Marc Jacobs S/S 2023 New York

[Marc10]

 

[avonlea002]

Looks good so far but I am already fed up with styling choices. Simple heels would be much better. These huge boots just take the attention away from interesting garments. I love when Marc references old couture. His endless reinterpretations of Rick Owens/CDG volumes feel tired at this point.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[MagFan]

looks like tribute to Westwood with her clasic draped evening dresses and platform boots Naomi fell from

butt bows returned, even last time they already looked like Dior HC FW 99/SS 2000 reference

 

[Drusilla_]

I've liked this turn towards silhouettes he's taken for the last few years, it's Westwood but I can see traces of 90s Marc in the first few looks and colour palette. Also really appreciate that his photographs usually show the clothes in side profile.

I

 

[THD96]

I like it, this is my favorite collection from him since his comeback. It's more realistic and straightforward for him.

I like that he toned down his dramatic volume and put focus on his draping and dressmaking skills.
Marc is doing Marc, he's never shined away from his love for other designers and inspirations. This is an homage to Westwood (with a hint of Rei) but still looks very Marc. This is how you do it.
I think the styling can be better, I think some looks are too busy, too many layers, and I'm tired of those platforms boots considering I'm seeing them everywhere right now.

It's a great show and I'm excited about him again. Marc Jacobs is one of a few names that still matters to me in NY.

 

[gallianostan]

those shoes really soil what looks like an otherwise decent collection.

 

[tricotineacetat]

After commenting and praising every second of Olivier Theyskens' patchwork couture outfits on IG, I can't help but think the pieces in this latest Marc Jacobs collection employing patchwork started out with a generous amount of inspiration from Theyskens - Well, at least he didn't do a literal copy as Haider did from Jurgi Persoons' work, so perhaps it's not that bad.

 

[helmutnotdead]

well it’s not like Olivier Theyskens invented the patchwork technique…

 

[tricotineacetat]

well it’s not like Olivier Theyskens invented the patchwork technique…

No, but it got me thinking that Marc's drive to create is definitely informed by looking at his peers, he's not shy to admit his occasional fandom of other designers and you can certainly see how that in turn influenced the direction he's headed with his own label at the time.

Like I said, I give him that, he manages to make it into something of his own, but it's part of the reason why it's at times been hard to pinpoint a signature for his design.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Down to walk around in that slouchy cozy silhouette. He is definitely excited about at least Prada, Galliano, Rick Owens, and Theyskens based on his instagram. I think this is a good example of being inspired by creators you love and making it your own.

 

[IndigoHomme]

Looks like an acid version of Rick Owens

 

[Lola701]

Good collection from Marc even if his work doesn’t bring any type of excitement or anything really to me anymore…

He is the greatest DJ of High Fashion. I see a lot of Junya Watanabe and of course Westwood…
There are some great pieces like the cargo skirts, the polka dots pieces, the knitwear and the patchwork…It’s a lot of great things but as it’s very silhouette and editorial oriented, I wish there was something really striking if it makes sense.

The styling is a bit expected…

I must say that for me, for all the extravaganza, the best moments of this collection are the simpler silhouettes. The twin-set, the peacoat with the skirt, the sweater with the skirt, the long, lean more commercial coats. It’s more grounded and more Marc Jacobs than all the homage around…

I would really love for him to do Dior. I really have a problem with this of clothes that exist in a bubble outside of Couture.
Is this still a Bergdorf exclusive? Beyond the editorial/marketing purpose, does this have any type of reality?

 

[thiago:)]

After watching Kingdom of Dreams, it really feels like Marc won't ever be able to hit again.

 

[Caffeine]

Good collection from Marc even if his work doesn’t bring any type of excitement or anything really to me anymore…

He is the greatest DJ of High Fashion. I see a lot of Junya Watanabe and of course Westwood…
There are some great pieces like the cargo skirts, the polka dots pieces, the knitwear and the patchwork…It’s a lot of great things but as it’s very silhouette and editorial oriented, I wish there was something really striking if it makes sense.

The styling is a bit expected…

I must say that for me, for all the extravaganza, the best moments of this collection are the simpler silhouettes. The twin-set, the peacoat with the skirt, the sweater with the skirt, the long, lean more commercial coats. It’s more grounded and more Marc Jacobs than all the homage around…

I would really love for him to do Dior. I really have a problem with this of clothes that exist in a bubble outside of Couture.
Is this still a Bergdorf exclusive? Beyond the editorial/marketing purpose, does this have any type of reality?

Or Chanel?

 

[Lola701]

Or Chanel?

No…
I would rather have realistic dreams…
LVMH would probably never let it happen.

Karl was in a special position to do all those things and I’ve never been that excited about that idea.

I liked what he did at Vuitton, I have some pieces that I love but I think he does great shows but sometimes it doesn’t t translate well in real life…The SS2013 Vuitton for example.

I’m still for Nicolas at Chanel but I also think he needs his own little brand where he can « express all of himself ». He does really great commercial clothes and I’m sure his Vision of Couture will be interesting.
I would have loved Phoebe but I’m not sure she is seeking world domination anymore..

 

[Not Plain Jane]

echo others:
nice collection: warm & textured
horrible (!) shoes

 

[Norden]

There’s something extremely hermetic about Marc Jacobs these days. He exists in his own vacuum and I don’t really think it makes it better. His fall 2020 runway has been a high note in his career post Vuitton. But even there you miss some kind of reality or interest to tie it into society. Maybe what I’m trying to say, it just all feels really irrelevant.

as said before in this thread, this feels like a designer remix, and personally I don’t think this remix is making me see it all in new ways.

by all means this isn’t bad, but we won’t remember this stuff in 10 years. He either needs to scale back and go a more theyskens route with humble presentations or display some commercial and public savvy again and go big. To me this is just not cutting it.

 

[Salvatore]

I actually like it with the shoes. It works for me in a weird way. I think with a regular heel or something other and it would not work.

I agree with @Lola701 about him going to Dior. I don't think it could be any worse MGC right now. Wasn't he going to go to Dior, but negotiations broke down or was that the situation at Louis Vuitton further causing his exit ?