Maison Martin Margiela Resort 2015

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MAY 22, 2014
NEW YORK
By Nicole Phelps

Marion Cotillard turned up at the Cannes Film Festival earlier this week in a minidress from Maison Martin Margiela's Artisanal collection, densely embroidered from neckline to hem with multicolor buttons, crystals, and various other doodads. By and large, the label's new Resort collection is far less embellished, but the lab-coated designers in the MMM studios can't resist making their tweaks. A sweater is never just a sweater, instead it's a little pink mohair knit with detachable shrug sleeves. Jackets, as smartly tailored as usual, feature linings that peek out from lapels and sleeves, or entire second jackets that can be layered or worn separately. Pants were mostly left alone—why mess with a good thing? But skirts were a different story; one leather style was actually a vest worn inside out and snapped around the waist over black stirrup pants.

The MMM ethos is to challenge expectations. They created "summer fur" by quilting raffia for a bomber jacket, and turned tweed into a warm-weather fabric by weaving laminated threads. But if they're fashion intellectuals, it's not only about experimentation for experimentation's sake. They also like to have their fun. The girl who wears their glass-beaded backless bib and tuxedo pants on the red carpet is guaranteed to have plenty fun of her own.

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wwd

 

[crimsonlakes]

Love the simplicity!

 

[pen6693]

This is beautiful. The first outfit on post #4 is amazing.

 

[5 8 6]

Simply gorgeous!

 

[mspieller]

love it!

 

[GivenchyAddict]

Absolutely beautiful. Love love love !!!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Stunning! The clothes, the models, the styling, the photography, the setting...it's all gorgeous. I especially love that stirrup pants.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

Now this is just incredible. Every look is remarkable!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Boring as hell........

Everyone can design such a collection, right ? Miss, Martin THE ORIGINAL Margiela, genius and artist.

 

[softgrey]

when people complain that this isn't the real margiela...
i am just ...

this stuff is good...
really good...

and, frankly, they really haven't missed a step since margiela left...
they always said that it was a team effort...
clearly, much of the team is still working on it, so it;'s; rather insulting to them to say that everything they do sucks just because margiela isn't there to lead the team...

frankly- i think this is really lovely and i respect and appreciate the fact that they have honored margiela's vision since he left...
it's so rare that any house stays this true to the original founder's vision...
i have to give them props...

 

[Scott]

i dunno....this feels like stuff you'd normally and have seen from many of the archetypical popular designers i see from NY these days. and while i don't begrudge those designers,to me this just doesn't represent MMM's distinctive qualities whatsoever....even as much as its changed that's one characteristic i still hope to see continue onward and i see none of that imprint in this. last season was so much better...

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

You say it all Softgrey, it's "lovely". Since when MMM is about being lovely ?! Have you ever looked at Margiela's very first collections and fashion statements he made ? Obviously not....

When you're a die-hard MMM fan as I am, every collection you see since he left tears your heart. Because Margiela was never meant to be like this, it has always been about challenging rules and codes of beauty.

But anyway, why am I fighting with people who are just seduced by a photogenic boring lookbook showing a rip-off Celine collection ?I let you enjoy your Diesel collection. Meanwhile I'm gonna collect some vintage MMM on eBay

 

[softgrey]

^not only have i seen it, but i OWN and WEAR a good deal of it, my dear...
women have to actually wear the stuff eventually...

frankly- my comment was not directed at you at all...ilovediorhomme...
it was my first thought when i looked at the images of the collection because we've already had that discussion here ad nauseum...
it was just a coincidence that your post happened to be directly before mine...
i know you think you are being very clever with your little comments, but you clearly have no idea who you are addressing...
maybe you wanna buy some of my vintage MMM~?
i have an apron i can let you have for a good price...
...

nah- i love my apron...
i'll never let it go...


>>>i dare say that it bears mentioning that the original MMM customer (hi- that's me!) is no longer in their 20's and probably has a real job by now or kids and other responsibilities and wants to look stylish without looking like a clown...
they want clothes that are quieter and more subtle, and user friendly...
things that fit into their lifestyles...
rather than, say, a coat made of hair!
(that thing was so ugly i can't even think about it for very long- )...

it does feel to me as though the line has matured with its customer...
the original dna that MM set down is certainly there...
but it is tempered with age...and maturity...
it's restrained...which is definitely a sign of maturity...

anyway-
i think it's pretty clear by the continued success of the brand that most of margiela's original customers are still buying...
unlike, say - jil sander and helmut lang...
and i dare say, most of those people know what they are doing and aren't fooled or swayed by much other than their own personal tastes...

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

ThankS for your kind offer, but, I think you should take that "apron" of yours to clean the screen of your laptop and open your eyes on how miserable Margiela is now, my dear.


I know people who worked with Martin Margiela himself (some for more than a decade) and who share my point of view : MMM is not the same now AND what Diesel is doing is a disgrace to his name.

I never knew the intention of Margiela was to make people looking like "clowns". Well, you thaught me something at least !

 

[tricotineacetat]

It should be perfectly acceptable to find some charm in these clothes, no matter if they are 'original' Margiela or not... It's bread and butter staple clothes with some Margiela-esque twists, granted some of those trademarks have eventually triggered down into other people's repertoire's also but the same can be accounted to Yohji, Helmut Lang and even Rick Owens. I think Softgrey understands that these are not groundbreaking fashions to turn heads with but good and wearable pieces that can function in various interpretations.

Also, I find that people seem to be less hard on the new design team that has taken over for Ann Demeulemeester (of which the head designer for womenswear only joined the brand this season, just to send a valid argument to those that will readily claim they were 'hand picked and trained by Ann herself'), why is that? They did a pretty bloodless first effort and yet people seem to have been fine with the house moving forward without Ann.

 

[iclawhands]

I think it's tricky, because when you first encounter a brand and you're excited by it, that becomes THAT BRAND for you, and any changes in style, market, designer, voice are considered almost sacrilegious because it feels personal, that brand that you emotionally connected is being changed, who would like that?

But we have to remember that it's a constantly changing business, and to keep up, and to keep doing things like the Artisanal collections which remind me more of the old Margiela, they must think also about the modern market and the demand for intelligent-but-more-wearable clothes as well.

I find this collection to be calm, serene, but smart, I say well done.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I am a big admirer of Jil Sander's and a lot of Raf Simons' work for the house did not make much sense to me, especially his later attempts to investigate a more 'jolie madame' like femininity. But even at that, I must admit he managed to create a few collections that didn't necessarily capture 100% the spirit of Jil Sander, but were great in their own right (such as the FW'07 collection with it's cardinal violet cape coats).