Marni F/W 2023.24 Tokyo

[LadyJunon]

 

[vetements]

I feel like I am so stuck in the past for still missing Consuelo Castiglioni`s Marni than this, or any of this designer`s creation took over.

 

[penny609]

Not feeling this too much. I mean, it's far from horrible but something is definitely missing. No thrill, no goosebumps. I guess I need to see every look at a time to decide what to think but my first impression is rather cold.

 

[Drusilla_]

I feel like I am so stuck in the past for still missing Consuelo Castiglioni`s Marni than this, or any of this designer`s creation took over.

you're not alone, the handful of Consuelo-era Marni in my wardrobe are some of my hardest working pieces ever (actually wearing a 2013 winter edition jacket as I type). I loved the fabrics and cuts, it was wearable but still had that X factor, I just haven't seen that at the label after her departure.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Love the music. The ensemble is just beautifully poetic and emphatic.

The collection itself is blah and really unflattering in terms of cut. Nothing registering on the radar and frankly looks like a huge cash grab too. Timed well with the Kusama LV collection to ride that hype train. Also strong whiffs of Moncler with the puffers but it also isn't really that far off from their Carhartt collaboration. I'm just left feeling really bored by it all in the end.

Now, I don't know who he has ultimately swayed at Vogue, how many are on that train or how much they paid, but the review is an infuriating puff piece. 2 of the 9 paragraphs are actually on the clothes (very briefly on the clothes might I add...). I know Anna seems to have some favouring towards him, but bloody hell I already attempted with the Margiela show notes today.

 

[perhydrol]

I am actually surprised how much I like this collection. It's definitely not great at all, but it's such a welcomed change of direction for the brand which, thanks to the current creative director, has been associated with pseudo-artsy hot mess. This is just a parade of clean, wearable clothes with a hint of the old Marni in the patterns. The fit, however, could have been way better, same with the styling.

I wonder if there's some kind of pressure going on behind the scenes or this collection was designed under the influence of the Uniqlo collaboration, but it's suspiciously wearable.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I find it to be both boring and ugly. Wearable but impractical.

The show made me roll my eyes so hard. Risso needs to stop drinking his own kool-aid. He lost me with this one.

 

[THD96]

Damage is done to Marni by him but surprisingly I'm not hating this collection.

This must be his most established collection since his arrival. He put in some effort to designed something that you can wear and make sense in your everyday life (that is pretty much the spirit of Marni), and not just his typical parade of art and craft first-year student nonsense like the NY show.
I can see a hint of Japanese designers' influence here and there in this collection. Very Kenzo mixed with CDG.

I wonder how are his clothes performed in Japan, must be well enough for them to be staged there. OTB has been very generous with his ideas.
He talks about a new chapter, hopefully he means it. It's time to grow up and add a little bit of sophistication and allure back to Marni. That's what I miss the most about Marni.

 

[LadyJunon]

I liked everything except the clothes and Paloma.

 

[kikifoz]

I like that the clothing feels more polished than his last few collection of tattered rags, but it feels a bit like the new Marc Jacobs collections? polka dots, Pantone/primary colors, etc.

 

[jeanclaude]

Going to Tokyo...to show this?