrrell’s more of a brandname than Nicholas to the masses. And as much as TFS may not like to admit it, that’s whom this brand mostly appeals to. No doubt Nicolas is aware of this, and why his Vuitton input is so much lesser than when he was with Balenciaga.

Needless to say, Nicolas remains a standout talent. And this offering showcases his better efforts, but it’s still so excessive in his throwaway self-indulgence, funded by his handlers' limitless budget, that’s brought out the worst in him— rather than the best. It’s ike the people that were once stylish but not rich but now can can afford and wear whatever they want in their little rarified world, without a care, that have become the worst fashion victimz of all time: Nicolas is the designer equivalent of that now. He’s likely too deeply settled in the lap of LVMH to ever venture out under his own namesake now. If he does, he would be his Balencaiaga-self great again. Because, as solid, and as potentially-great some aspects of his Vuitton has/can be, it never quite reaches— or makes the efforts for, the highs of his Balenciaga.

(And you just know that come September, that monogrammed trunk dress TFS hates will be in all the fashion rags, with Carine putting it on the cover of her's, worn by Rihanna/Kim K/Cardi B or whichever mean girl Carine’s desperately kissing up to be associated with…)

 

[Lola701]

In this fashion era, Vuitton is the ultimate pop queen, so of course the image and the merch is what sustains the brand (...wasn't Marc's Vuitton similar...?). People dismiss Pharrell without taking into consideration how perfect he is-- in this fashion era, for Vuitton. The menswear makes more sense, and more profit, associating itself as a high-end streetwear— at least in this current fashion climate, anyway. Vuitton men’s was never some fashion visionary brand even back in the golden age of fashion that was the 2000s. Pharrrell’s more of a brandname than Nicholas to the masses. And as much as TFS may not like to admit it, that’s whom this brand mostly appeals to. No doubt Nicolas is aware of this, and why his Vuitton input is so much lesser than when he was with Balenciaga.

Needless to say, Nicolas remains a standout talent. And this offering showcases his better efforts, but it’s still so excessive in his throwaway self-indulgence, funded by his handlers' limitless budget, that’s brought out the worst in him— rather than the best. It’s ike the people that were once stylish but not rich but now can can afford and wear whatever they want in their little rarified world, without a care, that have become the worst fashion victimz of all time: Nicolas is the designer equivalent of that now. He’s likely too deeply settled in the lap of LVMH to ever venture out under his own namesake now. If he does, he would be his Balencaiaga-self great again. Because, as solid, and as potentially-great some aspects of his Vuitton has/can be, it never quite reaches— or makes the efforts for, the highs of his Balenciaga.

(And you just know that come September, that monogrammed trunk dress TFS hates will be in all the fashion rags, with Carine putting it on the cover of her's, worn by Rihanna/Kim K/Cardi B or whichever mean girl Carine’s desperately kissing up to be associated with…)

I totally get your point…
There was a interview in Paris Match where Nicolas was asked about his opinion on how he feels about people saying that his Balenciaga was better than his Vuitton. He simply said that he has evolved and that through intention and respect, his now is for Vuitton.
So of course, there are sensationalist moments like those trunk printed stuff (that would actually translate well into silk printed shirts).

I don’t think that he is thinking about Balenciaga as much as we do (or people do). And I’m not sure people will reconcile with his work when he leaves Vuitton.
I guarantee you that you will not find his next path after Vuitton as good as his Balenciaga-days.
Fashion history has proved us with Phoebe Philo, Hedi Slimane, Tom Ford, Helmut Lang that it never happens. A great past and a return does not always means critical acclaim.

I love Nicolas for the same reason I loved Karl: their willingness to push fashion forward. Their past informs their style but it’s not stuck in the past.
The Ghesquiere woman has extremely evolved. In his Balenciaga days, barely made flat shoes…What? 2 collections?
Comfort is part of design language now. My favorite looks from this collection are the two black looks with the beanies. They are extremely chic, modern, kinda Japanese but not detached from the Ghesquiere ethos.

His work is very controversial and I don’t think people will ever warm up to it because I don’t think people understand his philosophy, subscribes to his aesthetic. Balenciaga incarnated a certain vision of chic at a time but I remember that even his last few collections that gave a glimpse of what his Vuitton turned out to be, weren’t that well received.

I hope that he will keep his spirit to push fashion forward. Ok, I love when he just give us a fabulous pair of pant or a relatable styling in an attempt to show that « he still got it » but I’m fine with it. I don’t expect him to design like when he was in his 20s/30s, when he was struggling to keep his job at Balenciaga and make the brand profitable.

I hope for Nicolas Ghesquiere to be more like Karl and less like Tom…

Ahaha! Don’t talk to me about CR. I have made piece with her too. I still love her, still love her personality and her style but also her legacy but I simply hate work now. I said it, I hate her work now…

 

[LadyJunon]

His work is very controversial and I don’t think people will ever warm up to it because I don’t think people understand his philosophy, subscribes to his aesthetic. Balenciaga incarnated a certain vision of chic at a time but I remember that even his last few collections that gave a glimpse of what his Vuitton turned out to be, weren’t that well received.

Maybe that explains why I'm more receptive to Ghesquière's LV. When I discovered high fashion (for added context, I was 8), his weirder later collections (FW09 onwards) were the first that really stood out to me. I only really discovered his pre-Crillon shows recently.

 

[LadyJunon]

His work is very controversial and I don’t think people will ever warm up to it because I don’t think people understand his philosophy, subscribes to his aesthetic. Balenciaga incarnated a certain vision of chic at a time but I remember that even his last few collections that gave a glimpse of what his Vuitton turned out to be, weren’t that well received.

I hope that he will keep his spirit to push fashion forward. Ok, I love when he just give us a fabulous pair of pant or a relatable styling in an attempt to show that « he still got it » but I’m fine with it. I don’t expect him to design like when he was in his 20s/30s, when he was struggling to keep his job at Balenciaga and make the brand profitable.

Maybe that explains why I'm more receptive to Ghesquière's LV. When I discovered high fashion (for added context, I was 8), his weirder later collections (FW09 onwards) were the first that really stood out to me. I only really discovered his pre-Crillon shows recently.

Funny enough, I feel like Di Felice has recaptured that 00s Balenciaga energy at Courrèges, while simultaneously pushing it forward.

 

[disco54]

The set is great , but the clothes are mixed, but its nice to see that he is moving to more fluid shapes/flou. Those 30s style dresses with the fur mittens were the highlight for me. Though this was hardly a blockbuster

 

[LadyJunon]

LOL So just more excessive faSHON to ogle at online that will never get produced like the womenswear???

Yes.

 

[tourbillions]

I just wish he also did menswear. They should seperate their pharrel menswear and ghesquire menswear. It will break my wallet but id love to see how his menswear has evolved after being in LV for 10 years.

It is hard to want to bring back his Balenciaga in what he has created for Louis Vuitton. I feel like for Vuitton he created a woman who is more dressy and will be seen hanging out only with the likes of a Chanel women. But still having his own codes while his Balenciaga woman was a bit more casual and will look underdressed if she hang out with Ghesquire's Louis Vuitton woman.

 

[NakedAndAfraid]

It's hard to pinpoint exactly what my problem is with his LV. But like alluded to above me, his LV woman looks mostly interested in flashing their money and power. His Balenciaga woman had interests outside of money and power.

I guess it could just be the LV brand, and/or the times we live in. It just makes me uncomfortable as an esthetic.

 

[Caffeine]

My favorite looks from this collection are the two black looks with the beanies. They are extremely chic, modern, kinda Japanese but not detached from the Ghesquiere ethos.

These reminded me of MJ for LV w/ the Stephen Sprouse print collection (FW2006?). There were a few heavy knit cashmere outfits that looked so delicious. And I recall walking by Conde Nast office buliding one day and saw a lady with THAT outfit...it was so chic~
Look, I still remember it...18 years later

 

[lookatme]

These reminded me of MJ for LV w/ the Stephen Sprouse print collection (FW2006?). There were a few heavy knit cashmere outfits that looked so delicious. And I recall walking by Conde Nast office buliding one day and saw a lady with THAT outfit...it was so chic~
Look, I still remember it...18 years later

Fall/Winter 2006...one of my favorite of Marc's collections for Vuitton! The knits! The Murakami fur! The archless shoes! The Ciccone Youth soundtrack! To die for!

 

[philophile]

his LV woman looks mostly interested in flashing their money and power. His Balenciaga woman had interests outside of money and power.

Same here, I hear you.

 

[Nimsay]

What ? Not you all characterizing top tier designer clothes as somehow - not - being about money and power.

Like to buy brand new Balenciaga or LV you usually need at least one of those. You think hippies in their busses running on recycled peanut oil are thinking “oh yes this NG Balenciaga dress is the perfect statement on my life”. Like … those people on the West Coast all bewildered in their communist zone are definitely writing manifestos on the egalitarian Balenciaga by NG vs his bourgeous LV.

This is so detached from how people actually wear and consume designer clothes. It somehow applies these delusional morals on to Nicolas when all he did was design some clothing.

These parasocial relationships are like unbearable for me! Someone needs to study this.

 

[philophile]

You think hippies in their busses running on recycled peanut oil are thinking “oh yes this NG Balenciaga dress is the perfect statement on my life”.

Yup, that's me. Socialists can still like fashion, you better believe it.

 

[RaisinBoy]

What a showcase of a Peter Pan in a glass bubble, spending money on endless fabrics, producing clothes that noone wants to wear. Sad as Nicolas is a talented designer… but this is not possible…

 

[Phuel]

I totally get your point…
There was a interview in Paris Match where Nicolas was asked about his opinion on how he feels about people saying that his Balenciaga was better than his Vuitton. He simply said that he has evolved and that through intention and respect, his now is for Vuitton.
So of course, there are sensationalist moments like those trunk printed stuff (that would actually translate well into silk printed shirts).

I don’t think that he is thinking about Balenciaga as much as we do (or people do). And I’m not sure people will reconcile with his work when he leaves Vuitton.
I guarantee you that you will not find his next path after Vuitton as good as his Balenciaga-days.
Fashion history has proved us with Phoebe Philo, Hedi Slimane, Tom Ford, Helmut Lang that it never happens. A great past and a return does not always means critical acclaim.

I love Nicolas for the same reason I loved Karl: their willingness to push fashion forward. Their past informs their style but it’s not stuck in the past.
The Ghesquiere woman has extremely evolved. In his Balenciaga days, barely made flat shoes…What? 2 collections?
Comfort is part of design language now. My favorite looks from this collection are the two black looks with the beanies. They are extremely chic, modern, kinda Japanese but not detached from the Ghesquiere ethos.

His work is very controversial and I don’t think people will ever warm up to it because I don’t think people understand his philosophy, subscribes to his aesthetic. Balenciaga incarnated a certain vision of chic at a time but I remember that even his last few collections that gave a glimpse of what his Vuitton turned out to be, weren’t that well received.

I hope that he will keep his spirit to push fashion forward. Ok, I love when he just give us a fabulous pair of pant or a relatable styling in an attempt to show that « he still got it » but I’m fine with it. I don’t expect him to design like when he was in his 20s/30s, when he was struggling to keep his job at Balenciaga and make the brand profitable.

I hope for Nicolas Ghesquiere to be more like Karl and less like Tom…

Ahaha! Don’t talk to me about CR. I have made piece with her too. I still love her, still love her personality and her style but also her legacy but I simply hate work now. I said it, I hate her work now…

I’m not convinced that this is the best of him: It’s the… most appropriate direction for him under Vuitton, is a more likely reason why he’s designing this way.

We both despise nostalgia, so I don’t mean for Nicholas to be still marinating in his old Balenciaga vibe should he ever move away from Vuitton. I understand Nicolas’ not going back to the Balenciaga aesthetic and sensibility. I’ll clarify that by my expectations of him returning to a more restrained, a more careful/thoughtful, and a more precise and discipline approach to design and construction, one that’s rooted in the line of execution becomes more edited, and more intimate of an offering; that’s the essence of his Balenciaga. And a more intimate presentation— not these bloated ones of Vuitton.

HIs Vuitton is clearly an evolution of what he started at Balenciaga— just a much more crass version, accented by the required LV brand bling that appeals to the mainstream. And deliberately styled so grossly because ugly/awkward/quirky gets attention these days— not refinement and control. Everything is “popified” by way of Vegas-gaudy for mass consumption at Vuitton.

Him having his own namesake label, he would in essence, return to a more intimate, even more streamlined sensibility. Phoebe’s own namesake line is very much a more streamlined, more no-nonsense version of her Celine. Hedi isn’t so clear; he’s designing for these billion dollar corporations, so the offerings need to reflect that commerciality. If he had his own label, I believe his sensibilites would be very different from his SL and Celine direction. But maybe that’s me being too optimistic. (... It’s like if you were spending your own money, you’d be more careful/thoughtful/precise of what you’re picking up— as opposed to going on a shopping spree paid for by someone else, and you’re just snatching up things without thinking.)

At the same time, maybe I’ve become too cynical, too suspicious, too guarded… But of course I would expect them to say that their current offering is their true design evolution: I would say the same if I were heading a multi-billion brand LOL Nicolas is extremely versatile; he’s not a delicate flower that will shrivel away if he has to appeal to the masses. If he were tapped for The Gap, he would no doubt rise to the occasion. I’m not even a devotee of his— since he doesn’t design for men, but he’s not only a survivor, he thrives in these lesser times by assimilating so well.