Rochas elegance
By Suzy Menkes
Published: March 5, 2009
PARIS: Back-lit, the slip of a dress looked as evanescent as a cloud. Even the semi-transparent pieces hanging beside it seemed so delicate that they might blow away in a breeze. Yet worn in light layers, as viewed on the opposite wall of the art gallery, the look of the new
Rochaswoman was elegantly Parisian.
The designer Marco Zanini, a longtime Versace studio hand, literally looked inside to find the beating heart of this Parisian house, famous for its fragrances. A white satin ribbon stitched in the lining of each outfit is the secret logo of a collection that the Italian designer intended to give women private pleasure and personal luxury.
"The highlights are craftsmanship - extravagance is not in the vocabulary of the new," said Zanini, showing the tiny details, from a caviar of embroidered beads to baby-fine smocking.
Following Olivier Theyskens, whose Rochas image was of a wilder romance, Zanini has turned to his native Italy for the handwork from Florence and the ready-to-wear skills of its owner, Gibó,to produce a 200-piece collection that is as delicate as it is detailed. But, aware that the modern world is not about revisiting the decorous "petite Parisienne" of fashion history, the new Rochas has an injection of masculine tailoring and of fabric research, like a cashmere and angora velvet.
"I wanted to break down femininity - not to make it too sugary and romantic," said Zanini, who is following the true path of luxury by exchanging ostentation for elegance.