Maison Margiela F/W 18.19 Paris

[Phuel]

It is simply a wonder that John continues to be as impossibly creative, imaginative and visionary as he was 30 years ago. With so many of the designers of his era that have either passed (McQueen), or slipped into anonymity (Montana), or seemed to have settled (Gaultier), these are lean fashion times. But along with Rei, John really is the last of the visionaries of the industry consistently offering new and exciting proposals. Cherish him.

Demna, Alessandro, Miuccia and the rest doing the techwear with lace and ugly kicks can learn a thing or ten on how to elevate basic normcore utilitarian with high fashion from John. As ugly as normcore elements also looks next to high fashion, he manages to enlighten the various design factions into such a fresh, impressive and unique cohesion that remains— and reminds everyone of the Margiela codes, and even Margiela-at-Gaultier flourishes (those skeletal jackets look so right updated for this decade from Gaultier’s late-80/early-90s era). So much goodness once carefully dissected from the masterful layering of the total look. The lessors resort to repeated gimmicks and sloppy theatrics, a master like John inspires in experiments. Not a note of pretension nor the ridiculous.

His collections are that jolt of electricity and life in an ocean of overhyped basics and lessors these days. If I had the brand of colossal bank account that could launch a label, I’d back him and convince him to start a shiny brand new label where he could really put his true vision to work— free of any Houses’ codes. Who cares about the name John Galliano on the back of a dress— it’s all about design.

 

[Nomar]

Never disappointed! This is such a visual feast and I love it.

 

[dior_couture1245]

As always...there are fascinating and wonderful clothes here. Always inventive and surprising. And the styling is better than usual. Glad to see the hair and makeup relaxed a bit.

You know....I couldn’t help but thinking while looking and this collection and watching a bit of the video (I couldn’t bear to watch the whole thing...it’s a dull show, tbh)...had this very same collection been worn on old Dior babes like Gisele and Carmen and Eva Jay, had it been shown on the mirrored runway, had it been worn with some fabulous stilettos...how fantastic this would be.

Fashion shows just don’t have any energy anymore. Bummer.

 

[Nymphaea]

I can't make any sense of it, but I can appreciate it.

 

[Benn98]

You know....I couldn’t help but thinking while looking and this collection and watching a bit of the video (I couldn’t bear to watch the whole thing...it’s a dull show, tbh)...had this very same collection been worn on old Dior babes like Gisele and Carmen and Eva Jay, had it been shown on the mirrored runway, had it been worn with some fabulous stilettos...how fantastic this would be.

Fashion shows just don’t have any energy anymore. Bummer.

YES! I'm a stickler for production value! The trimmings are just as important as the cake. I get they're going artisanal or organic 'we only want the focus on the clothes', but I cannot tell you how many times a Chanel collection won me over due to his attention to every minute setting detail.

 

[CholoChic]

You made me understand a little more the message of this fantastical collection: you cant live in the past anymore.

As always...there are fascinating and wonderful clothes here. Always inventive and surprising. And the styling is better than usual. Glad to see the hair and makeup relaxed a bit.

You know....I couldn’t help but thinking while looking and this collection and watching a bit of the video (I couldn’t bear to watch the whole thing...it’s a dull show, tbh)...had this very same collection been worn on old Dior babes like Gisele and Carmen and Eva Jay, had it been shown on the mirrored runway, had it been worn with some fabulous stilettos...how fantastic this would be.

Fashion shows just don’t have any energy anymore. Bummer.

 

[margielamike2004]

John Galliano is....and always will be....a master of his craft. Since is debut back in the 1980's....I honestly can't think of one designer who has come along...who can cut on the bias like Galliano can. Regardless of the bad publicity he received a few years ago.....I knew he was wayyyy too talented of a designer to simply disappear. As Phuel mentioned prior....Galliano is a complete....and of of the last surviving masters of fashion. Yohji Yamamoto also comes to mind...along with Azzedine Alaia.

This Galliano\Margiela collection.....isn't to my own personal liking....but I can appreciate what's being presented.

Although....it seems as though the collection are becoming more like a Galliano collection. Less and less like a Margiela collection.

I understand that every designer...needs to change and evolve....but I'm uncertain if these collections would be to MM's liking....if he were still the person behind the helm of his brand.

 

[margielamike2004]

Claude Montana!!! Oh my lord....he's a blast from the past, Phuel. Along with Matsuda.....Byblos....Jean Charles Castelbajac.