Marc Jacobs S/S 2023 New York

[brandon J pierre]

Well i just love this show! the hair , the dyed denim ! the NYC punk styling by way of London. The twist dresses in knit around the bust are cool and fresh take on Westwood twist and knot styling. Twisting and cutting fabric around the body to make a couture shape.

 

[Phuel]

And maybe in a way he has retired (mentally) and this is just him having fun. Maybe it's just a marketing expense to keep the sales of tote bags and Daisy fragrance going.

Maybe the bags/fragrances are doing so well that he’s afforded the freedom to produce these recent tributary collections as a casual CV for CD candidacy for Comme and/or Westwood…??? It’s a much needed welcome if that is his intention, frankly— cuz it’s definitely better than whatever is being currently trolled at Comme’s mainline, and leagues leagues leagues better than whatever that Andreas person is making his usual mess of at Westwood. Like Lola, I find as an unofficial rebranded Marc Jacobs aesthetic, it's all so unexciting, reductive, despite all the couturey dramatics. But for Comme/Westwood, it works...

 

[Caffeine]

No…
I would rather have realistic dreams…
LVMH would probably never let it happen.

Karl was in a special position to do all those things and I’ve never been that excited about that idea.

I liked what he did at Vuitton, I have some pieces that I love but I think he does great shows but sometimes it doesn’t t translate well in real life…The SS2013 Vuitton for example.

I’m still for Nicolas at Chanel but I also think he needs his own little brand where he can « express all of himself ». He does really great commercial clothes and I’m sure his Vision of Couture will be interesting.
I would have loved Phoebe but I’m not sure she is seeking world domination anymore..

Yes! I still have some of his older pieces from LV I refuse to let go.

 

[Drusilla_]

Maybe the bags/fragrances are doing so well that he’s afforded the freedom to produce these recent tributary collections as a casual CV for CD candidacy for Comme and/or Westwood…??? It’s a much needed welcome if that is his intention, frankly— cuz it’s definitely better than whatever is being currently trolled at Comme’s mainline, and leagues leagues leagues better than whatever that Andreas person is making his usual mess of at Westwood. Like Lola, I find as an unofficial rebranded Marc Jacobs aesthetic, it's all so unexciting, reductive, despite all the couturey dramatics. But for Comme/Westwood, it works...

Marc for Comme?! I know he's an undying fanboy of Rei but they would never. Still love this show though, Marc has long been criticised for being dependent on styling/a remixer of other designers' work but his mid-late 00s stuff for his mainline/MBMJ was some of his strongest ever - he and the look he shaped were favoured by a certain type of cool young woman/girl of that era that brands wish they could have today. I'm ok with him taking on elder statesmanhood at the helm of his own brand, much as Heaven might make me cringe (it will never be MBMJ, the zoomers are welcome to it) I don't mind if it lets him put out collections like these.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ LOL And it’s a shame that they would never. i get that the very suggestion of someone like Marc— or anyone really, every leading Comme is blasphemy to some. But why not Marc working alongside Rei the way that Raf has wormed himself next to Miuccia? Except in this case, Marc could and would contribute something potentially interesting to the Comme vocabulary. With Comme’s immense archive and its inventive mutation of textile, Marc would be afforded a whole new playground to remix in. The two would create a dynamic duo (...is Rei even there anymore....???). If nothing else, at least an improvement on the trolling 2nd-grade pageant costumes that’s become current-day Comme.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

^^^ LOL And it’s a shame that they would never. i get that the very suggestion of someone like Marc— or anyone really, every leading Comme is blasphemy to some. But why not Marc working alongside Rei the way that Raf has wormed himself next to Miuccia? Except in this case, Marc could and would contribute something potentially interesting to the Comme vocabulary. With Comme’s immense archive and its inventive mutation of textile, Marc would be afforded a whole new playground to remix in. The two would create a dynamic duo (...is Rei even there anymore....???). If nothing else, at least an improvement on the trolling 2nd-grade pageant costumes that’s become current-day Comme.

Never say never.

 

[tricotineacetat]

^^^ LOL And it’s a shame that they would never. i get that the very suggestion of someone like Marc— or anyone really, every leading Comme is blasphemy to some. But why not Marc working alongside Rei the way that Raf has wormed himself next to Miuccia? Except in this case, Marc could and would contribute something potentially interesting to the Comme vocabulary. With Comme’s immense archive and its inventive mutation of textile, Marc would be afforded a whole new playground to remix in. The two would create a dynamic duo (...is Rei even there anymore....???). If nothing else, at least an improvement on the trolling 2nd-grade pageant costumes that’s become current-day Comme.

I don't even dare imagine Adrien Joffe's response to such a suggestion.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ You know, regardless of how I— or anyone else may feel about Raf being Prada now, there’s still something endearing and humbling of how Miuccia has made a place for him alongside her. Empirical egos are such a plague of this industry, and for someone of her stature to share the spotlight, and with someone that had seen his better days behind him already, is an encouraging thought going against the general trajectory that the industry is so ruthless and heartless to the has-beens.

That isn’t to say that their collab is one of pure loyalty and not commerce: I’m sure the outlet merch has sold well since Raf’s arrival. But the mainline merch plaguing the stores, is-- without an exaggeration, the most basic of outlet merch that the masses would easily snatch up, if money was no object. The recent showdown between Jake Paul and Tommy Fury promoting their next fight, Jake was decked out in head-to-toe Prada: The most basic tee, cargo pant, and workman’s shirt-jacket that’s the uniform of a local warehouse forklift driver— just all plagued with the Prada triangle… This is the standard of a bluechip brand in 2023.

 

[tricotineacetat]

In the end of the day, its a matter of totally opposite mentalities that I do not see matching AT ALL - Marc Jacobs self-centric celebrity and Rei Kawakubos well-known reclusivity and cerebral approach feel lightyears away from another. Added to that the obvious communication barrier that does not help to bridge such worlds apart. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had an understanding and mutual admiration from another from well before - She had the reference of his Jil Sander tenure to know this could work. But for a brand held so sacred by it's employees as CdG, I don't see an outsider working alongside it's founder in such close unison.

 

[Drusilla_]

^^^ LOL And it’s a shame that they would never. i get that the very suggestion of someone like Marc— or anyone really, every leading Comme is blasphemy to some. But why not Marc working alongside Rei the way that Raf has wormed himself next to Miuccia? Except in this case, Marc could and would contribute something potentially interesting to the Comme vocabulary. With Comme’s immense archive and its inventive mutation of textile, Marc would be afforded a whole new playground to remix in. The two would create a dynamic duo (...is Rei even there anymore....???). If nothing else, at least an improvement on the trolling 2nd-grade pageant costumes that’s become current-day Comme.

I suppose you could say they did collaborate back in the day with the Comme for LV collection in 2008 and CdG does a whole bunch of one-off collabs with a lot of brands as it is.

But Marc in the driver's seat at Comme long term, even co-driving with Rei? No way. And this isn't an insult to either of them, they're both massively influential and may admire each other but their sensibilities are way too far apart to make it work imo. I like what he's doing with his own brand even as it goes niche, you wouldn't imagine that, in 2008, he was what Topshop, H&M and Zara were knocking off to flog to girls (and I like both phases, it's the in-between that was not so great).

 

[Phuel]

^^^ As much as iconic brands like Armani/Comme/Yohji are greatly appreciated for still plugging away successfully with their namesake founders, their creative efforts are long past their once stunning, singular creative vision. I get that undying brand-loyalty is maybe strongest amongst the Japanese diehards than for other brands (to the point of fanatical stanning, frankly). So "never" seems more a reality than "never say never" (…unless @Mutterlein knows something we all don’t…)

Marc at Dior? I actually like how much— yet quietly, Marai Grazia has evolved her brand of conservative no-nonsense sensibility for the brand: The poison ivy green velvet draped dress of her recent Couture offering alone trumps any overwrought, overly-technical, overly-fussy offering from any other label— and that includes Haider's Gaultier offering. I get that it’s almost a knee-jerk reaction to dismiss her here @TFS, and she absolutely needs some effort when it comes to styling and MU. But I’ll gladly see her continue at Dior than to see Marc replace her.

Marc at Westwood? He would do wonders with the slightest of effort.

But the bigger miss is Marc at Prada. Instead of Raf's cold, unflattering, repetitive assembly-line aesthetic — with the most sickly, depressing color-palette to boot, Marc’s would have been… Just the possibility of the slightest nod to Prada’s absurdly gorgeous early-2000 era (especially the dresses-only offering of the A/W 2002 brilliance), even mixed with his recent Comme-esque wraps, and in all of Miuccia and Marc’s masterful eye for color and texture, is enough of a fashion revival.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

^^^ As much as iconic brands like Armani/Comme/Yohji are greatly appreciated for still plugging away successfully with their namesake founders, their creative efforts are long past their once stunning, singular creative vision. I get that undying brand-loyalty is maybe strongest amongst the Japanese diehards than for other brands (to the point of fanatical stanning, frankly). So "never" seems more a reality than "never say never" (…unless @Mutterlein knows something we all don’t…)

Marc at Dior? I actually like how much— yet quietly, Marai Grazia has evolved her brand of conservative no-nonsense sensibility for the brand: The poison ivy green velvet draped dress of her recent Couture offering alone trumps any overwrought, overly-technical, overly-fussy offering from any other label— and that includes Haider's Gaultier offering. I get that it’s almost a knee-jerk reaction to dismiss her here @TFS, and she absolutely needs some effort when it comes to styling and MU. But I’ll gladly see her continue at Dior than to see Marc replace her.

Marc at Westwood? He would do wonders with the slightest of effort.

But the bigger miss is Marc at Prada. Instead of Raf's cold, unflattering, repetitive assembly-line aesthetic — with the most sickly, depressing color-palette to boot, Marc’s would have been… Just the possibility of the slightest nod to Prada’s absurdly gorgeous early-2000 era (especially the dresses-only offering of the A/W 2002 brilliance), even mixed with his recent Comme-esque wraps, and in all of Miuccia and Marc’s masterful eye for color and texture, is enough of a fashion revival.

Ha, no I don't. But I've learned that nothing is impossible, only extremely improbable.

Having Jacobs work from New York with the teams in Tokyo seems like a very unproductive arrangement. Not to mention that Jacobs is a gaijin