Marc Jacobs S/S 2020 New York

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[GERGIN]

Quite possibly my favorite collection by Marc Jacobs since Fall 2015 and Spring 2011.

Everything about This feels very Marc Jacobs!

 

[libra]

WOW! I LOVE IT

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i love that cabaret inspired look with the top hat and yellow pants. i couldn't help thinking a bit of maggie gyllenhaal while looking at this, which for me is a good thing.

 

[TianCouture]

The Daisy Gamble collection. Obsessed obsessed with this. Just wow

 

[Lola701]

I love it!
A very beautiful collection from Marc....
While I find it too retro for my taste, he did something very clever. The 70’s for the most part were inspired by the 40’s and I like that it almost feels like he designed it like if he was in the 70’s and being inspired by vintage clothes from the 40´s.

It’s a joyful mess with a lot of desirable pieces. I could die for that shoulder on his suits!
As usual, full of references from Yves, Karl’s Chloe, Ossie Clarke, Donna Jordan, his own Taxi Driver inspired SS2011 and his SS1995 collection.

I love most of the collection but i’m not convinced by the Big gowns. It’s like « been there ».

This might not be his best collection but it offers everything needed right now: good quality, attitude, spirit and fun. And this is maybe his most commercial collection in a longtime...

This is what Alessandro Michele should achieve to do.

 

[Mutterlein]

At first I was like "oh brother, here we go again" but I had spoke too soon.

He's still on his clown costume kick but, if you pull these looks apart, these are some very serious clothes.

Lovely, lovely collection full of beautiful sportswear and fabulous dresses. Marc is at his best when he stops trying to be "with it" or pander to the kids and instead does what he does best: making old lady clothes look cool.

Love all the Antonio Lopez/Donna Jordan/Anna Piaggi/Saint Laurent 1970s/etc references.

 

[Marc10]

They're cute costumes. But what is really the point of this? Who is this for? What is the relevance? What is the message, the point of view? It's all pretty useless to me. Marc has really fallen in a rabit hole of eccentricity for the sake eccentricity. While it may be delirious and joyful to watch, at the end of the day he doesn't have anything worthwhile to say.

This feels like trying to bundle with Gucci, but Alessandro does it in a much more confident and authentic way.

 

[Salvatore]

The models having "fun" looked highly awkward which made the clothes look super awkward. It looked so frumpy. I really only liked the look on Gigi.

 

[magsaddict]

Collections like this really, in my opinion, dispel the myth that Marc's glory days are over. The humour, the references, the swish of the garments all work together. Does it look a little Michele-esque? Yes. I still think it's overall a solid collection, the clothes feel edited and the hats are divine. It's going to be a big year for hats.

 

[blackcherrified]

These are cute and fun clothes but they feel like 3 to 4 distinct unrelated collections mashed up into one runway show...

 

[dior_couture1245]

The clothes aren’t bad.

But it’s clear Marc doesn’t have anything to say anymore, unfortunately.

I watched the livestream and it was kind of insufferable. I can’t stand the phoney JOYFUL, HAPPY, FUN performance...it’s very disingenuous and cringey.

Marc in his prime was able to deliver good clothes in his shows but in such a way as to really make a point, tap into a complex emotion, capture a feeling in the air.

I understand the budget is low for his show production now, but that never stopped Marc before - he’s done a set made of cardboard boxes before!

What I’m missing here is a sense of recontextualization of these quite literal vintage clothes. It would have done wonders to have given the girls a uniform, simple hairstyle, maybe something a bit hard edged - like some sunglasses, some dark lighting with spotlights, a moody soundtrack...these elements go a long, long way in adding layers and deeper dimension to clothing in the context of a catwalk show.

At one point, years ago, when models were better and the mood of fashion was different, a show like this would have been legendary. But done now...it feels so forced and orchestrated. Kind of off-putting.

 

[Mutterlein]

The clothes aren’t bad.

But it’s clear Marc doesn’t have anything to say anymore, unfortunately.

I watched the livestream and it was kind of insufferable. I can’t stand the phoney JOYFUL, HAPPY, FUN performance...it’s very disingenuous and cringey.

Marc in his prime was able to deliver good clothes in his shows but in such a way as to really make a point, tap into a complex emotion, capture a feeling in the air.

I understand the budget is low for his show production now, but that never stopped Marc before - he’s done a set made of cardboard boxes before!

What I’m missing here is a sense of recontextualization of these quite literal vintage clothes. It would have done wonders to have given the girls a uniform, simple hairstyle, maybe something a bit hard edged - like some sunglasses, some dark lighting with spotlights, a moody soundtrack...these elements go a long, long way in adding layers and deeper dimension to clothing in the context of a catwalk show.

At one point, years ago, when models were better and the mood of fashion was different, a show like this would have been legendary. But done now...it feels so forced and orchestrated. Kind of off-putting.

I don't completely disagree. In fact, I don't disagree at all.

However, I will challenge you to look at the pieces and not the looks or the presentation. I have found with the last couple of collections that when I see them pulled apart at retail, they're quite good and really not lacking in any qualities from all those great years before.

The problem, as you mentioned, is the styling and the staging. Marc gets in his own way. It's almost like he's not confident enough to let his talent as a designer speak for itself.

And I think big part of the problem is Katie Grand. He is long, long overdue for a new stylist.

 

[Lola701]

The clothes aren’t bad.

But it’s clear Marc doesn’t have anything to say anymore, unfortunately.

I watched the livestream and it was kind of insufferable. I can’t stand the phoney JOYFUL, HAPPY, FUN performance...it’s very disingenuous and cringey.

Marc in his prime was able to deliver good clothes in his shows but in such a way as to really make a point, tap into a complex emotion, capture a feeling in the air.

I understand the budget is low for his show production now, but that never stopped Marc before - he’s done a set made of cardboard boxes before!

What I’m missing here is a sense of recontextualization of these quite literal vintage clothes. It would have done wonders to have given the girls a uniform, simple hairstyle, maybe something a bit hard edged - like some sunglasses, some dark lighting with spotlights, a moody soundtrack...these elements go a long, long way in adding layers and deeper dimension to clothing in the context of a catwalk show.

At one point, years ago, when models were better and the mood of fashion was different, a show like this would have been legendary. But done now...it feels so forced and orchestrated. Kind of off-putting.

Maybe the Marc you miss the most is Vuitton’s Marc.
Vuitton’s Marc’s work was just more elevated, more focused, more edited. The magic with all of that was that his work for his own house was somehow complementary of his work for Vuitton.

When looking at this collection, it’s impossible to not wonder how the Vuitton version would have been.

 

[dodencebt]

I think it's undeniable that there are great clothes here. But who are they for, really? Is Marc anyone's first choice for a pantsuit? Gown? Sadly, I don't think so. This collection, once again, exists in a void that is detached from real life.

I root for Marc, and I want his business to be more successful, but he really needs to get with the times and do a whole overhaul of his brand in order to sell. He needs a strong accessory offering (which hasn't happened in a long time) and a strong offering of elevated basics. He can still do whatever he wants for the runway, but the foundation needs to be there. It's just how things work these days.

 

[bc collector]

Say what you like about Marc not being in his creative prime anymore, but, hey, he does know how to stage a show and some sort of excitement around it - one never knows what the season is going to be about.
Truth is, both he and Tom are the only real designers worth watching at NYFW (even though another highlight for me was Oscar DLR too, well done in its own genre).

I find it somewhat refreshing that there are still some people out there who can tell the difference between a well tailored blazer and a deflated balloon - which is quite something in the depressing pool of amateurishness that NYFW (or fashion in general, alas...) has become.

 

[Lola701]

I think it's undeniable that there are great clothes here. But who are they for, really? Is Marc anyone's first choice for a pantsuit? Gown? Sadly, I don't think so. This collection, once again, exists in a void that is detached from real life.

I root for Marc, and I want his business to be more successful, but he really needs to get with the times and do a whole overhaul of his brand in order to sell. He needs a strong accessory offering (which hasn't happened in a long time) and a strong offering of elevated basics. He can still do whatever he wants for the runway, but the foundation needs to be there. It's just how things work these days.

Marc is a designer that is good at almost everything and I don’t think anyone goes to him for a signature.
When I buy MJ, I buy the fun stuff...It’s a real fashion statement in a way. It’s not necessarly the coolest brand but it has a casual quality that you don’t find in a lot of brands. MJ is the perfect place for anyone who wants an extremely well made and fun piece with a casual quality.
I want to own most of the pantsuits in this show but unfortunately, Marc is not the type of brand I would pay full retail price for.
It’s great but you don’t get the « I have to have it » effect that I sometimes had with his Vuitton stuff.

I was underwhelmed by Tom Ford’s collection but i’m Totally obsessed by his orange coat. And I would buy it full price!

Marc is the savior of NYFW but I feel like the buzz and the emotion of his shows is forgotten by the time we got to Milan.

 

[Mutterlein]

I think it's undeniable that there are great clothes here. But who are they for, really? Is Marc anyone's first choice for a pantsuit? Gown? Sadly, I don't think so. This collection, once again, exists in a void that is detached from real life.

Old, rich women. The apple of most designers’ eye.

And I think Marc had forgotten her, caught up in the hype of Gucci and Balenciaga.