McQueen Rocks
Make way for McQ, the new street label from our favourite fashion rebel, says Claudia Croft
When Alexander McQueen decided to launch a diffusion line, he didn’t just churn out a watered-down version of his main collection, or a range of logo tops and denim. Instead, he came up with McQ, a brand new label for men and women that blends a street-tough British aesthetic (studded biker jackets, zip-through denim dresses, lace-sided pencil skirts) with more whimsical pieces (chunky hand-knits and swirling capes).
“It’s got all the McQueen elements, but it’s also true to itself,” says the designer. “There’s a part of me that is very couture and a part of me that is very street.” No prizes for guessing which part McQ comes from. “The main line is more conceptual, this is more cinematic,” says McQueen. “It’s inspired by my favourite underground films. I love road movies, like Buffalo ’66 and Paris, Texas.” Music, too, is an influence. “London music, like goth and rockabilly — it’s the roots of the culture I was brought up in.” It’s also perfectly timed, in underground clubs around Britain, the rockabilly revival is in full swing.
Some elements of the collection — such as the bumsters and trompe l’oeil — will be familiar to seasoned McQueen-watchers. “We look through the archives, but I won’t reinterpret last season’s collection,” says McQueen. “I pick pieces that I feel are relevant.” A swirling skirt that first appeared in the 2003 winter collection is reinterpreted in denim. The cowl-neck knit from 2004 also makes a reappearance, as does a pair of trousers that was originally designed in 1998.
What you won’t find are garish logo T-shirts. “I can’t have people walking down the street with a big McQ on them,” he says. “It’s vile, innit? I won’t put my name over everything just to bring in millions of pounds. It would do more harm in the long run.”
Logos aside, the millions are already rolling in. After one collection, McQ already looks set to represent 40% of his business. McQueen loves the label so much that he is planning to return to the London catwalks with a McQ show next year — his first show in London since 2001. A McQ store is also in the pipeline, although there are currently no plans for a perfume. “I don’t think people who wear McQ wear perfume. They smell of the pub and a lot more.”
1. Denim dress, £481.
2. Red angora jumper dress, £311.
3. Fitted denim dress, £292, stole, £189, and belt, £90.
4. Brown-and-cream check dress, £481.
5. Blue floral shirt with attached denim skirt, £252.
6. Green angora jumper, £252, skirt, £481, and belt, £95.
7. Checked shirt, £427.
8. Blue angora jumper, £252.
9. Augergine leather jacket, £733, shirt, £144, and skirt, £289.
10. Cream parka, £1,083.
11. Brown checked shirt, £165.
12. Black jumper with bull’s head, £230.
13. Green leather jacket, £708.
14. Check dress £292.
All clothes by McQ, available from Harvey Nichols from mid-July; 020 7235 5000