I guess Marc Jacobs was considered controversial in the 90s with his grunge collection for Perry Ellis (was it?). But today i wouldn't consider him controversial at all
I think Alexander McQueen was considered controversial back then
Today i'd say John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Miuccia Prada

Today i'd say John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Miuccia Prada
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