Rochas is Making a Fashion Comeback

I say .... Jay McCarroll for Rochas!!! :lol::P

Nah .. licensing is VERY VERY tricky ... remember pre-Ford 80s Gucci with their crappy licensing ????? It may turn the brand very very cheap-o looking!

Anyhoo ... I hope they find someone fit ... in Vionnet .. there were some obvious choices and they did pay homage to the heritage ... in here its a blank slate .. oh and Rodarte girl in here would SO kick @ss!
 
Terrible choice in my opinion.

From Versace to Halston to Rochas. HOW did that happen?

I feel sorry for the guy anyway, since you just KNOW he'll get absolutely smashed by the press and compared to Theyskens and how he'll never be on par with him at Rochas.
 
I actually adored the collection Zanini produced for Halston A/W 08-09 - the dresses were stunning.

“We feel Zanini has the sensibility to produce a collection with a valid quality/price ratio that will have an artisanal flair,” said Penè.

Aka, they want Theyskens for Rochas but without the couture and the couture prices.
 
Rodarte for Rochas would be breathtaking, I wish they considered them.
 
^^Wouldn't it, though!:heart::blush:

And besides the fact that they'd be perfect for the position and it would 100% solidify their place in fashion history, "Rodarte for Rochas" just rolls off the tongue so gorgeously!
 
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I'm sorry, but if this guy was unable to revive Halston, how could he revive Rochas especially after following Theyskens????

It's sort of a baseless assumption but it's probably accurate. I have no idea what Gibo expects to make out of their RTW license, I do have an idea of what P&G expects. I feel as though they could have tapped a designer with a more distinct point a view, one that won't dissipate in the glamor of Donatella Versace or in the archives of Halston. I wish the best of luck to Zanini and hope he's finally found a place he can make his own. And perhaps he'll be able to make Rochas do one thing Theyskens wasn't able to... sell.
 
Designing a Gibo-owned Rochas RTW license shouldn't be any available designer's prestige, to be honest - certainly not for Alessandra Facchinetti, who would be best advised to launch her own line instead of having to trust her fate with owners that have questionable interests in developing a Rochas fashion identity. Certainly they wouldn't have tried if a licensing deal as that wouldn't have been served them on a silver plate!

The circumstances under which the house had been brought back are so different from when it was around for the first time and it doesn't communicate as a particularly stable or consistant story to build up on for the future... especially in difficult times as now, i won't believe that this could be a success story.

I agree. Does anyone even want Rochas back? What would it have to offer? It seems to me that many houses are being revived although there's not even much point in it. If there's already a problem with overcrowded fashion weeks - why do we need even more designers and houses? It doesn't seem logical in any way.

Either reviving Rochas will lead to awful fashion - or it will not sell. Possibly both.
 
it's obvious that neither Procter & Gamble nor Gibo hold any long-term interests in the Rochas brand name or that they would have any intentions on properly relaunching the house in the manner as, for example, Shaw-Lan Wang (the Taiwanse, private owner) did when she bought into Lanvin... another Paris couture house that had become greatly insignificant over decades, without distinction or recognizable heritage.

The short-term interest becomes obvious when one considers that Procter & Gamble (who own the collection rights for the Rochas brand name) sell production licensing rights to a second party, while on the other hand shuttering down own operations in the fashion industry, as they did when they bought Wella and with that, the House of Rochas. Procter & Gamble still own the Rochas parfum licenses which are turning profits on some markets - With the sales of the fashion rights, they can only profit from added (free) publicity.

Fashionwise, with those historical Paris couture houses, you cannot bring them back to the present and completely neglect the culture they have come from - if they shall have a right in today's world, they must stand for superior craft and refinement, a notion of the luxury that was for once only reserved to the world of made-to-order (houses like Balenciaga or obviously Chanel offer that sort of demi-couture product). Gibo stands for a different sort of product in the mid-tier designer segment, people like Hussein Chalayan or Viktor & Rolf (both of which are actually not with Gibo any longer these days). They can do 'american sportswear' as Zanini did at Halston but certainly not something along the lines of certain Paris houses.

Rochas has had this one single believable chance (in this decade at least) with Olivier Theyskens, whose work was maybe not widely commercial as in quantities and wide distribution, but in identity building, recognizability and authenticy - important factors if one's intention is to properly re-build a house as Nicolas Guesquiere was permitted over a way longer time frame with Balenciaga. And yes, with first hand information at hand - Rochas was steadily growing business and not stagnating.
 
Cannot say I'm too curious to see what Zanini comes up with- I don't like Versace, I didn't like Halston and I doubt I'll like Zanini's Rochas. The house has no identity and little name recognition. Can anyone even tell me what Rochas originally stood for, what set the house apart? I doubt it. It looks like they want free publicity for their perfume.

Unlike most other brands, fashion houses are intensely personal. At their best, they reflect the vision of their founder, passing it on to the clients. When you have designers coming and going, houses shutting down, starting up and shutting down again, there is no personal touch, no continuity, no credibility and eww. I wish they had just managed Theyskens a bit differently and kept him on, because his show for Nina Ricci this season actually made me feel sick. The whole thing is a huge mess, and it will probably end with Zanini getting fired again, and the brand being shut down again. For the Nth time.

Yes, I'm bearish. :wink:
 
^^I agree with Anjo and tricotineacetat...I'm actually really disappointed it's being revived.

Rochas has no real identity...it's not like Dior, Chanel or Balenciaga were before they were revived. To me, the only Rochas identity is what Olivier created, and to have the house revived so soon, and by someone who seems to have a more commercial design aesthetic...it's bizarre and disappointing.
 
Oh GOD......get a load of this........
Rochas creative director Marco Zanini will be taking a different path to Olivier Theysken in his new position.
Franco Pene, president of Gibo, says: "We’re not looking to generate editorial hype, because we’re thinking of a sensibly priced luxury brand that caters to the everyday needs of women. In other words, real clothes that are useful and beautiful. Zanini understands that we don’t want to be a status brand."
Zanini was chosen for "his penchant for daywear and the fact that he will be fully dedicated to the line without having to divide his energy with a namesake collection."
(frillr.com)
 
On the upside, at least management seems to have a realistic idea of what Zanini's capable of. As we saw with Halston, the critics don't love him. But I've heard that Halston's first season sold very well, especially in Europe and the Far East, and I interpret the words 'sensible priced' to mean 'entry-level designer', which I think is a solid business move.
 
I don't know!! Reviving old labels doesn't always make sense to me either, I don't pretend to understand the logic of people who think it does. It's those business types who think selling fashion is no different than selling soap...
 
I think Zanini is good designer. He knows fablics.
Let's forget about the past and waiting for march.
 
I didn't even think they were going to hire a designer and make this a "thing".
I thought what they meant by "licensing" was allowing the Rochas name to be slapped onto hotel robes, socks and men's shirts..
..you know, in the usual manner in which brands like cardin have sold themselves out.

:rolleyes:

oh well, Theyskens' Rochas is too deeply engraved in my mind. I'm sure that whatever follows, will be boring to the fashion crowd.
 
I haven't heard anything of him before, so I'm quite curious of the first collection. Only hope it's won't end up like Ungaro with Esteban Cortazar :rolleyes:
 

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