L'Wren Scott S/S 09 New York

[Spike413]

NEW YORK, September 12, 2008

By Meenal Mistry

The gusts of wind coming off the Hudson and sweeping straight down 21st Street to the door of the Gagosian Gallery set a fitting scene for L'Wren Scott's Spring collection, named "Zephyr," after the Greek god of wind. "There was a windstorm when I was designing," Scott explained inside the gallery. She set herself a specific goal this time: injecting billowing movement into her strict, rake-slim signature silhouettes of skinny jeans; sharp Victorian-inflected jackets; and lean, curve-gripping dresses. That objective was reflected in this almost exclusively black and white collection's vaguely avian theme: tail-feather pleats on fitted jackets, featherlike tufts atop a pinstriped chiffon blouse, or fat white feathers jutting from the sleeves and neck of a corseted cream dress. Siren gowns had both wispy marabou trim and the gentle swish of a fishtail hem. A dramatic marabou cape looked as if it might just take flight.

The collection had Scott's typical rock 'n' roll elegance, complete with dolly-bird hair and tilted lace fedoras, the latter a collaboration with Stephen Jones. The stylist-turned-designer is now in her fifth season, and her message rings ever more confidently and clearly, as evidenced by numbers like a romantic black plissé dress with white lace shoulders and an almost whimsical "gloubule" lace shift.

To finish, there was a trio of white evening looks, though Scott—known for advocating 24/7 glamour—wouldn't categorize them as bridal. "They're just dresses to wear out," she said. After a final model lineup, the designer raised a glass of Champagne to the assembled: Ellen Barkin, Sarah Jessica Parker, Rachel Feinstein Currin and John Currin, and Scott's beau Mick Jagger, as well as those members of the working press lucky enough to snag a ticket. Parker gave her a giggly, girly hug. Mick's verdict: "I loved it." Enough said.

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[Spike413]

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[Spike413]

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[4n98]

lovely and charming!
I can found many gorgeous pieces.
the decadent retro vibe is amazing!

 

[Spike413]

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[Spike413]

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Overall I like that she's branching out of her all black pencil thin dress mold, but I have to say I think she handles dark colors better than light. Petrol, burgundy, blood red, black, ink, plum....they just work much better for her aesthetic.

Still, it's beautiful and would make a woman look gorgeous.

 

[BerlinRocks]

i think this is her first collection that i could really enjoy ....
the b&w palette makes me think of an angel and devil .... absolutely no idea where this image in my mind is coming from ....

 

[fashionable24/7]

I really like this collection. It is so wearable and I have found so many pieces that I want!! I need to start saving!

 

[Underage]

Beautiful collection!

 

[junegloom]

I quite like it! It's nowhere near groundbreaking or earth shattering, but it's wearable and chic. Nicely done.

 

[Bidwell]

Sometimes it is best NOT to know what a designer was thinking or spared the warbling pretentious themes given to their work.
Billowing and arian?? Not.
Sexy 80's rock chick, YES.

 

[helmut.newton]

Boring as usual.

I see Alexander McQueen and Chanel ALL over this. She's not very original!

 

[Zazie]

Sometimes it is best NOT to know what a designer was thinking or spared the warbling pretentious themes given to their work.
Billowing and arian?? Not.
Sexy 80's rock chick, YES.

My very thoughts. It's the same old body-con Posh Spice stuff, "Zephyr"? More like hot air.

 

[Naïade]

Second look in #3 reminds me of

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[Spike413]

i think this is her first collection that i could really enjoy ....
the b&w palette makes me think of an angel and devil .... absolutely no idea where this image in my mind is coming from ....

That's actually a really interesting point you bring up. It does have a very heaven and hell duality going on, and then with the occasional pop of those fiery red accessories with a clean white dress....I can definitely see why you thought that.

Thinking of it that way it actually makes me like the collection a little bit more than I first did.

I have to say though, I fail to see much McQueen or Chanel in this. No she's not an earthshatteringly original designer, nor is she even trying to be, but those are pretty random names to pick out...at least as far as I can tell. Roland Mouret would be a more apt comparison I think, since they're dressing very similar women.

 

[Miss Dalloway]

This is beautiful, i love the white dresses that cape is totally Chanel though.

 

[Inaya]

Spike, I agree, RM is so accurate, it's what I thought of immediately when I saw just the 2nd look:

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