i think this collection is quite good. not brilliant but you definately get a sense, with the clothes, models and styling, that you're not just looking at some fashion pictures i can see the gigolo influence or maybe a New York underworld influence? in a strange way reminds me of gritty American cinema of the 1970s (without the flares) i like the fit of the coats and trousers (the purple suit is especially lovely) and the bare hairy chests! Martin Margiela is a label for people who mean it. not just timid folk who can barely manage to dip a pinky toe in fashion. Margiela is for people who take a head first plunge and this collection is a good example.