Moschino: At some houses, joie de mode is not a trend, but a way of life. That’s the case at Moschino, where fueling fun through fashion — and then breaking the yucks down into smart, wearable pieces — has always been a core belief. Yet, within that philosophy, there’s plenty of range, and in the collection creative director Rosella Jardini showed on Thursday, she played down the overt jokes while emphasizing a joyful, feminine spirit.
The key look was a gypsy-Fifties starlet hybrid filled with bold prints, swishing skirts and bright white petticoats. These came layered, corseted and beribboned, sometimes finished off with charming sequined capelets and faux couture hats perched just so. There were ample digressions along the way, such as a waitress and matador, both ruffled up, and even a pretty Gibson girl in just her camisole and floor-sweeping slip. Some of these looks got witty animal appliqués, and virtually everything was decorated somehow, but seldom past the point of wearability. And in the midst of all the fluff and flowers, Jardini managed to work in just enough smart tailored pieces to remind her audience that Moschino goes both ways. Now that’s good, smart fun.